clutch master cylinder failed?

[hound dog]

I didn't get any feedback on the club cobra forum so I'll try again here. I've read the thread about all the problems with clutch slave cylinders etc., but my clutch feels like it has air in the master cylinder. I've bled the slave cylinder on the bellhousing to no avail. I can pump the cluth pedal and get enough pedal to shift gears, but that's no fun! Another strange thing, when you mash the clutch pedal the level in the resevoir rises which makes me think theres air in the cylinder somewhere blocking the fluid from going where it's supposed to. Any opinions?
Thanks,
h dog

[Brent]

I am currently replacing my clutch master cylinder. I had a very similar situation you are having. I removed the master cylinder and took it apart. I found two flat o-rings and a very worn cup on the piston. They are only 45.00 so Wilwood no longer makes a rebuild kit for them you just replace them. If you want to take it apart just remove it from the car, pull the rubber boot forward, you will see the snap ring behind the boot. squeeze the snap ring and remove it. pull the entire piston assy. out.

Good luck
Brent

[gasman]

Brent, As I recall, your car has less than 500 miles on it. Correct?

Still no buyer?

Steve Foushee
Unique #4279389

[hound dog]

OK, what must be, must be. I've got a new cylinder coming from Summit. It just had to be the one over next to the fender didn't it? Hardest one to get to! I think I'll also take this opportunity to route the fluid line away from the header, that can't be doing things any good.
h dog

[Brent]

Steve, I think it was bad from the start.

H-Dog, It was easy to get to with the motor out of the car

Brent

[gasman]

Elvis, I'm liking that Avatar....

Steve Foushee
Unique #4279389

[spd4me]

hound dog
Elvis left the building in a Cobra! What ever you do, the best investment is to cover the lines with Thermo-shielding. You can get from Jegs or Summit.
Bob

[davids2toys]

I was doing some spirited driving/shifting, wound out third gear, letting it coast down, when I went to shift into second, my clutch pedal was on the floor, after about 5 minutes, it magically reappeared, what in the world does this mean? Worked fine, as if nothing happened...could this be my master cyl going?

[clayfoushee]

I was doing some spirited driving/shifting, wound out third gear, letting it coast down, when I went to shift into second, my clutch pedal was on the floor, after about 5 minutes, it magically reappeared, what in the world does this mean? Worked fine, as if nothing happened...could this be my master cyl going?

Could be, or more likely, your clutch lines are very close to the headers, which boils your fluid, especially after spirited driving. When that happens, you don't have much, if any, clutch pedal. I suspect it is boiled fluid from the scenario you described. If it's working fine cold, then that is your problem.

A lot of us have either relocated the lines, which is a bit of a pain on an already assembled car, or the easiest solution is to wrap the lines with that foil insulation. Mine is fine with the latter solution.

Routine fluid bleeds help too. Over time, the boiling point goes down with contamination and water absorption. Use a DOT 3 with the highest possible boiling point. Wilwood offers 570 degrees from Summit.

Some people, including me, used DOT 5 silcone, with an even higher boiling point, and that worked great for a couple of years. However, Wilwood says that is a "no-no" and will ultimately break down the seals. Even though I never had a problem, I replaced my clutch master and went back to Wilwood DOT 3.

[davids2toys]

Could be, or more likely, your clutch lines are very close to the headers, which boils your fluid, especially after spirited driving. When that happens, you don't have much, if any, clutch pedal. I suspect it is boiled fluid from the scenario you described. If it's working fine cold, then that is your problem.

A lot of us have either relocated the lines, which is a bit of a pain on an already assembled car, or the easiest solution is to wrap the lines with that foil insulation. Mine is fine with the latter solution.

Routine fluid bleeds help too. Over time, the boiling point goes down with contamination and water absorption. Use a DOT 3 with the highest possible boiling point. Wilwood offers 570 degrees from Summit.

Some people, including me, used DOT 5 silcone, with an even higher boiling point, and that worked great for a couple of years. However, Wilwood says that is a "no-no" and will ultimately break down the seals. Even though I never had a problem, I replaced my clutch master and went back to Wilwood DOT 3.

What you say makes perfect sense and was on my list of things to do.
I have girling MC's, brake and clutch...can I go with Dot 4 or that valvoline syntec, it is suppose to be compatible with dot4, or if i go with dot 3, why? I thought dot 3 and dot 4 were totally compatible, and dot 4 was much more heavy duty and higher temp!
While we are on the subject, all my MC caps have this crust like substance on the outside and some on the inside of the caps/rubbers.
What would you suggest my problem is here, do they sell replacement caps?
Thanks, Dave

[clayfoushee]

Girling, like Wilwood MCs, is old-school technology. The manufacturer's recommendation is to stick with DOT 3. The Wilwood 570 stuff is DOT 3. There are others with a similar higher boiling point now. Just make sure it says DOT 3 on the bottle.

I don't know what the "crusty stuff" might be........never seen that, unless the fluid is just ancient. I don't know where to get new caps either.

Wilwood MCs are cheap and available on-line from Summit. If I were you, I'd order a couple to keep on the shelf. That way, you'd also have some new caps for the time-being.