Yokohama Avid ST are going away

Allen recommended these to me, as I went searching, they are discontinued, tirerack found me 4 of them, all in different locations, so it is costing me a lot extra in shipping...oh well!
The first one showed up tonight, rear, 295 50 15...I am putting 245 60 15's on the front. Allen told me that he prefered 245's on the front, but that size was not being made anymore, so I should go with 235's. When I tried for the 235's, they found NONE anywhere, so just for the h**l of it, I asked him about 245's, and he actually found 4 of them in various places, so I got 2.
I am taking a chance with these tires because if anything ever happens, I won't be able to replace just one, I will have to switch brands and get all 4 over again!!!
I like the look a lot, and they feel real sticky!

I had Yoko Avid S/T's on my FIA for about 4500 miles. Great tire, very true and balanced real well. Great street tire, and OK on the track (but not a racing tire). I just bought another set -- found the 235's at Summit and the 295's at Tire Rack (sold my FIA and am building another .. hopefully ready soon). RD

I am running 295/50 15 on the rear and 235/60 15 on the front
but in the Firestone Firehawk Indy 500.

http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...9_2005_005.jpg

They look great, and your car looks awesome...very B.A.!!!!
i was looking at this tire but they were unavailable everywhere I went to!

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Originally Posted by davids2toys

They look great, and your car looks awesome...very B.A.!!!!
i was looking at this tire but they were unavailable everywhere I went to!

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Thanks.

This is not good if these tire sizes are not being made.

My Yoko Avids are great, but I'm sure sorry to hear they're being discontinued.

So here are a few pics of last of the YOKO's. I called Tire rack today to see if I could get a couple of extras for the back, "no supply at all".
If I wanted to get 2 rears that were possibly available direct from yokohama, it would be an additional 40.00 in shipping on top of their normal shipping.:eek:
Very tricky getting those compomotive wheels back on the car, no taper on the lugs, also had one lug that is spinning and will not torque up, I think the stud is actually spinning, are these things actually threaded in with LH threads perhaps?...anybody got any suggestions:confused: ?

I torqued them to 100 ft lbs, that is what my Stang is, so I figured that would be a good guess, does anybody know the correct torque?

I don't want to start a controversy here, but I talked to Compomotive 3 or so years ago, and they recommended 65-70 ft/lbs. on their aluminum wheels. That's what I've been using for at least 3 years, and I check them regularly with a torque wrench. They stay tight. I know others here say 90-100.

What led me to check years back was that I had one stud sheer off and another spinning loosely. It had been massively over-torqued by someone else, before I bought the car, which was built in '98. I ended up having to replace a front hub.

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Originally Posted by clayfoushee

I don't want to start a controversy here, but I talked to Compomotive 3 or so years ago, and they recommended 65-70 ft/lbs. on their aluminum wheels. That's what I've been using for at least 3 years, and I check them regularly with a torque wrench. They stay tight. I know others here say 90-100.

What led me to check years back was that I had one stud sheer off and another spinning loosely. It had been massively over-torqued by someone else, before I bought the car, which was built in '98. I ended up having to replace a front hub.

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No controversy at all, I want the correct info so i can treat my baby the best i can!
As I said, I do have one spinning stud in the front that I cannot torque, do you know if this stud is pressed in , or screwed in with LH threads...it does have an Alllen head! If it is scewed in, i'm thinking I could back it off with vice grips (carefully), red locktight it in , and then try torquing it again.
Any other opinions or fact on this torque spec?

Torque is not a one size fits all type or situation. Tensile strength, fastner size etc all come into play. Having the same studs (1/2 220,000 psi) all the way around, I torque between 75-85.

Take your loose stud out, clean the stud and the hole (non-chlorinated brake cleaner works well) lock tight red and torque to 77 ft-lbs (double check with wilwood but seems to me that is the spec for torque), of course if you aren't working with wilwood, this may be different!

Actually I think there where 170,000 PSI... but either way, those numbers where what I got from wilwood and jag. I just crank em down to 80 and forget it. And, I always use anti seize on the studs when bolting the wheels on. Seems to me for a 220,000 1/2 stud the numbers around 100 ft-lbs are about right.

is right, don,t over tighten on aluminum rims. Tire places have ruined standard studs on park avenues for me over the years, and they ain,t easy to get out sometimes.Had stud break off on rear of cobra-take chisel cut off back flange and screw it out counter.But you said front, don,t rem.,anyway ,was looking at yoko tires for next buy, well, reckon somewhere else.Will-alabama

In this case, with the aluminum rims, I'd go with Clay's numbers provided by the manufacturer. However, in the absence of information from an OEM on a part, the SAE torque numbers will steer you right. Included is a link to a page with the chart.

If you have a factory service manual for an older model car, it will sometimes have the SAE chart as an appendix. They'll have a note somewhere to the effect that: "When torque value is not supplied in this manual for a specific fastener, refer to the SAE specs herein." It's a handy piece of info.

http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/specs/bolts/SAE_bolts.html

Simply put, the point of torquing the bolt is to either elastically compress the material of the parts being clamped or elastically stretch the material in the bolt, either of which will serve to put the bolt in tension, thus keeping the assembly together.

So many factors can cause torque numbers to vary (lube on the threads, lube on the underside of the bolt head, gasket sealer, corrosion, etc.) that many have dropped torque in favor of actually measuring the bolt elongation. Or, in the case of OEM's, going to "torque-to-yield" bolts, particularly on headbolts. In other words, you tighten the bolt beyond the point where it will spring back to it's original length; once you pass that point, the clamping force will not increase, thus all the headbolts will have a nearly identical clamping force, reducing the chances of warpage and head gasket leaks. (Once a TTY headbolt has been tightened to spec, it goes into the scrap bin when you take it loose. Generally can't reuse them, though some people get away with it at times.)

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Originally Posted by JeepSnake

In this case, with the aluminum rims, I'd go with Clay's numbers provided by the manufacturer. However, in the absence of information from an OEM on a part, the SAE torque numbers will steer you right. Included is a link to a page with the chart.

If you have a factory service manual for an older model car, it will sometimes have the SAE chart as an appendix. They'll have a note somewhere to the effect that: "When torque value is not supplied in this manual for a specific fastener, refer to the SAE specs herein." It's a handy piece of info.

http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/specs/bolts/SAE_bolts.html

Simply put, the point of torquing the bolt is to either elastically compress the material of the parts being clamped or elastically stretch the material in the bolt, either of which will serve to put the bolt in tension, thus keeping the assembly together.

So many factors can cause torque numbers to vary (lube on the threads, lube on the underside of the bolt head, gasket sealer, corrosion, etc.) that many have dropped torque in favor of actually measuring the bolt elongation. Or, in the case of OEM's, going to "torque-to-yield" bolts, particularly on headbolts. In other words, you tighten the bolt beyond the point where it will spring back to it's original length; once you pass that point, the clamping force will not increase, thus all the headbolts will have a nearly identical clamping force, reducing the chances of warpage and head gasket leaks. (Once a TTY headbolt has been tightened to spec, it goes into the scrap bin when you take it loose. Generally can't reuse them, though some people get away with it at times.)

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Thanks for the link. All I have to do is figure out what I have for studs.
Is there a service manual for our Cobras, sure wiould make things much easier!

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Originally Posted by rdorman

Torque is not a one size fits all type or situation. Tensile strength, fastner size etc all come into play. Having the same studs (1/2 220,000 psi) all the way around, I torque between 75-85.

Take your loose stud out, clean the stud and the hole (non-chlorinated brake cleaner works well) lock tight red and torque to 77 ft-lbs (double check with wilwood but seems to me that is the spec for torque), of course if you aren't working with wilwood, this may be different!

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How would I know I have wilwood?
Is taking the stud out a big process?
I was thinking of using loctite 680, it is supposed to be much stronger than 671, and made for slip fits, which is kind of what it is if the threads are stripped!
Also a little worried about heat in that area, if the loctite was to fail down the road , and it was Torque down...you would have a real situation getting that lug OFF!
680 is also suppose to be less sensitive to heat.

Just looking at them you should be able to tell if they are wilwood. OEM studs are often pressed in and not threaded in. Red will work fine. The studs on my wilwood rotors are all safety wired so if you have one that is spinning, you may have an OEM style rotor/hub in which case if the stud is spinning, it is buggered and you should replace it. The confusing part is that it has an allen head so that would seem to indicate that it is threaded in. You will just have to get in there and look!

Well After Hearing That 15" Tires Are Getting Harder To Find .i Call Yokohama Dist. In California Spoke To A Sells Rep .they Advise That Yohahama Avids Tires Where Discontinue So I Ask To See If Any Body Had Them .they Check With Some Warehouses And Sure Enough I Was Able To Purchase The Tire Going Thru Tire Rack . Hope This Helps ,garcia P.s If You Call Tire Rack Ask To Talk To Donna She Great Help . 295x50x15 And 245x60x15 Delivered.

Did anyone ask if they are making a replacement tire for the same application:(?