Brake & Oil Line Assistance

[Ric S.]

Good day everyone,

Given that Alan is out running around with Mickey, I turn to you for guidance.

1. Brake bleeding: the front calipers have four fittings. I am ready to spill the Dot 5 into the master c. and bleed the systems. Do I have to bleed all four per wheel or just a top fitting? Just the top on the back calipers, right?

2. I am installing the remote oil system (SA 406) and after staring at the side of the block where the lines connect for a few hours with no corresponding action......how do all of those lines fit? Between the oil pressure sending line, the two oil fittings and the brake line, a little advice is appreciated. Does someone have a photo of the setup I can follow?

Any advice would be apprciated.

Ric

[Naumoff]

Ric,
On the Wilwoods Bleed them all. Bottoms first. On the rears just the tops.

Here is a diagram of the oil system. If you anot running a cooler just run the line that is going to the cooler to the remote filter.

[pgermond]

Tony hit the nail on the head!

[Ric S.]

Naumoff,

Thanks for the very helpful diagram and brake feedback. I also need to see or or get a better idea of how one literally routes the oil lines off the block. I am running a remote oil cooler and it appears extremely tight down on the block where the two oil lines and the oil pressure line come out. How does one route them around the brake line and steering column forward to the cooler run and also the one going up to the filter. Looks very tight.

Thanks

[homer]

I also have a SA406 - there is just enough room to attach te 90deg hose ends to the block plate - bill parham had told me to use stainless an/npt straight fitting into the plate to which the 90deg hose end is attached.

[pgermond]

Ric,

I'll try and post some photos tomorrow.

[Naumoff]

I ran my lines a little different than the Weavers do. Here are some pictures. It is tight between the block and the frame.
It has the straight fittings off the block and 90s on the hoses. I have to put the top hose on first and tighten it up before the bottom one goes on. I will try to find a pic of that.

[COBRAGAR]

read the wilwood brake bleeding procedure in frt you need to only bleed the 2 top bleeder screws per axles and not the bottom.

[eliminator]

On the Wildwood Brakes, do all 4, not 2.

[COBRAGAR]

i,m just saying whats on the the wilwood questions and answer page you have 4 bleeder screws per side it quotes to only bleed the 2 top bleeder screws per side . thats my understanding not here to stir things up.

[pgermond]

Ric,

I don't think there is any "right" way to route the lines.... just do what works. I posted some photos in my Gallery on CC because they won't fit here due to file size. These are the links for your viewing:
Block plate looking from the rear - http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/s...0&ppuser=15680
Remote oil filter - http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/s...0&ppuser=15680

I hope this helps & good luck!

[Naumoff]

RIC S.,

My oil block looks like Phil"s except the fittings are black.

[pgermond]

I need to replace my brake fluid (front and rear). Is there a way to do it without going through the whole process of disconnecting the brake bias bar (I hate crawling into that Foot box!!! )

Thanks in advance for any tips.

[TurnpikeBoy]

Phil, either use a MityVac and pull fluid thru the lines or get yourself a power bleeder system and push it thru. Either one doesn't involve moving the balance bar; however, you MUST keep close watch on the reservoir when you use a MityVac or you'll pull all the fluid out and new air in......yep, done that, been there.....


-Roger

[RJacobsen]

Ric I know your thread has to do with the brakes but I thought I would offer a word of caution concerning Dot 5 fluid and hydrolic clutch throw out bearings. Not sure of your setup but I'm pretty sure Dot 5 will ruin the seals in most HTB's

[Jerry Cowing]

Rick S,

If my memory serves me correctly, I don't believe DOT 5 is recommended for your rear Jag calipers or for your front Wilwoods. If I remember correctly, DOT 5 will cause the seals to deteriorate. I believe you need to use DOT 3 compatible fluids either regular or synthetic DOT 3 formula.

Not totally sure about this, but you may want to talk to Wilwood and Jaguar before putting DOT 5 in your system.

[Ric S.]

Very good feedback on the brake fluid grade. The last thing I want to do now is make that level of a mistake. So no 5. I am sure my notes from picking the car up have Dot 5 for both but I was so giddy about getting the car they could said Dot 3 and I missed it. I remember talking about Dot 5 that day but where else would you use it??? I will back track with the Weavers.

Great feedback from you all.

[brfutbrian]

theres 4 bleeders on each wilwood calipers so the caliper will work on either side of the car. you only need to bleed the top bleeders ,,,,,,,,,, unless the car is upside down. later , brian

[JeepSnake]

Phil,

When flushing the fluid on the FIA last summer, we borrowed a brand new Motive power bleeder from the Weavers. It works pretty well, but the odds of getting brake fluid everywhere are still pretty high. A few tips:

1) check the hose to master cylinder adapter plate seal. As delivered, it had NPT threads with no tape or dope of any sort on them. Some Permatex solved that problem.

2) carefully thread the adapter plate on the master cylinder. It has a tendency to partially crossthread, and you'll think you have it on tight - until fluid starts oozing out.

3) route the hose from the bleeder to the master cylinder under the wheelwell and up into the engine compartment. Do NOT route it over the fender. Fluid WILL leak, and it WILL run back down along the outside of the hose and onto the paint.

Other than that, it's just like a pump-up garden sprayer. We used the Valvoline DOT 3 synthetic stuff.

Oh, and by the way, let me just take this moment to share my feelings about how much I absolutely despise bleeding brakes. Yes, my Cobra brothers, brake fluid is an abomination, created in the fiery pit by demons bent on destroying paint jobs everywhere and wreaking havoc on finely detailed firewalls! Can I get an "amen?" All joking aside, I'd rather go to the dentist than have to crack into a brake system's piping. For some reason, I never have a problem working on the systems in our daily drivers. But, get into something where I want to protect the paint, and everything starts going wrong.

[pgermond]

Thanks for the suggestions..... I guess there's no "easy way" to do it.