Yokohama Avid ST are going away

[JeepSnake]

In this case, with the aluminum rims, I'd go with Clay's numbers provided by the manufacturer. However, in the absence of information from an OEM on a part, the SAE torque numbers will steer you right. Included is a link to a page with the chart.

If you have a factory service manual for an older model car, it will sometimes have the SAE chart as an appendix. They'll have a note somewhere to the effect that: "When torque value is not supplied in this manual for a specific fastener, refer to the SAE specs herein." It's a handy piece of info.

http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/specs/bolts/SAE_bolts.html

Simply put, the point of torquing the bolt is to either elastically compress the material of the parts being clamped or elastically stretch the material in the bolt, either of which will serve to put the bolt in tension, thus keeping the assembly together.

So many factors can cause torque numbers to vary (lube on the threads, lube on the underside of the bolt head, gasket sealer, corrosion, etc.) that many have dropped torque in favor of actually measuring the bolt elongation. Or, in the case of OEM's, going to "torque-to-yield" bolts, particularly on headbolts. In other words, you tighten the bolt beyond the point where it will spring back to it's original length; once you pass that point, the clamping force will not increase, thus all the headbolts will have a nearly identical clamping force, reducing the chances of warpage and head gasket leaks. (Once a TTY headbolt has been tightened to spec, it goes into the scrap bin when you take it loose. Generally can't reuse them, though some people get away with it at times.)

[davids2toys]

In this case, with the aluminum rims, I'd go with Clay's numbers provided by the manufacturer. However, in the absence of information from an OEM on a part, the SAE torque numbers will steer you right. Included is a link to a page with the chart.

If you have a factory service manual for an older model car, it will sometimes have the SAE chart as an appendix. They'll have a note somewhere to the effect that: "When torque value is not supplied in this manual for a specific fastener, refer to the SAE specs herein." It's a handy piece of info.

http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/specs/bolts/SAE_bolts.html

Simply put, the point of torquing the bolt is to either elastically compress the material of the parts being clamped or elastically stretch the material in the bolt, either of which will serve to put the bolt in tension, thus keeping the assembly together.

So many factors can cause torque numbers to vary (lube on the threads, lube on the underside of the bolt head, gasket sealer, corrosion, etc.) that many have dropped torque in favor of actually measuring the bolt elongation. Or, in the case of OEM's, going to "torque-to-yield" bolts, particularly on headbolts. In other words, you tighten the bolt beyond the point where it will spring back to it's original length; once you pass that point, the clamping force will not increase, thus all the headbolts will have a nearly identical clamping force, reducing the chances of warpage and head gasket leaks. (Once a TTY headbolt has been tightened to spec, it goes into the scrap bin when you take it loose. Generally can't reuse them, though some people get away with it at times.)

Thanks for the link. All I have to do is figure out what I have for studs.
Is there a service manual for our Cobras, sure wiould make things much easier!