clutch bleeding

[twanita]

i have the standard clutch hydraulic slave, lakewood bell hsg and ram clutch. i hooked up a pressure bleeder to the clutch master cyl and pumped it to 20 lbs. the fluid got to the exit fitting on the mc ( i know because it leaked) but i get nothing at the bleeder. i even cracked the line going into the slave and nothing. before i start checking the lines and unions for blockage, am i missing something?. shouldn't 20 lbs push fluid through even though i have the tank set below the mc? does the piston in the mc have to be in a certain position to allow fluid to pass through?.

[pgermond]

A blockage is unlikely, but not impossible - what happens if you pump (and pull) the pedal? Did you bench bleed (prime) the m/c?

[twanita]

hi phil, no but i should have. i'm starting to get fluid through on the clutch and brakes but still a lot of air. i think i just have to be more patient remembering that everything was completely dry. also my pedal pumper (wife) is very impatient as the garage is cold. thx, jim o.

[pgermond]

I understand what your saying about your pedal pumper When I did mine I used an evacuation system (suction). It got the fluid through the system in a hurry. Then I used a brake bleeder kit (NAPA) making it a one man job.

Good luck..... you'll get there.... part of the fun

[davids2toys]

rookie owner here...
Can somone post the proper clutch bleeding proceedure for me, or post a link.
I want to do all the fluids in the car...so far I have done the oil, thermostat and coolent next, then clutch brakes and rear.
Any advice appreciated!!!
Thanks

[pgermond]

Read the thread you just posted on and use the "search" function on clutch slave bleeding. That will keep you busy for a while

For the clutch I use a self-brake bleeding kit from NAPA. I flush the system out real good because this the line closest to the header. This year I replaced the slave as a precautionary measure ($50). Both my clutch line and slave are well wrapped with heat shield/reflective material. Have never had a problem due to regular maintenance/inspection.

[davids2toys]

Read the thread you just posted on and use the "search" function on clutch slave bleeding. That will keep you busy for a while

For the clutch I use a self-brake bleeding kit from NAPA. I flush the system out real good because this the line closest to the header. This year I replaced the slave as a precautionary measure ($50). Both my clutch line and slave are well wrapped with heat shield/reflective material. Have never had a problem due to regular maintenance/inspection.

How do you think I found this thread...lol
Where do you get this heat sheild wrap, a place like advance auto, or auto zone?
I did notice that the line is only about 2 inches away from the header, it looks like they could have routed that line more away from the header!ooops, that is the front brake line! I wiull now go look for the clutch line
Is this self bleeding brake kit like the mighty vac kit( which I already own).
what is this self bleeder kit doing exactly?

[twanita]

there is a picture of the popular self bleeding kit in the first post of this thread. i think it is called a motive bleeder and i got mine from pelicanparts.com but others sell them. the best thing for the brake lines is a sleeve from jegs or summit. then they also have adhesive sheets that you can cut up and wrap around the slave. jim o

[pgermond]

Here is a photo of the heat shield I made and the clutch slave and hydraulic lines wrapped. Maybe a bit primitive, but it works....

[Naumoff]

Dave,

I just get a peddle pumper and bleed and fill. The Wilwood M/Cs, as you can see, have a small reservoir so check them regularly or get a third person to keep filling them.

You could make it a party and have one person at each wheel, one at the clutch, one at the M/C and a peddle pumper.

[scott h]

i have a hydralic t/o bearing it seemed like it took forever to bleed. i used a speed bleeder here too. helped alot. most people wind up rerouting the lines because of the proximity to the headers. lots of postings on that subject

[davids2toys]

Thanks for all the good info

[Naumoff]

i have a hydralic t/o bearing it seemed like it took forever to bleed. i used a speed bleeder here too. helped alot. most people wind up rerouting the lines because of the proximity to the headers. lots of postings on that subject

Scott,
I have a McLeod HTOB and two bleeds its good and one more just because. Three pumps hold then I bleed.
Is your bleeder on top of the piston or on the bottom?

[RJacobsen]

Dave, Be carefull of what fluid you use especially if you have a hydralic t/o bearing. I think McLeod recomends Dot-3 only. some of the fancier stuff will eat the seals.

[Naumoff]

Rod, Your right. DOT 3 ONLY. I use the Wilwood 570. No problems.

[davids2toys]

Dave, Be carefull of what fluid you use especially if you have a hydralic t/o bearing. I think McLeod recomends Dot-3 only. some of the fancier stuff will eat the seals.

Ok, here comes the stupid question, how do I know if I have a HTOB, to me it looks like it is a slave cyl with a bleeder on top.

[pgermond]

The slave is external and uses a clutch fork. A HTOB is internal (inside the bell housing) and slides over the input shaft of the transmission.

[davids2toys]

The slave is external and uses a clutch fork. A HTOB is internal (inside the bell housing) and slides over the input shaft of the transmission.

That's what I figured, I am looking at a cyl outside with a bleeder screw on the top, so this would mean I have a slave and therefore CANNOT have a hyd throwout bearing, is this correct?
That being the case, can I use dot 4 or that valvoline syntec stuff, or is dot3 all I should use in this system/
Would you know where I can buy all new caps for my brakes and clutch MC...I have girling MC's. They have this orange crust on the outside and on the inside and on the rubber boot, I have no idea what this stuff is, but it does not look to good!

[pgermond]

Can't help you with locating new caps. Maybe do a Google search. I use Valvoline syntec with my brakes and Wilwood high-temp with the clutch. Lines are wrapped and the fluid flushed and replaced every season.

[davids2toys]

Can't help you with locating new caps. Maybe do a Google search. I use Valvoline syntec with my brakes and Wilwood high-temp with the clutch. Lines are wrapped and the fluid flushed and replaced every season.

Why the two different types, and is the wilwood dot3 or 4...also, where is the most economical place to get this stuff? expensive?