Clutch adjustment

[glenn]

Hello everyone,
Not sure how my clutch should be proply adjusted. Are their any guide lines to the adjustment? I get a little vibration in first gear when starting out.Otherwise no problems with first to secnod or into reverse,but alittle vibration in backing up.This is a 4 speed toploader coupled to a 406 FE. Any coments would be appreciated.
Thanks, Glenn

[pgermond]

Glenn,
It sounds like you have the same setup as mine. I had to use some spacers between the bellhousing and hydraulic. I fought it and fought it, but finally got everything dialed in. The only guideline I used was to have enough "play" in the rod that goes to the clutch arm to insure the clutch was completely engaged. You mentioned vibration, which sounds like perhaps something else might be going on. Does it shift into first and reverse okay?

For me it was strictly trial and error. Good luck.

Phil

427 Roadster, #4279436
Southern Automotive FE
3:31 and Toploader

Roseville (N.Cal)

[GeorgiaSnake]

I have been going through the clutch adjustment for a while. Mine was slipping in 3rd and 4th under WOT. I took the pushrod out and ground off the end until it was short enough to be sloppy when adjusted all the way to the short end. This allows for fine adjusting to get the proper release. It only needs to disengage the clutch a very small amount.

If you have chatter or vibration and it is not slipping or causing gear clash it is probably not the adjustment.

Randy

Unique 289 FIA
Southern Automotive 396
Team III 16's
Brilliant Silver

[eliminator]

Some of these clutches and pressure plates chatter a little when starting off in 1st gear, not much you can do about it except try a different brand clutch and pressure plate.

Rick

[souzape]

Glenn- I had the same problem with my clutch and fought it for about a year. I have a SA 351C with a toploader. I recently had the car up on a lift (to re-adjust the clutch and replace a bent actuating psuh rod) and discovered two problems. One, the slave cylinder/push rod was slightly out of line with the clutch arm and two, the bracket for the slave cylinder deflected slightly when the clutch pedal was depressed. I had a reinforcement plate welded to the original slave cylinder bracket and re-drilled the mounting holes to get things lined up. Also replaced the push rod with a heavier modified grade 8 bolt. The chatter has disappeared and the clutch is smoother than it ever was. If you replace the clutch assembly, make certain that the new parts are compatible with the hydraulic actuating system. Alan mentioned to me that many diaphram clutches will not work with our set-up (mine has a long type clutch). Confirm before you buy new parts. PHIL SOUZA

[dmiller]

i have a different setup than most, i think. i'm using a mustang bell housing and aftermarket "centerforce" clutch. the mustang original used a pull cable to release the clutch by pulling the release arm forward. i'm using a wilworth slave cyl that "pulls". it is attached to the motor mount bolt and seems to work very well. of cource, the DMV is keeping my mileage from being excessive, since they still haven't issued tags. but early impression is good.

[Brent]

My clutch will chatter if I slip it in low gear but if I just let the clutch out quicker and do not touch the throttle it chugs away and it is very smooth. Probably the 2800 lb. pressure plate ?

Brent

[gasman]

My clutch started slipping in third and forth as you accelerate. 2,400 miles on the car. Is the plate worn out or does it need adjusting?

Steve Foushee

[Jim Harding]

Steve,

Usually the plate will be OK,... it the friction material on the disk that gives up the goast.

But that's doesn't mean 100% of the time....

First, if the clutch disk isn't toast (yet) check the free play in the clutch fork at the point where the slave cylinder rod meets..... you should have 'some' free play (no pressure on the fork) when the clutch is engaged. Lack of free play has the same effect as "riding the clutch", the clutch plate is not pressing as hard on the disk, so it slips when the you have more engine torque than can be passed through the clutch.... this will really wreck a clutch disk, plate and flywheel surface too... so hopefully you found this problem before too much damage has been done.

Hope this doesn't ruin you weekend....

- Jim -

Jim Harding
La Plata, Maryland

1982 #3004

[excelguru]

Guys - Here's what mine does:

First of all, if I adjust the slave cylinder pushrod to the point where the fork arm would actually be loose (or even close to loose), the clutch would not release enough to allow shifting into 1st and 2nd. So there is always some amount of force against the fork arm.

When the clutch is depressed, the slave cylinder's pushrod moves only 9/16". I did bleed the system (or at least I thought I did).

I was having some issues with shifting into 1st and 2nd recently, so I bled the system (no fix). Then I started lengthening the pushrod by VERY small incriments. Adjust, test drive. Adjust, test drive. I eventually went too far (shifted great but slipped). Now I'm going back the other direction. I think I'm almost there, but I wonder why all of this happened in the first place. It was fine until one night when something felt like it "let go".

When traveling (clutch fully engaged), I can sometimes hear a whining or small rattling noise from the clutch (throw-out bearing giving up the ghost, perhaps?).

Maybe I should schedule an emergency clutch replacement between now and Thursday morning??? Hmm...

Keith
Unique Motorcars
Southern Automotive
Bruce Bunn (the painter)

My Photo Album

[Jim Harding]

Keith,

If you can't get enough slave/fork travel to allow some free play AND provide full disengagement, a new clutch (I don't think) will solve your problem. I'd dive into the travel issue first. Master/slave matched up? You mentioned air already. Maybe the master and/or slave cylinder just worn out?

- Jim -

Jim Harding
La Plata, Maryland

1982 #3004

[gasman]

Pulled the transmission this afternoon. The clutch is completely worn out and the fly wheel is cracked. No problem, the fine folks at Southern Automotive have boxed up the parts and I will have them in my hands tomorrow by noon. I sure am glad this happened yesterday instead of Thursday!

Steve Foushee

[jhaynie]

Steve,

Man isn't it great buying one of these cars used and you get to find all of these neat suprises. Brake pedals falling off, rear bearings going out after 3000 miles, brake master cylinders failed, clutch fork bolts shearing for no reason, cracked flywheels, worn clutch plates, etc, etc, etc.[)][)][)].

Oh well, they sure look cool, and help dress up the mechanics shops while they are in there.

I should have mine back Wednesday or Thursday morning. Nothing like waiting until the last minute. I hope I didn't overlook the next major failure this past weekend.

John

Unique 289FIA #9367
351W Fuel Injected

[eliminator]

Well on second thought I might as well, Clutches/Flywheels/and Pressure Plates.
If I had to do it over again, at the time I ordered my engine I would have spent some time in this area. Billet Flywheel, steel 28# McLeod (or Aluminum Billet), a 3 finger McLeod Pressure Plate, and McLeod Disc. I did pull my clutch to put ARP Flywheel bolts in, glad I did as I wasn't satisfied with the 390 truck flywheel, changed to a Billet Steel McLeod, 28# and had it zero balanced, just wish I would have finished up with the clutch disc and pressure plate. SA uses a new clutch disc and pressure plate but it's not up to holding the torque on the 427 engines, my opinion. I have heard of numerous failures. Mine doesnt slip yet, but if you were to run the car hard, track events, ect. it would. Pain in the @$$ to change. Just do it right the first time and it will never come back to bite you in the a$$. All these engines need a better clutch then the ones supplied. Centerforce and Haas makes some good stuff too. My thoughts.

Rick

[clayfoushee]

Wow....the more I learn about FEs/clutches/flywheels, etc., the scarier things get. Even though everything has been bulletproof since I acquired the car, when I hear stuff like this along with Gasman's experience, I halfway wonder if I shouldn't have it torn into and checked.....if I want to keep my legs, etc. intact [:O]

Burnouts are not gonna be as much fun anymore......

Clay

'98 Unique #9299, 427FE side oiler, top-loader (close), 3.31 rear

Annapolis, MD

[Brent]

I am running a Mcleod Billet aluminum flywheel, Mcleod 2800 lb three finger plate, and a Hays street/strip disc. So far I like the set-up and the drivability of the combination.

Clay if you use new parts and good quality fasteners with the proper torque and good ole locktite everything should be ok. I hope nobody in here has a factory cast bellhousing.Certain places in a car where money is no object.

Brent

[clayfoushee]

My problem Brent and Rick, is that I don't know what parts were used on the clutch and flywheel or what was done to it, or how it was mounted. I just know everything is working well right now.

Although the car was originally built in 98 with an SA 428, that motor blew up and was replaced with the current SO, but not from SA. The previous owner is considerably more clueless than I am and can't answer those questions. I do know who built the engine, but he didn't do the engine/trannie mating and installation.

At that time, I bought the car, much like my brother, I had no clue what to check into.

Clay

'98 Unique #9299, 427FE side oiler, top-loader (close), 3.31 rear

Annapolis, MD

[spd4me]

You know I've had the same clutch slave cylinder problem. Mine won't go into reverse unless I turn off the motor and put in then start motor. I'm only getting 1/2" throw out of my Lockheed slave cylinder. The problem may be using a 3/4" master cylinder pushing on a 1" slave. I got a Wilwood pull slave and am in process of mounting to frame. This will give me a 1-1/4" throw. I was hoping to have done by this Friday but time is running out.

[Brent]

Clay,

If the trans has been in the car since 98 and you dont have any issues with it I would say the "installer" did it right. The slave cylinders or the hyd. throwout bearings are VERY dependent on the set up. If its right, its right . If it is not, it will be a pain in the a$$ from the get go and never let you forget it.

Brent

[WBofTN]

Something I have found:
When I start getting a little first gear shutter, I change out the hydraulic fluid and things seem to get better.
Just a thought and it may be mental. I use that hi-temp stuff, but I still think those fluids
cook sitting right above those pipes.
Wes

'93 Unique 427/351W/4sp