Still Building

[Ric S.]

Hey Gang,

The build is moving along at a steady pace. Hopefully I have gone from projected years to a few months before the 99% mark is hit.

Now for the questions. I have the passenger seat in fine but............ I need the experts to sound off on the driver's side. I have the adjustable slide and as I stand and stare for hours at the situation I want to make sure I am on target with two things. One, the back carriage bolts holding the slide units in will be extremely close to the back crossmember on the body frame crossing under the seat area, right?? I measure it to be about 3/4 of an inch in front of the crossbar.

Two, the slide units have rather long studs that pass up into the bottom of the seat frame and then into the seat. Do I cut them off to avoid them being too far up into the actual seat (and my buttockal area) ?? Do they screw to the lower seat frame and not actually penetrate the bottom of the seat cushion frame? Oh so many questions..... I appreciate in advance the answers your experience will provide.

Thanks to all very much.

Ric

[Master]

As you can see by my title I miscalculated my sliders. I had thoughts that my Wife would enjoy driving the car but after one ride she was no longer interested. Soo if you have no one else that will be driving but you drill your holes in good locations.

[scott h]

you have alot of flexibility in the placement of the sliders just as long as they are parallel. If you think they are too close to the frame just move them a little. the plywood seats are forgiving in the fact you can always drill another hole or two if you need to realign. I bolted the sliders to the base of the seat not the removable part. my sliders may be different than yours but you seem to be on the right track, cut of the excess and counter sink the wood of the removable seat portion where the bolts contact. i used a combo of washers and a backing nuts to give the seat a little lift in front and for slider clearance., if you are using the line lock i found my seat got in the way, so i angled the seat slightly. i bolted carriage nuts to sliders, slipped on washers and positioned the seat, carefully lifting out the seat leaves the washers in place for drilling.

[sllib]

Ric;
I went down to Lowe's and went to the weird fastener drawer. I bought a handful of things that were threaded inside and had spikes on both sides that dig into the wood as you tighten them. I drilled the seat pan to match my sliders then screwed the bolts up from the bottom of the seat, into the fasteners. When everything was tight I marked and pulled the bolts one at a time and cut them. In retrospect threaded rod might have given me a little more wiggle room.
Bill Stradtner

[Aggressor]

I used a small drill bit to drill a reference hole from under the car into the approximate center of the seat area. From that point you can measure distance to frame/support members and transfer those dimensions topside into your interior. Your goal is to install your sliders parallel to each other, in the open space between the frame rails, and where your seat is positioned to look properly centered.
I inserted the 4 seat to floor mounting bolts through the sliders and then secured them temporarily with 4 nuts. I then mounted the sliders parallel to each other on the seat bottom. At this point you can place the seat in the car and move it about until it is centered and straight. The seat is raised on the 4 mounting bolts so you can visually verify that the bolts are resting within your identified open space. Mark the bolt positions on the floor, remove the seat, and drill your mounting holes. As you mount the seat to the sliders you may want to raise the front edge up about 1/2 inch with a spacer bar for a better seating position.
-Geary