New Motor Gremlins

[bstandley1]

I finally got my car back with it's new 393 stroker motor and it sure has more power than the old one ... but I have an oil leak problem. I first noticed a puddle of oil directly under the bellhousing. I carefully checked for leaks from the valve covers, intake manifold, and oil pan and everything was as dry as a bone. I dropped the car off at the rebuilder and they replaced the rear main seal. I brought the car home last weekend and because of all the rain, only took it out once for about a thirty mile drive.

I took a look under the car tonight and found a thin(1/2") trail of oil starting at the bellhousing that trailed back approximately two feet. The oil appears to be coming from inside the bellhousing since there was no oil on the back of the oil pan or anywhere else. Any suggestions on what the source of the leak is? Thanks!

Bob

[Naumoff]

Is it engine oil, trans gear oil, or brake fluid (if HTOB)?

[souzape]

Tony- I'm fighting the same problem right now. Warning- if you don't get this run down and fixed and it's leaking inside the bellhousing you're going to destroy your clutch in fairly short order. My problem was the pressed plug at the back of the cam gallery leaking. You can't see this with the transmission in place (ain't it wonderful!). Just spend $1,100 to replace the clutch and plug....got the car back Friday evening, drove 30 miles and still found a puddle of oil under the car the Saturday AM. Needless to say I'm not real happy. It's going back today. Good luck.

Phil Souza

[daveg]

I have had this same problem since first running the car in April 2005.

http://www.uniquecobra.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7028

Haven't really resolved it. Have changed the rear-seal twice, mechanic changed all the plugs this last time around with some guidance from SA. (along with the clutch - was soaked in oil). Not sure on next steps from my side. I am probably just going to live with it. Let me know if you get it resolved.

I might have my mechanic try again next spring when he does my usual spring tune-up.

Dave

[bstandley1]

Tony,

I'm virtually certain that it's engine oil (don't have HTOB). I soaked up some of the leak with a paper towel then wiped the dipstick on an adjacent spot on the towel .... looked identical. Plus, prior to the engine rebuild, nothing was leaking from the bellhousing.
Phil,
I heed your warning; I had a new clutch installed during the process and I sure as heck don't want to ruin it.

Dave,

I feel your pain! I have zero tolerance for oil leaks ... though I'm reminded that the reason I have a new motor is directly related to an attempt to fix a timing cover seal leak ....

Thanks for your input. I'll keep you posted on the outcome.

Bob

[Brent]

Before you tear it apart get some flourescent oil dye (Tracerline Dye-Lite is one brand). Usually sold in a kit with 2 bottles, 1 for oils and hyd. fluids and another for water leaks. Clean all of the existing oil off as best you can.Add it to the engine oil per instructions, usually 1oz. to 1 quart, and run it. Then just look with a blue light or UV light for the fresh leak. The fluorescent dye appears green under the UV light, which makes it very easy to pinpoint the source of the leak. This dye will work with all types of fluids, oil, transmission fluid, fuel, coolant, and A/C refrigerant, and makes spotting a leak pretty easy. When seen under the UV light, the dye glows a bright greenish/yellow that can't be mistaken for anything else.

Good luck,

[bstandley1]

Brent,

That's a great idea. I'll see if I can find the product locally.

Bob

[RJacobsen]

Bob, sorry to hear that you are having problems, it sounds to me like they need to look at that rear main seal again. Is your engine block new enough to have a one piece seal?

[bstandley1]

Rod,

Unfortunately, it's an "oldie but goody", circa 1971 ....

How's your car coming along?

Bob

[Brent]

Should be easy to find.

About 29.00 for a whole kit or less for 1 bottle.

[davebetts]

Sounds like the rear main. Checked with dye in engine oil, confirmed with black light. Changed the rear main seal - still leaked. My first engine builder ended up buying it back (also had crack in water jacket). Seems the crank wasn't turned to the proper size, therefor just leaks. You can put as many seals as you like (rope or rubber), can't correct machine work.

This 427 (built by Southern Automotive) has been bullet proof and leak proof, three years old now. Bill Parham and his people know what they're doing with Ford Engines. Might want to give a call.

Good luck, but I'll put my $ on the rear main leaking.

Just a hint, drill an 3/16" hole in the bottom of your bell housing and the oil will leal out and not contaminate the clutch (did that too).

[bstandley1]

I picked up a bottle of Uview fluorescent dye from a local auto repair shop. They sold me an individual one ounce bottle for $12.95 and offered to use their fluorescent leak detection light to check the results! Nice people. I'll put the dye in tomorrow and when the rain subsides, take the car out for a drive. Thanks to all for your help.

Bob

[bstandley1]

Well, on Saturday I poured the dye in through the valve cover and took the car out on a hour long drive during one of the rare non raining moments (12" of rain in Seattle since the first of the month with no end in sight!).

I crawled under the car tonight with my black light to see what I'd find .... immediately spotted two leaks; the front seal and the center of the back of the oil pan .. the tracer dye made it a snap to find ... thanks to Dave and Brent for suggesting the fluorescent dye. Now I have to wait for the rain to stop to return the car to the shop ... sure wish they had checked for leaks when it was in the shop .. oh well.

Bob

[bstandley1]

Another chapter in my oil leak saga ....

I've had the rear main seal replaced as well as the front crankshaft seal. The good news is that the front seal no longer leaks. The bad news is that the rear main is still leaking, but at a lesser rate. Besides the oil leaking out of the bellhousing, I noticed that a small amount of oil is leaking down the back of the flexplate. Would a leaking rear main seal leak oil there?

I also had the shop install the cobrapack mufflers from Classic Chambered Exhaust. I ordered the 2.5" mufflers with packing and they work great! (BTW, they are not quieter than the stock mufflers)

Bob

[Naumoff]

At least some progress.

[ralphscott]

More than likely from the valve covers. The oil tends to pool in the lower rear on FEs (closest to the firewall) solution is a little black RTV. to supplement the gasket in that area.

Ralph

[will butterworth]

would mean a 351w, likely, block---the one we just built had three plugs we had to install in oil galleys at back of engine close to the rear of the cam but on backside of block. If one of those leaks then oilwill go down in the bellhousing,after it soaks the flywheel.That would be one more place for it to leak in addition to a rear seal. Cy loctite those plug threads good and tightened them good.Anyway, didn,t mean for an epistle here, but good luck, and keep us up on it.Will-alabama

[ralphscott]

Thanks Will I guess I focused on Dave Betts reply "My experience with 427..." and missed the 393 stroker info. Hope all is well with you and family!

Ralph

[bstandley1]

I'm thinking that my quest for a non leaking motor is a no go ... I have been having some negotiations with the engine builder and will see where that takes me. In the meantime, I think I'll add a 3/16" hole in the bottom of the bell housing for grins.

I also took care of the leaking front seal on the transmission. My local transmission guy recommended replacing the u-joints and the yoke. After is was all put together, the speedometer cable self destructed! Fortunately, I got a replacement from Rock Auto for under $12. Now it's time to drive!!!

Bob