Header flange gasket

Any thoughts (pro or con) regarding using copper header flange gaskets?? Blew my old composite gasket out today at Willow Springs.

Probably just fine.... but the Weaver's only used Red, high heat, RTV silicone on their builds and it works fine.

Mark

We use RTV where the header and side pipe bolt together, we use Mr Gasket composite gaskets at the heads.

Alan

OK...confession and lesson learned. Got under the car today and realized that the last time I had the pipes off I used some of the dead soft aluminum gaskets at the collector.(Never had any problems at the head). Alan, I have had the pipes on and off several times on my car which is why I opted not to use the RTV. The lesson is that I was not vigilant in keeping the bolts tight at the the collector and developed what probably started as a pin hole leak which eventually blew the entire gasket out. Almost a relief since it sounded like I was having a detonation problem (again) under load. The drivers side (which was good and tight) shows no damage/signs of leakage.

everyone neeeds to check their header and sidepipe flange bolts from time to time, they do have a tendancy to loosen up.

Hi Phil,

I blew both of my header gaskets out a year apart. Because mine are so hard to get at (FE), I decided I would try the copper gaskets rather than the composites. The RTV just won't work for me because of the tight working conditions - I would have that red gooey crap all over me and the motor (although I did use it on the collectors). They have been on a couple of years now and no issues. I tighten everything up twice a year just to be safe.

Good luck.

Hi young Phil! Hope you still have your prop beanie. Alan....now that I've got about seven years and 20K miles on the car it's probably time for me to finish some of the wrap up work on the car. Question. On the front suspension crossmember there is a fore and aft hole for routing the lower radiator hose through the chassis. Do you have a part# or source for an insulating grommet for that hole??

My paper gaskets between the headers and heads burned out and I bought a set of copper gaskets. The problem with them was the openings were oval and not square like my heads. So instead of filing to make square, I searched around and found a set of Holley 2 layer thickness aluminum gaskets with square holes that lined up perfect with my trick flow heads. I'll get the part number tonight and post tomorrow. I do have to check to make sure tight ever so often. Used red RTV where headers meet collector. No problems.
Bob

My problem is with the collector gaskets....never had an issue with the head to header gaskets. I'm using Edelbrock Aluminum Cleveland heads.

For anyone interested, that header gasket is a Real-Seal Flow Tech Composite Multi-Layer Dead Soft Aluminum Reuseable Exhault Gasket Part No. 99253FLT for small block Ford 1.5" Sq. Purchased it through Mr. Gasket.
Bob

I think alot of people have had this issue. It was explained, by a mechanic smarter than me, that once you install the new header gaskets (good and tight) your engine needs to go through at least two heat cycles before it is truely tight and not going to leak exhaust. A heat cycle (to me) is going up to full engine temperature (160 degrees ) and back to cold to the touch. This is were most people mess up - this process takes two days. Be vigilant and your reward is no backfires or swoosh noises - just pure pipes. My two favorite things (sound-wise) are to listen the roar of the sidepipes and the ticking of the solid lifters. So basic, so cool. Do this twice - tightening the bolts after each cycle, and they do turn tigher each time. That's what has worked for Thunder and me.

am i the only one who does not use gaskets or RTV at the collector flange. After multiple blow outs and leaks i just cleaned up the mating surfaces and tightened the crap out of the bolts. no apparent leaks!