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Thread: Light switch fuse rating?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Heflin, Alabama, USA.
    Posts
    391

    Question Light switch fuse rating?

    Hey y'all -

    Cooked the fuse in the headlight switch last week after running on high beams for a few miles. Of course, I forgot to replace the fuse, and wound up 14 miles from home with no lights... but that's another story.

    Question is: what is the correct amp rating for the headlight fuse? Dad's has a 10 A, but is prone to burn out, especially if he uses the "passing" function on the dimmer stalk. Mine has a 15 A, and immediately toasted a spare 10 A I put in last night (I assume the meatball lamps account for the extra draw). I've searched the archives, and it looks like folks are running everything from 10 A up to 25 A. What is the proper and - more importantly - SAFE fuse to run? I don't want to melt down the switch or any wiring!

    Also, an update on gauge issues. Temperature gauge was giving low and unstable readings when we got the car. Situation is fixed: replaced 160 deg t-stat with 180 deg, and moved gauge sending unit from the intake tap closest to the water neck over to the intake tap nearest the driver side cylinder head (factory Ford location for the temp sender). Now we get "normal" readings see-sawing between about 175 & 185.

    Next on the agenda: fix the headlights, and get the oil temp gauge hooked up!

    Thanks!
    Zach Butterworth
    289 FIA #9367

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    W. Suffield, Ct., USA.
    Posts
    423
    zach, replaced mine 4 years ago with a 20 amp and havent had a problem since. tape an extra fuse to the wires coming out of the switch so you`ll have a spare when you need it. later, brian.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    paso robles, ca, USA.
    Posts
    82
    try getting a "slow blow fuse". my fuse popped the second time i turned on the lights replaced it with the same amperage slow blow fuse, 15 A .i think, and no problems. i would check for you but am too sick to even think about going outside right now. you can get them at most hardware stores.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Heflin, Alabama, USA.
    Posts
    391
    OK - got some 15's and some 20's, so we're in business. Thanks guys!

    Also, speedo gear came in from Mike Forte's, got it installed, and got the oil temp sending unit wire installed. So, I should hopefully (fingers crossed!) have my instruments all functional now.

    Thanks again!
    ZACH
    Zach Butterworth
    289 FIA #9367

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Southbury CT
    Posts
    402
    I blow the fuse immediately if i pull the stick towards me( turning on all 4 filaments at once). Pushing it towards the dash works perfect, no blown fuse. I am presently running a 15 amp...I will try the slow blo fuse. I did try a 20 and it wiorks great, but I am a little paranoid also about melting things, so I want to be safe. i know 15 is called out in the wiring diagram
    Dave
    93 Unique Motorcars 427 SC, 428PI with CJ heads, toploader 4 spd,jag rear with 354 gears, Red with white stripes.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Clinton, TN, USA.
    Posts
    1,287
    Dan Fowler I think melted his switch. I replaced mine and run a 20A seems to work fine others have used 30A.

    Ralph

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Posts
    75
    20A in mine

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Prince Frederick, Maryland, USA.
    Posts
    1,561
    I wired mine to a 30 amp relay and put a dimmer switch on the dash.
    The switch would get to hot for my comfort with a 25amp fuse.
    I had another issue with loosen low beams with the column dimmer.
    I am also running the P700 headlights. They are very bright.
    Tony
    Unique 427 #4279480 Precision Engine Machine Company 427 s/o 483.47 stroker close ratio toploader 3.31 jag rear

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