Ugh..header gaskets.

[Russ Dickey]

I've got the same basic problem as Homer on a different thread. During a drive recently, a header bolt vibrated out, and the tell-tale ticking noise of a blown header gasket began eminating from under the hood. So this weekend, I'm changing the gaskets.

I've researched the old threads in this forum, and I'm switching to copper gaskets and locking header bolts with a drop of anti-seize on them. I read that several of you guys recommend loosening the header from the sidepipe to gain more access, and several recommended loosening the sidepipe brackets from the frame. Pros and cons to each?

Any other tricks you veterans know of that can make this nightmare of a job go easier?? I've got a 351W with iron GT40 heads.

Thanks,
Russ

Unique 289FIA - Viking Blue

[Brent]

Russ,

I would remove the side pipes so your headers wont be in any bind. It is a great time to reseal the header to sidepipe connection also. I never thread in a header bolt without antiseze on it. It will not help them stay in but it will keep them from taking a thermal set that can make them impossible to remove without damage.

Brent

[Silk]

Russ,

Don't know if you have aluminum heads, but if you do and if they're fairly new, they're helicoiled. No need for anti-seize. Certainly won't hurt to use it, just not necessary.

Gary
Unique FIA 351W

[eliminator]

Russ,

With the iron heads you have to keep working to keep them tight, it's the cooling difference between the iron head and the header. Seems like on the aluminum heads they cool in the same sequence as the header so once they are tightened several times they stay that way. All header bolts need to be checked periodically.

Rick

[Tony Radford]

Russ, I had both gaskets blow on my previous Windsor. I was told NOT to separate the sidepipe from the headers as I could end up with a leak there. I removed the front sidepipe bolts and loosened the back ones. Assuming your existing gaskets are paper, you've got to be very careful to remove all of the old gasket material. I had a small piece stick to the head on one side and ended up having to remove it a second time. I had to use a mirror to see the exhaust ports of my heads. I went with the copper gaskets and since my heads were ported, I had to use a dremmel tool to open up the copper ports. A little blue RTV around the port openings and I was good to go. I also changed out my header bolts to the allen head type and got a short 3/8 drive to allen adapter. It seemed to be a lot easier than dealing with those little square head bolts.

427SC, Torch Red / white stripes
427 Windsor Stroker from Southern Automotive
Delicious example of Beauty + Power.

[eliminator]

On the non-locking header bolts, 12 point ARP Stainless Steel is the way to go. On a Big Block you can tighten them easily with a 3/8 box end 12 point. You can get them much tighter than using allen head stuff, no slipping with the 12 point and the 3/8" box end gets to tight places. You guy's with the 289's-302's-351's have it easy.

Rick

[Silk]

Ditto Rick's comment on the 3/8 bolts and box wrench. I replaced my original header bolts with the smaller, 3/8 heads (I use hex, not 12 point - they work fine too). Much easier to get at. If you order 'em, look in Jeggs or Summit and get the bolts for big block Chebbies. Same bolt.

Gary
Unique FIA 351W

[pgermond]

A word of caution using allen heads - I used them, but didn't consider access (or lack of) once the body was installed. I had to make special tools to reach the top rear bolts due to the proximity of the foot box. If I had it to do over again I would use hex head. Whenever I tighten my header bolts I have to invite a friend over who has small hands to get the allen wrench inserted... then repay him with a few brews.

I'll probably make it a winter project to replace the allens and go back to the hex heads.

Phil

427 Roadster, #4279436
Southern Automotive FE
3:31 and Toploader

Roseville (N.Cal)

[Brent]

Ditto on the 12pt stainless. It is a breeze with a box end wrench as Rick said.

Brent

[homer]

having just replaced a blown gasket I found that the only way to see that all of the old gasket material was removed from the header was to completely remove the header from the car -- to do this I had to take off the side pipe, separate from the header and then carefully guide the header out of the car -- to make more room I removed the starter such that I could see each port to make sure it was clear of the old felpro gasket

[eliminator]

Homer,

Your doing it the correct way, you can use High Temp. Silicone Copper on the side pipe to header joint and see no leaks.

Rick

[Russ Dickey]

Now that it's all said and done....wasn't too bad. I now agree that the only way to go is to separate the headers from the sidepipes. I was able to do the driver's side with the pipe still attached, but couldn't repeat that feat on the passenger's side. Once I unbolted the sidepipe, it all went together in five minutes. I used the Stage 8 locking header bolts and Mr. Gasket copper gaskets. No more blown header gaskets for me...

Russ

Unique 289FIA - Viking Blue

[Oldtimer]

It is a B-T-H, I found some spray carb clesner helps loosen the old paper gaskets, anything to make the job easier and quicker. I also used Ultra Copper RTV along with the copper gaskets----Seams like that did the trick, no leaks and haven't loosen up after the second tightening.

Rich

[Copper01]

On a side oiler with aluminum heads, does anybody know the proper torque for the header bolts?


Ben
Unique 427
SA 427SO w/ Toploader
Guardsman Blue w/ White Stripes

[clayfoushee]

Ben, Same config. as yours, and I don't know for sure, but I use hex head bolts and just keep them snug with a standard box-end. I can't get my torque wrench in those spaces, but after playing with it and estimating, I'm guessing about 40 lbs. is the max I'm getting with that box-end. Mine are at the point where they're staying snug after 3 rounds of tightening and no leaks.

Clay

'98 Unique #9299, 427FE side oiler, top-loader (close), 3.31 rear

Annapolis, MD

[eliminator]

Clays correct, no way to torque all of the header bolts, if you can get 30 FT LBS with a box end wrench that will do. After a few cycles if you have aluminum heads it will be a once or twice a year check. Those of you with iron heads it will be a monthly deal when your driving your car.

Rick

[davids2toys]

how about the torque for iron heads...same 30 lbs???

[scott h]

it seems there is a big difference depending on what motor you have. i have a 351w. the headerws reaaloy get in the way of getting a wrech on the bolts. the original bolts worked loose all the time and some had to be tightened with a crows foot. i bought a set of the split bolt style with set screw type from summit. BAD CHOICE! i had several snap before reaching recommended torque, luckily i was able to remove the broken bolts without any trouble. i went with allen head bolts. i measured the depth of the bolt hole on the head and bought the longest allen bolt possible, combined with stainless lockwashers i have had no issues. on a 351W you can access all the bolts no problem with an allen wrench or an allen socket drive fitting. For a 351W i think allen bolt is the way to go.

[Jerry Cowing]

18-24 foot pounds according to this Ford spec for the big blocks. Don't know why there are no specs for the exhaust manifolds/headers on the other blocks. Here's some other numbers:

Bolt Torque Calculator http://www.futek.com/boltcalc.aspx

Bolt Torque Spec Chart for Ford

260, 289, 302
Fastener Type Torque Spec
Main cap bolts 60-70 ft.-lbs.
Outer main cap bolts 35-40 ft.-lbs.
Connecting rod bolts 19-24 ft.-lbs. (40-45 ft.-lbs. for 289 HP Boss 302)
Cylinder head bolts 65-72 ft.-lbs.
Rocker arms 17-23 ft.-lbs.
Intake manifold bolts 23-25 ft.-lbs.
Oil pump bolt 23-28 ft.-lbs.
Cam bolts 40-45 ft.-lbs.
Cam thrust plate bolts 8-10 ft.-lbs.
Harmonic damper bolts 70-90 ft.-lbs.
Flywheel/flexplate bolts 75-85 ft.-lbs.
Pressure plate bolts 35 ft.-lbs.
Front cover bolts 12-15 ft.-lbs.

351W
Fastener Type Torque Specs
Main cap bolts 95-105 ft.-lbs.
Connecting rod bolts 40-45 ft.-lbs.
Cylinder head bolts 90-100 ft.-lbs.
Rocker arms 17-23 ft.-lbs.
Intake manifold bolts 23-25 ft.-lbs.
Oil pump bolt 23-28 ft.-lbs.
Cam bolts 40-45 ft.-lbs.
Cam thrust plate bolts 8-10 ft.-lbs.
Harmonic damper bolt 70-90 ft.-lbs.
Flywheel/flexplate bolts 75-85 ft.-lbs.
Pressure plate bolts 35 ft.-lbs.
Front cover bolts 12-15 ft.-lbs.


351C, 351M
Fastener Type Torque Spec
Main cap bolts 95-105 ft.-lbs.
Connecting rod bolts 40-45 ft.-lbs. (45-50 ft.-lbs. for Boss 351C)
Cylinder head bolts (follow factory torque sequence)105 ft.-lbs. (125 ft.-lbs. for Boss 351C)
Rocker arms (non-adjustable) 18-22 ft.-lbs.
5/16 in. intake manifold bolts 21-25 ft.-lbs.
3/8 in. intake manifold bolts 28-33 ft.-lbs.
Oil pump bolt 25 ft.-lbs.
Cam bolts 40-45 ft.-lbs.
Cam thrust plate bolts 9-12 ft.-lbs.
Harmonic damper bolt 70-90 ft.-lbs.
Flywheel/flexplate bolts 75-85 ft.-lbs.
Pressure plate bolts 35 ft.-lbs.
Front cover bolts 12-18 ft.-lbs.

429-460
Fastener Type Torque Spec
Maincap bolts 95-105 ft.-lbs.
Connecting rod bolts 40-45 ft.-lbs.
Cylinder head bolts 140 ft.-lbs.
Rocker arms (non-adjustable) 18-22 ft.-lbs.
Intake manifold bolts 25-30 ft.-lbs.
Oil pump bolt 25 ft.-lbs.
Cam bolts 40-45 ft.-lbs.
Harmonic damper bolt 70-90 ft.-lbs.
Flywheel/flexplate bolts 75-85 ft.-lbs.
Pressure plate bolts 35 ft.-lbs.
Front cover bolts 12-18 ft.-lbs.



360, 390, 406, 427, 428 FE
Fastener Type Torque Spec
Main cap bolts 95-105 ft.-lbs.
Crossbolts for 406 and 427 40 ft.-lbs.
Connecting rod bolts 40-45 ft.-lbs. (53-58 ft.-lbs. for 406 and 427)
Cylinder head bolts 80-90 ft.-lbs. (100-110 ft.-lbs. for 1963-67 427)
Rocker arm shaft bolts 40-45 ft.-lbs.
Intake manifold bolts 32-35 ft.-lbs.
Exhaust manifold 18-24 ft.-lbs.
Oil pump bolt 12-15 ft.-lbs.
Cam bolts 40-45 ft.-lbs.
Harmonic damper bolt 70-90 ft.-lbs.
Flywheel/flexplate bolts 75-85 ft.-lbs.
Pressure plate bolts 35 ft.-lbs.
Front cover bolts 12-15 ft.-lbs.

[davids2toys]

Great post Jerry,
Very helpful for the future I'm sure