harness routing length

I have read alot of info relating to the wiring routing, fuse box / msd placement and dash hole locations. does any of the custom routing make it necessary to lengthen any of the existing harness or is there enough surplus wiring within the original harness to route under, over, across or through any item need be to properly hide as much as possibe. I'll be drilling the dash as high up and as far outwards as possible to route unseen in the top of the inner fenders. I'm like most of you in the fact that the less wires that are visible, the better. i just didn't know if there was plenty of length with all runs of the harness?

any pro's or con's to mounting the battery on the passenger side to compensate for the drivers weight. I haven't took a close look yet, but would the gas fill tube prevent the battery from being placed on that side, or would it not be advisable having gas fumes within inches of a battery?
thanks,
Eddie

Never had any issue with the length of the harness - it's long enough to reach all destinations without having to add anything to the package. I did add relays to the headlight circuit later on, which meant adding some wire to the harness as power leg. But no issues at all with the length.

On the other hand, while I'm fuzzy about room for the battery under the fill tube, I'm pretty sure you might have some trouble with this. No doubt you can get creative with the fill tubing, but as delivered it seems to me that there just won't be enough room under the tube to put a battery in there.


-Roger

Thanks Roger. did you run your harness out the middle of the firewall or tucked up in the corners exiting the firewall? and then underneath and out of site. is it important to add the relays?

do these cars tend to lean or be lower when only the driver is in the car, or is this compensated with preload on the driver side coilovers?
Eddie

one limitation to routing is where the harness branches off to various locations. I tried to get the holes drilled as close as possible to the wiring harness branches. there is an adequate amount of extra wire.

Hi
Can you tell me who makes the wiring harness?

Eddie, I went the same route you wanna go - I didn't want to see wires. I tucked the fuse panel in behind the steering wheel, up as close to the corner as possible, then ran the harness up under the fender completely out of sight. The run to the rear came down thru the top of the tunnel, and then all the way back and up into the trunk. Up front the only wires visible are the drop to the brakelight pressure switch - the feed to the starter, etc. comes down thru the top of the tunnel right at the firewall, and is tied down to the side of the tunnel. I will get some pics and post 'em. Hopefully they'll come out, too :) .

As to the relays....I wanted more headlight than the sealed beams can provide, and went to higher wattage bulbs. After popping a few fuses (at the headlight switch), I figured it might be a good idea to add a couple relays to the package. So they're mounted up in the front (pics will show 'em) and use the old headlites wire as the relay connect; I ran a separate 10 ga. wire for power to the lights. Not a necessity...but then my eyes ain't whut they used to be and the more light I can get, the better.

If you're a fata$$ like me (230 lbs) the car probably leans a bit when alone in it.....but I sure can't feel it or see it :) so no worries. With enough spring on the back shocks it pro'bly won't lean, either - I have 450 lb/inch units on Koni's in the back which may be why it doesn't bug me.

Bill, the harness is a Unique piece - was done for them by an outside vendor and may, for all I know, still be. It is a superior job - circuit tags on all ends, wrapped and tight with enough spare wire to fit no problems. The dash was pre-wired; just plug in a connector and you're done. I took the extra step of soldering all connectors not already done, since electrical problems make me flat-out insane. And I have had -ZERO- electrical issues since day one. No starter troubles, no weak grounds, no hi speed ignition gremlins, NUTHIN. I am extremely grateful for what an excellent harness this has turned out to be. 'Specially since I don't have far to go when it comes to insanity.



-Roger

Thanks Roger

Roger,

if 230 = fat a$$, I must be pushin close to sumo wrestler :D. my mom.....bless her heart, cause she says I'm just big boned. i'm guess'n to be around 230-240 @ 6'1 or so, not jabba the hutt, but would'nt look right on a harley sportster either! these cars ain't made for big boy's and the gut ain't the problem, its the knee room, or lack of. i've seen bigger guys than me in them, so i'm not gonna miss out on the fun [thumb]

whats the best way to attach the harness up in the inner fenders? i've guys cut 2 little slits in the heat reflecting material, running a zip tie through it and a few others have found somekind of little 1''x1'' square deal that i guess epoxys to the thermotech? is the thermo tech tough enough to keep the zipp ties from pulling through? I would very much appreciate you posting your pictures. thanks for your reply, very helpfull,
Eddie

Eddie,

My build finish (never reaches 100% complete) is fairly fresh so I remember the wiring harness install clearly. It requires quite a bit of fore-thought. You should have no length issues with the exception of if you choose to run the distributor and alternator wire hidden under the engine. That takes thought and planning on where to drill the tunnel and route the wiring. You have enough length to "hide" most of the harness thoughout the car. As far as the battery mount on the passenger side, others can sound off here but I see not practical application since the fuel fill hose would more than likely have to come out to change the battery. I would not want to be worrying about the slightest spark from a terminal since fuel fumes will be hanging out just above the battery if any fittings are not tight.

Remember plan and visualize first for the best happy endings. But I did "do overs" on the harness in places that simply required a splice or extention with a few connectors. I also developed a completely new language when the cuss words ran out or kids were present!!

Good luck, Ric

Thermotec is strong enough to hold the harness, just make sure to use a good quality adhesive.

Alan

thank you all very much! I started installing the thermotech last night. i have to admit i was a bit shocked when I opened and unfolded a hunerd dollars worth of thermotech from jegs and seen how small it was.
Although expensive, its a must have item and would be regretted if skipped. Impossibe to install later.

It has been brought up and talked about, but has anyone actualy used one of the lighter weight batteries? optima red top seems to be most everyones choice, but I am curious about the light weight choices. the cca seems to be comparable, but :confused:
Thanks again,
Eddie