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Dont knopw if this is the right place to post this, but here goes.
I am thinking of really personalizing my car into a hot rod, including a blower motor. My present motor has 9000 miles, runs like a top, can be seen, heard and driven.
Lots of goodies inside.
It is a .030 over tri-webb police interceptor with CJ heads...It cost the original owner 11,000.00 with the tranny!
Any other details regarding the internals, etc? Any dyno results?
modified oiling system.500 delivery galley with enlarged supply passage, high volume oil pump, with heavy duty pump drive, 7 qt cobra T pan with high performance oil pick up. All oil galleys fitted pipe plug caps. Lifter galley honed. Block fitted with forged pistons with moly rings mounted on police interceptor rods resized and fitted with heavy duty ARP rod bolts (190,000 ytield PSI, high performance hydraulic camshaft, 314 duration, 513 lift, double roller timing chain set. Cobra Jet 428 high perf cyl heads with competition valve job. Remote oil filter adapter, 4V aluminum dual plane manifold. 850 double pumper, dual feed mechanical secondarys. Turkey panQuote:
Originally Posted by pgermond
You would get 100 diff. answers from 100 diff. people on this one.
In racing/performance engines, unless you are a very renouned builder selling your own product out of your own car, they will usually bring .50 cents on the dollar you have invested.
Sounds like a very nice engine but without aluminum heads and having 9K miles on it I would guess it around 4-4500
It is a nice block, but stock heads, stock intake, and a hydraulic camshaft for 11K ? Must have been one heck of a transmission.
yes, i forgot to mention the tranny is pure titanium with gold plated levers...lol:DQuote:
Originally Posted by Brent
yes 11,000...and that was over 10 years ago!
$8900.00 at Southern Automotive new turn key engine
http://www.southernautomotiveengines.com/
Fully assembled all engines have the following accessories installed and are test run:
- water pump
- water pump pulley
- harmonic balancer
- crankshaft pulley
- belt
- alternator brackets
- alternator
- distributor
- plug wires
- spark plugs
- valve covers
- timing cover
- fuel pump (high volume)
- fuel line
- carburetor
- pilot bearing
- flywheel
- clutch disk
- pressure plate
- bell housing
- starter
- Canton racing oil pan
- valley splash pan
Isn't 30 over about as far as you can go with a FE block, which would mean no more safe rebuilds?
I went to the southern site, very nice!
If you start adding up all the options after the standard price your into a few more thousand easily, but I do see your point...as far as .030 goes, I am new to the Ford world, I did a google search and found many differing opinions, many safe .080 overbores....030, safe for sure. .060 pretty safe. anything over that...crapshoot!
http://www.southernautomotiveengines...dardspecs.htmlQuote:
Originally Posted by davids2toys
Your engine looks like it matches what is standard on the SA 428 engine.
Are you going to sell your engine with the bell housing to the water pump and alternator?
FEs are thin wall cast and you would have to have the block sonic tested to see how far you can bore it out.
Probably yes, along with the turkey pan, distributer etc, my engine has a lot of stuff on their option list.Quote:
Originally Posted by Naumoff
I was only looking for about how much I could get for it, I would not be stubborn on price, I just stated what the original builder paid for the engine tranny combo . I am not even sure that I will be doing this, just getting an idea of what I could get to offset the cost of the 15000 I would have to spend on this new motor iuf decided to go this route!
I was just trying to give you a reference so you can make a comparison to what someone can buy new. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by davids2toys
I think Brent has a good price range for what it will go for.
What is the part # on the block and heads?
Block has a cast # & letters on the side passenger side toward the front of the block.
Should start with a C. maybe C6ME
Heads have the # and letters between the two middle exhaust ports.
C8OE-H or C8OE-N these are CJ heads
I cannot find either one of these #'s. Are they buried under an accessary or would they be visible to me . I also have a valve cover leak which I need to address...right after I get done with the thermostat/coolant/all hoses...lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by Naumoff
So it is grimey and hard to see!
Do you have a pic, or an exact location?
The engine is a very tight fit, when you pull a motor and replace, can you do it with the body on??
I think Brent was on the money myself!
Thanks....Dave
Dave I will try to locate some pics for you but the ones on the heads are right next to the spark plugs. They are raise cast letters. The one on the block is cast the same way and it might be hard to see if your engine is grimmy.
Put the car on Jack stands. Pull the right front wheel. Pull the hood. Take out the bolt at each hinge pivot. (you wont have to re-align the hood then)Pull the shifter handle off. Pull the trans out (drive shaft and cross member out) and I pull the side pipes and the headers. Driver side will have to stay laying on the frame. (at least on my car)the engine with the bell housing on will come out easy with the engine hoist from the side.
Dave, nobody knows what your motor would sell for. The right guy on the right day and who knows?
I had a thought (they are few and far between) last night.
You mentioned a blower and some additional power. I have done some serious research on blow through superchargers and meth/water injection. Keep an open mind for a minute and bear with me. I am not talking about the outdated SN93 Paxton Shelby had on his car 40 years ago. I am talking about a serious, power making, easy to drive, pressure oiled supercharger.
As an example, you can buy a Paxton Novi 1200/1500 Supercharger system complete for about 3500.00. You can buy a Snow Meth/Water injection system for 250.00 and make 900+ hp. with the motor you have. NO, I am not kidding. It will take some fabricating to fit and your carb will need to be sent off for o-ring throttle shafts and non collaps floats etc.
A Cobra would not easily fit a large intercooler but a Meth/Water system is the size of a milk jug and fits in the trunk. A cool charge is a must for any forced induction to make power and stop detonation. The Meth/Water also increases the octane 8-10 points depending on the mixture. Guess what a perfect and easy to obtain mixture is??????? Windshield washer fluid!!! The system comes with a boost switch that controls the injection. You can adjust when, how much, and flip a switch to turn it off.
You did not mention compression but it would need to be under 9.5
Example of Meth/Water =
http://www.snowperformance.net/product.php?pk=6
Below is a pic of a blow through on a sbf
Just a thought,
I will take a look again...thanks in advance for the pics!Quote:
Originally Posted by Naumoff
Also, great info about pulling the motor, I will save it!
Very interesting stuff.Quote:
Originally Posted by Brent
I really wasn't looking for a ton of power, maybe 650 Hp and 650 torque... more of the look of an old personalized street rod, 8-71 blower thru the hood,3 inch belt spinning right in your line of sight SNAKBITTEN painted down the quarter panel.
I am totally sick of the same question constantly, Is it real? Is it real? Is it real?
If I did this to my car, I would love the look and I would never have to answer that question again:D