bleeding clutch line

[Brent]

A what?? Never heard of one of those.

Brent

[spd4me]

brfutbrian
Where did you get the 7/8 bore master cylinder and what brand is it?

[dmiller]

wilwood's web site has a lot of information, including their different size master cyl's

doug

[brfutbrian]

spd, its a wilwood. bolts right in. ordered it direct from wilwood. it was something like $70 with shipping. it was a couple years ago. but they should hook you up no problem. later, brian.

[spd4me]

brfutbrian
I want to oder some stuff from Wilwood but their web site doesn't have anywhere you can order directly from them. Or am I missing something? I know you can order their shirts and hats.

[Okiesnake]

With the grinding only in reverse, I wouldn't think its a clutch problem. Typically all of your forward gears have syncromesh while reverse is not syncromeshed. This is why a lot of trans will grind when you first try to shift into reverse. Double clutching will usually allow shifting into reverse with out grinding.

[dmiller]

reverse gear is the hardest to engage, and if not fully clutched, will grind.

the wilwood 7/8 bore, pull type slave cyl solved my problem. and it is a neat hook up. my clutch releases with the fork moving forward, so i was able to attach to the motor mount. drove it around block today, no grinding, and no slipping. i think i'll adjust the stroke some more tomorrow to guard agains slipping, to insure fully engaged.

the 7/8 bore is actually slightly smaller than 7/8's because the rod in the "wet" side, reducing the actual cross sectional area.

one of my biggest problems was that i wasn't getting full stroke on the master cyl. but between smaller slave and full stroke, it clutches ok.

closer still. now hood, trunk, and interior.

doug

[dmiller]

also, wilwood sales are thru mail order houses, i bought mine at JEG's, but Wilwood said Summitt was a distributor also.

doug

[brfutbrian]

spd, i called wilwood direct, and had a chat with one of their techs about the same issues with my grind into reverse thing and ordered it right from him. i think i got the phone # right off their website. later, brian.

[brfutbrian]

wilwood sales # 805 388 1188. later , brian

[pgermond]

Doug,

At the beginning of this thread you said you only had 5/8" movement on you slave. If that has increased, what exactly (including part #'s) have you replaced to improve the travel (if you don't mind)? I have a similar issue and am looking to correct it.

Phil

427 Roadster, #4279436
Southern Automotive FE
3:31 and Toploader

Roseville (N.Cal)

[GeorgiaSnake]

Back in the (hate to admit being that old) mid sixties I had a 4 spd in my little hot rod. All of us had the problem of grinding in reverse. If you have the car sitting at idle with the clutch out the transmision is spinning, when you push in the clutch and try to engage reverse it will grind. Try pushing in the clutch and bump first gear before trying to engage reverse, this works on my current car as well.

The problem I'm having now is clutch slippage. First and second gear seem to be ok but third and fourth gear I get slippage at full throttle and the clutch adjustment (the rod on the slave) is as short as I can get it. If any of you guys have a fix for this let me know.

Randy

Unique 289 FIA
Southern Automotive 396
Team III 16's
Brilliant Silver

[dmiller]

my original problem was that i was getting only 5/8 inch of travel at the slave cyl. i bought and installed the smaller bore slave cyl and bought but didn't install a larger bore master cyl. at the first try with the new slave cyl i wasn't getting but 7/8 travel, and decided to call wilwood's tech help. he told me that the master cyl that i had should have 1.4 inches of stroke, and was plenty to move the 7/8 bore slave 1 3/8 inches. i found that i needed to adjust the master cyl push rod to engage sooner, and now i'm getting enough motion to fully disengage, without slipping. in retrospect, the orginal slave cyl may have been adequate had i corrected the master cyl stroke problem. but, i like the pull cyl, it is easier to adjust, remove, etc. and i'll be able to use ford's clutch cover to minimize road dust into the bell housing.

continued progress, and i think i can see a light at the end of the tunnell. next big hurdle is DMV and title. don't know what to expect there.

doug

[spd4me]

doug
where did you attach the fixed end of the pull type wilwood. Did you make a special bracket and weld to frame? How did you run your fluid line to it. I thought about running to a fixed location on foot well and then use a braded flexable piece to slave cylinder. Do you have any pictures? I had an Austin Healey and it would grind into reverse unless I bumped first gear to stop the gears from turning. Someone told me if the lakewood bellhousing insn't truly centered, it can put enough stress on the shaft to keep it from fully disengaging.

[pgermond]

I was told the same thing about the Lakewood bell housing (I don’t know if it is accurate information, but it makes sense). What I discovered through this whole hydraulic jig saw puzzle process is that those adjusting rods on the master cylinders and the bias bar are critically important to success. The whole thing (brakes and clutch) is like a combination lock and everything has to line up perfectly before it will work. After much adjusting and re-adjusting, my brakes are great and my clutch engages and disengages just fine (smoke'em if you got 'em) and no grinding when going into reverse, even after an hour of driving. It feels so-o-o-o-o-o good when a plan comes together [^]

Phil

427 Roadster, #4279436
Southern Automotive FE
3:31 and Toploader

Roseville (N.Cal)