push - button ignition switch

[olblu66]

Im changing over from the key ignition to a push button style . Now the old key type is rated at 60 amps i believe . The push [ momintary ] switch is 30 amps . I need 2 toggle swtches to supply power to acc. part of the switch and another to feed power to the ign. and starter part. Now what amp. ratting do these 2 toggle switches need to be. Thanks -- Pat .

[RJacobsen]

Pat, I don't have an answer to your question but check out this link, it might help. http://keith.miata.net/brb/brb.html

[pbrown]

I may be wrong but I don't think that there is that much current through the switch when starting. You might want to connect an ammeter and see. The switch triggers a relay (starter solenoid). It's the solenoid that has the high current to the starter.

What starter button are you thinking about? Many of the FFR guys have used the Honda S2000 button. I don't recal there being any problems with amperage.

[Master]

I believe Brent installed one before he sold his car, maybe he can help. I do not use a ford solenoid, I run straight from the Ignition switch to the high torque starter with a 30A fusable link in-line. A push button switch should work along with 1 toggle switch for the accessories. Run a jumper wire from the assy switch to power the starter button.

[olblu66]

Thanks To ...

Rod... Interesting. The only thing i see in thers is there still using there keyed swith. Im trying to chane my key assembly with just a toggle switch. Now a key switch ign. carries a 50 or 60 amp ratting. Does the toggle switch have to be ratted that high as well. Thanks

Patrick...Im using a 40 amp starter button from Pegasusautoracing.com. Will a lucas 15amp toggle switch and a 40 amp pushbutton together work ? Thats what im trying to figuire out. Thanks

scott... If i run a jumper wire from the acc. to power the starter then it will keep all acc. circuits in while trying to start the car. On a keyed ign. The acc. drops out while trying to start it. Thanks


Now here is what i would like to do.
1. Get rid of the keyed ignition.
2. Replace it with toggle and momentary push-button deal.
3. Would also like to turn the motor over without starting the engine to prelube the motor. Thanks

[RJacobsen]

Pat. The high amp rating on the ignition switch is probably because all of the accesorys are ran through the one switch, If you are separating them out to different switches you can probably get by with a lesser rating. I got another link for you http://www.panteraplace.com/page183.htm I hope this helps.

[olblu66]

Thanks Rod . You can always learn something out of other expereance. Thanks Pat

[Storm9400]

Olblu66: To accomplish your 3rd objective another option is
available if you are using a MSD 6AL ignition box. It is has
an auxilery wire that can be wired to an on/off toggle to kill power
to the ignition. Flip the toggle on and the MSD is grounded to the frame.
Push the start button cranking her over and watch the oil pressure
guage move to a + psi. Anyway thats how it was done my car.
Bill

[olblu66]

Well thanks Bill . I do have a msd box and i didn't know that about the aux.wire . ill look into that. Pat

[pseim]

Pat,
Did you ever get your pushbutton starter installed?
As part of my new dash, I just installed a setup using one multiposition toggle for acc and ignition and the pushbutton for start. And it works!

[Aggressor]

I agree with Patrick. I don't see why you would want to ever load that much amperage throught the starter switch unnecessarily. Use a Ford solenoid connected to a Lucas
pushbotton switch with a light gauge trigger wire. The solenoid's heavy duty contacts should pass electricity to the starter with less line loss. Finishline can supply a Lucas push button with the period look.

-Geary