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Thread: hard starting

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    lawrenceville, ga, USA.
    Posts
    141

    hard starting

    Well this just started today. After a 15 min.ride, i stop to top of my gas--$15.oo worth. BANG-- It almost didnt start. It was cranking slower then before. Finaly it started. I did this a couple times and each time the cranking was a slower than normal.It never left me stranded thow.You can hear a difference in sound and a slower starting speed. ANY IDEAS ? I Have a Southern Auto 428 FE. The battery is 10 months old. It's a Interstate Mega-tron Plus battery. 85 month warrinty---800cca and 1000ca. The battery is in the trunk but see no wires to charge the battery, just the cable wires. Does the alternator wires go to the starter which then would feed the battery.Anyway , its a slower speed trying to start this engine. Any suggestions ? THANKS

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    , Indiana, USA.
    Posts
    1,316
    If you have a stock Ford starter throw it away and get a good gear reduction starter. Powermaster makes a nice unit for the money. Tilton is also a nice piece but more pricey.



    Brent
    427 SC Chassis #4279401
    Candy Apple Red/White
    402 FE/Toploader/3.54

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Rogers, AR, USA
    Posts
    577
    You should have 2 battery cables, one that hits a frame ground just behind the left rear tire, and another that goes to the solenoid. Charge and discharge both come through those.

    Brian Carlson

    Unique 9122 - 289 FIA Cobra - The Legendary "Spence" Car

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Knoxville, TN, USA.
    Posts
    35
    Hard starts could be from many causes. Timing, carb perculating, loose cables, heat, battery, etc. Following Brent's excellent reply, I have the same problem with a Powermaster XSTorque. When it was new it didn't "drag", but quickly became about the same as the Ford unit it replaced.

    I thought maybe heat (from the headers) was getting to it, so I made a "blanket" from insulating wrap. No improvement.

    So, I suggest the Tilton. If you haven't done a gear starter before, REMEMBER to fit it before you bolt it !! Some blocks will require you to "grind" some aluminum off of the starter !!

    Dan Fowler, better known in Kit Car as Don Flowers. *427SC *428MSG with goodies *Tremec *3:31 posi *Ford Performance White w/light stripes *Grey interior *completed 1999

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Shepherdsville, KY, USA.
    Posts
    1,725
    I am with Brent on this one, the headers are so close to the big stock
    starter that it "cooks" it. Get rid of it.
    I like the Tilton, you are able to rotate it in several positions to get the maximum header clearance. The Powermaster may do the same thing. The instructions will tell you how to check the starter gear to ring gears tolerances. They come with a .060-.070 shim to use if needed. Don't know about "Dan and the grinding on aluminum deal" have to talk to Mr. Flowers about that!!

    Rick
    #4279405

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    augusta, ga, USA.
    Posts
    316
    Check all of your wiring/cable connections to your solenoid. Mine were so crappy that I'm surprised the car ever started. Make sure your using 2 gauge battery cable as well.

    John

    Unique 289FIA #9367
    351W Fuel Injected

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    lawrenceville, ga, USA.
    Posts
    141
    Hay Brent and Rich -- I just got of the phone with Alan. He said it's a Tilton starter. He said to also see if the distributer moved any. THANKS. Brian -- Thanks for locatoion of wires. I will check these. WYT-VNM -- No i never did a starter so thanks for the info.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Annapolis, MD, USA.
    Posts
    1,523
    I agree you should some sort of hi-torque, mini-starter on it to avoid heat-soak issues from the headers.

    In addition, you should invest less than $30 on a small trickle charger such as "Battery Tender." It comes with a plug-in extension that you can install and leave permanently on the battery.

    If you drive it infrequently or on a lot of short runs, you'll start it the first time with a partially-depleted battery, and the alternator may not have a chance to get it charged back up before your 2nd and 3rd starts. With the "Battery Tender", you can leave it always plugged in your garage safely.

    Clay

    '98 Unique #9299, 427FE side oiler (452.1-stroker), top-loader (close), 3.31 rear

    Annapolis, MD

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Knoxville, TN, USA.
    Posts
    35
    Yeah, the Tilton is best and not that much more $$$. Yeah, with the Powermaster it is VERY possible you will have to grind the mounting plate area to clear the block. I think this only happens on the FE engines, but not on all of them.

    Dan Fowler, better known in Kit Car as Don Flowers. *427SC *428MSG with goodies *Tremec *3:31 posi *Ford Performance White w/light stripes *Grey interior *completed 1999

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