A couple of questions

[jalley]

I took delivery of my 427 pallet kit in July and am just putting the final touches on now. Even with my limited mechanical experience it has been a pleasureable - and relatively painless experience. I have just a couple of questions. I am running a Windsor stroker with MSD 6AL, MSD billet distributor and Blaser II coil. I finsihed up most of the wiring over the weekend and turned on the battery, only to find I had nothing... In the instructions it said to use the (supplied) fuseable link for the power wire from the starter (battery) to the dash. I couldn't find such a link supplied with the kit so I purchased one from the parts store. It turned out that that's where the trouble was. I removed the link and hooked up the power wire directly. Everything worked as expected. Should I be concerned about not haveing a fuse in this line? If I need it, what is the fuse rating? The other question - given my setup does anyone know how to hook up the tach? And one final question - I have Trige wheels with Goodyear billboard tires. I was told that with the Trigos I needed to have the rear end shortend, and this required the adjustable coil-overs. To get the ride height where I like it (visually) I have to run the rear coil-overs at minimum preload. If I find that this is too soft, are there shorter springs available?

Thanks in advance for any assistance. The forums have been a great resource for tips and ideas throughout the project!

[eliminator]

I will answer your suspension question:

Yes you can get shorter springs if needed, with the car jacked up and no preload your springs should be 8" in length. I have never seen a Unique that required 6" or 7" springs on the rear. Generally a 427 body with coilovers takes a 8" spring rated at 350#, in my opinion this works the best. I think from there it is personal choice where you go, I think I would go toward 400# springs before going down to 300# which are light. The spring rate is scribed on the flat of the the spring, top or bottom. Dont try to adjust each side the same, wont work as one side will take more pre-load than the other to get the rear ride height equal as the tire sits in the tire well.

If you do have 10" springs on the rear get with Unique to swap them out, they are too long for the rear.

[jalley]

Thank you for the insight. I haven't measured the springs yet, but I'm surprised to hear that the preload would need to be different on one side versus the other to achieve symmetrical ride height. I was just concerned that having minimal preload may be too soft. If I jack up the preload the car just sits too high (in my opinion), but I'm sure it would handle better. I was just hoping to achieve a cetain look and still maintain proper drivability.

By the way, I fired it up for the first time last night and all went well except for a minor coolant leak at the water neck. it sure got the neighbor's attention!! Now I just have to constrain myself to take my time finishing the details and resist taking out before it's registered and insured.

I'll post pictures soon.

Thanks again to all that provided information here - it's been very helpful!

[scott h]

your tach hooks up to the msd box, there are several set up options in your msd instructions. if i remember correctly the fusible link is short section that looks like a thicker insulated wire (gray i think)

[Master]

The Link will keep your Assy from drawing to much power in case of a direct short. It will likely save your car from catching fire as well.

[jalley]

[jalley]

Sorry about the huge picture - my first time...

Thanks to all for the guidance on this site. It's almost done!! Took it around the neighborhood and WOW!

[pgermond]

Jerry,

It looks awesome..... don't worry, bigger is better (especially when you are talking cui and hp )

[Naumoff]

Jalley,
She looks great!

[ericeckhoff]

Looks great !

[Slither]

I like the dark pipes against the silver... sweet!

[jalley]

Thanks for the compliments... The Goodyear Tires throw rocks like I've never seen. Does anyone know where i can get clear static cling material - like the meatballs, only in clear? I need to protect the paint on the rear fenders, but I don't want to put on clear-bra material or anything that is sticky/semi-permanent.