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Thread: Oil in the Bellhousing???

  1. April 29th, 2005, 06:59 PM #1
    daveg's Avatar
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    Oil in the Bellhousing???

    So - did the first long drive today (whopping 5 miles - sh*t eating grin the whole way) - starting to get the hang of small car - big motor - heavy clutch - basically roaring around the neighborhood and scaring the children.

    When I get back I notice some small amount of oil dripping from the bellhousing. After jacking the car up, it seems to be coming from INSIDE the bellhousing and blowing out through the cut-out for the clutch line.

    Oil pressure was good throughout the whole drive - 80 to start - down to 60 and holding once the car was warmed up.

    From reading other posts - seems like this could be the rear seal or something - definately don't want oil in there. Whatever - seems expensive. Any ideas on what to do next?

    Dave
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  2. April 29th, 2005, 07:08 PM #2
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    [xx(] yuck.... that doesn't sound good. Seems like the May curse is upon us Some details of the configuration would help, i.e. motor, # of miles, bell housing type, clutch, throw-out bearing, etc.

    Phil

    427 Roadster, #4279436
    Southern Automotive FE
    3:31 and Toploader

    Roseville (N.Cal)
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  3. April 29th, 2005, 08:42 PM #3
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    Engine - SA 406 - New 6 miles from me
    LakeWood Bellhousing from SA
    TKO-600 - McCloud Throw-out bearing assembly from Standard Transmission
    Clutch was in there when it came from SA - should be their standard.
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  4. April 29th, 2005, 09:14 PM #4
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    If it were me, I would be on the phone with Mr. Parham at the first opportunity.

    Phil

    427 Roadster, #4279436
    Southern Automotive FE
    3:31 and Toploader

    Roseville (N.Cal)
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  5. April 30th, 2005, 07:18 AM #5
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    Is the back of the intake dry where it meets the block ?
    Are the back of the valve covers dry ?
    If these areas are dry it is probably the rear seal, one of the three rear galley plugs, or the rear cam plug. I just went through this process. I replaced the rear seal, then the intake gaskets and seals, and had to pull the trns to find it was a seeping plug and cam plug. I would have thought it would have leaked in front of the front plate however I guess the flywheel created a vacuum and pulled the oil in through the three holes in the plate and then ran down the inside of the bellhousing. The rear seal assy. on a FE is a terrible design flaw.

    Best of luck!


    Brent
    427 SC Chassis #4279401
    Candy Apple Red/White
    402 FE/Toploader/3.54
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  6. April 30th, 2005, 07:45 AM #6
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    Dave, sorry to hear about the problem. I'd bet Bill will have you ready for Homecoming though.

    Steve Foushee
    Unique #4279389
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  7. April 30th, 2005, 05:10 PM #7
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    Brent - seems like everything is dry and it is the rear seal.

    I am calling Bill on Monday. From my understanding, the seal is either the old rope design or a later neoprene. Anyone know what Southern uses? What is involved in changing either? Auto Part guy mentioned that some type of tool can be used to access with the oil pan off and without taking out the motor? Is that true or just wishful thinking on my part?

    Dave
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  8. April 30th, 2005, 06:01 PM #8
    brfutbrian
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    dave, yes it is true, i`d run it a few more miles and see if it gets any better. if its got a rope seal, a little oil saturation swell might do the trick. later, brian
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  9. April 30th, 2005, 06:19 PM #9
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    Dave,

    The motor you purchased from SA was (according to their website) run on the stand for a couple of hours to insure reliabilty. I have heard nothing but good things relating to Bill standing behind his product (on this forum and others). If you have a rear seal leak, then call SA, explain the situation, and my quess is it will be taken care of. Sh*t happens and, unfortunately, it appears it happened to you. I wouldn't bother to wait and see if it improves - because most likely it won't.

    Best of luck.

    Phil

    427 Roadster, #4279436
    Southern Automotive FE
    3:31 and Toploader

    Roseville (N.Cal)
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  10. May 2nd, 2005, 06:45 AM #10
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    "The motor you purchased from SA was (according to their website) run on the stand for a couple of hours"
    Don't think this is good info.
    I think they run the cam in, get it good and hot, adjust the valves and that's it, 30-45 minutes MAX.
    My SA 427 valve covers leaked like hell when I did a test run in the chassis. So they never ran mine after adjusting the valves[:O].
    I ran through every bolt, replaced them with ARP bolts, and checked everthing after that, actually tore it down to a long block and put it back together. Better safe than sorry.

    Rick
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  11. May 2nd, 2005, 11:07 AM #11
    spd4me
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    I've got a SA 396W and it was leaking oil bad from the bellhousing where it meets the engine. Check the rear oil pan and was okay. Thought it might be trans oil but after catching some and smelling, it was engine oil. The rear one piece seal was leaking. Bill took car back and fixed with no complaints or problems.
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  12. May 3rd, 2005, 09:34 AM #12
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    daveg,

    What is happening? Have not heard what you decided to do or what you found.

    Inquiring minds want to know.


    Brent
    427 SC Chassis #4279401
    Candy Apple Red/White
    402 FE/Toploader/3.54
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  13. May 3rd, 2005, 10:28 AM #13
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    I am traveling this week so my onsite work is limited.

    I talked with Maurice and then with Lyle at Southern. I am starting to think that it might be more tranmission than oil for a couple of reasons:

    1) Wasn't leaking when I first started the engine on the stands
    2) Leaks more when I drive than when I am just running the engine
    3) Oil level hasn't been going down at all

    When I get back in town on Thursday I am going to:

    1) Inspect the drip closer - smell and compare (oil or tranmission?)
    2) Jack up the car again and attempt to add more tranmission fluid - if it is down I will know what from.

    I will let you all know (complete with pictures) what the deal is...

    Dave
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  14. May 12th, 2005, 01:41 PM #14
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    Turns out that on closer inspection it is indeed oil and can confirm it is leaking in the rear somewhere.

    Trying to get in touch with Bill at SA to get his thoughts. Surprisingly most of the advice has been to continue driving it as posted in this thread to see if it slows down as the engine breaks in.

    I will post more as I know more. Everyone have fun at homecoming (too long a drive for this year - maybe next?)
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  15. June 6th, 2005, 10:37 AM #15
    weaver
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    Dave, Bill Parham is the best at taking care of any problem you might have with one of his engines. I think we all know that FEs have always had a problem with oil leaks, even when new so why shouldn't they leak now. Your engine sat for at least a year before you started it, this might be the reason for the leak. Enjoy driving it this summer and have the rear seal replaced after driving season.

    Alan
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  16. June 7th, 2005, 09:57 PM #16
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    Hey Alan Lil' Cobra doesn't have an oil leak it just marks its territory!

    Ralph
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  17. August 23rd, 2007, 09:31 AM #17
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    Resolved

    Finally resolved....see post below....

    http://www.uniquecobra.com/forums/sh...8137#post78137
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  18. August 24th, 2007, 05:52 AM #18
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    Wink

    It is amazing......
    Rick
    427 S/C , 427 Side-oiler, 4 Speed Close Ratio Top Loader, 3:73 Gear
    #4279405
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  19. August 24th, 2007, 07:39 AM #19
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    Once Again - Problem Solved!

    I just love to here how, if it is a problem from Southern Auto, that they stand behind it. I've heard this type of story enough times to know that's why I purchased my engine from Sue and Bill. Happy that ours never had a leak and for that matter still doesn't - 4 years later.
    Good people and great business folks, as well.
    My hat is off to them!
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