chassis prep questions

[richardu]

My Unique 427 is at the painter and it looks like it will be done in three weeks. I've started work on the remote oil filter, fuel line fittings, filter, electric pump, etc. This is the biggest project I've ever done. I'm a first timer on just about every aspect of the build. The info from forum searches has been great, but I still need answers to some basic questions. Do threaded AN fittings need sealant? Where can I get a speedo cable (and cable housing) for a toploader and 3.31 IRS differential? I'm told the recommended Ford Racing FL1 oil filter recommended by SA for my 351W is discontinued. What would be a suitable oil filter substitute? I've got a engine mounted mechanical fuel pump with a bulged tube end to be connected to the fuel line. What's the easiest method for making a good connection? Do I need a fuse and pressure safety switch between the rear electric fuel pump and the ignition/starter solenoid? Any help would be greatly appreciated by this rookie.

DU

[pgermond]

*You don't need any sealant on the AN fittings.

*You can get a speedo housing and chain at most any auto parts store... I use NAPA.

* Your local Ford dealer should have an assortment of nylon speedo gears for your tranny (you could also get your cable there as well).

These two links may help (my own personal nightmare), or do your own search on "speedo gear" -

http://www.uniquecobra.com/showthrea...ht=speedo+gear

http://www.uniquecobra.com/showthrea...ht=speedo+gear

* Do a Google on your FL1 oil filter and see what pops up.

* You can get as fancy or simple as you want with the fuel pump to supply line connection. I used rubber fuel line and a clamp. It's been that way for you years and no problems.

Something else you may want to do before the body goes on is check your brake hydraulic system. Put the fittings under pressure (especially rear inboard discs) to insure they don't leak (suggested from personal experience of having to remove the rear caliper with the body on!)

Good luck!

[richardu]

Phil: Thanks for the info. I'll talk to the folks at my local NAPA and Ford stores on the speedo cable assembly and see what they say. I just found a thread indicating NAPA will sell you the entire assembly on a special order, so I might try that too. I thought the correct cable set up was specific to the toploader, but it sounds like a generic Ford assembly. The Unique manual and CD don't give you much info on the speedo cable so this is a little bit like detective work. I haven't been able to find any pictures of what the parts look like or where the connections are actually made, but I'll figure it out somehow. (If you or anyone else could explain how its connected or lead me to pics or an info source, that would be a great help!)

I was hoping the AN fittings didn't need sealant, so that's good news. I've decided to call Carter Products on Monday regarding my question on the fuse and pressure safety switch for the fuel pump. Again, thanks for the help on these basic questions. I really apreciate it.

DU

P.S. Do you

[pgermond]

DU,

If you want to play it safe, use teflon tape on the AN's (I did).

[Jim Harding]

The mechanics of an AN fitting, when properly mated, will not allow the threads to get "wet". Any sealant or tape that I would observe would make me very suspicious that the assembler was trying to hide something. I know we all want to play it safe, and we live by the rule that an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure, but sometimes this extra work is just unnecessary.

On my older car, I got to looking around and noticed someone (previous owner or his mechanic) had used teflon tape on the rear brake line couplings. Upon closer observation, I noticed a slight seepage of brake fluid around the fitting. Taking things apart, I found some idiot had used a common (non-inverted-flare) fitting to join the two pieces of line. The tape was just his way of stopping the leak. Talk about poor workmanship!

[Master]

I used Permatex aviation sealant on the AN fittings to the remote oil filter and any where else that standard pipe threads were used. It worked well. You need to consider several issues with your speedo cable. #1 do you have an autometer speedometer, if so it is reverse sweep gage that needs the rotation changed, either by the adapter that mounts on the rear of speedometer or the type of gear you have in the trans. Not what is installed on the cable itself. I know this because I have to pull my Trans this winter because I screwed mine up! There is a wire for the electric fuel pump that is routed to the trunk area if you need it. Most people have put the fuel pump on switch to be turned on if needed. I would think a pressure regulator would be a good idea as well.

[twanita]

did you find the speedo cable yet? i have been trying to find one also for a standard reading stewart warner.(not reverse reading)

[pgermond]

The cables are the same (the reverse speedo has a separate adapter that reverses the direction). These are two well known top loader guys... if you can't find it at an auto parts dealer, give them a call. Both are very good - and helpful.

http://www.4speedtoploaders.com/shop/enter.html
http://www.toploaderheaven.com/

Here are some other alternatives -

http://www.speedometersolutions.com/
http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...6&autoview=sku

[Aggressor]

I used Russel AN fittings. Russel recommends a paste sealant on the threads. I have used it but I really don't think it is necessary.
-Geary

[nolastyankee]

Regarding AN fittings, the Russell paste is more of an anti-sieze than sealant. AN fittings seal by a compression area in the fitting, not against the threads like standard pipe fittings.

It's not as cheap as the NAPA options, but Lokar makes a couple nice speedometer cables that can be cut to length. I bought one for our SW standard sweep gauges.