Need a lift kit!

[RonJ]

After last nights spirited ride I have discovered I may need to install a lift kit on the Cobra! I retuned home and was going through the typical post romp inspection, you know cleaning off dead bugs reflecting on how much fun I had and how darn lucky I was to be able to go out and drive this fantastic automobile. When I noticed drip, drip, drip coming from the oil pan underneath. I figured the drain bolt must have worked its way loose since I just retorqued the pan last week. So I grabbed the jack and hoisted the mistress up in the air so I could wriggle my large butt under her to snug down the bolt when I saw that wasn't the issue at all! I had gotten a little carried away while driving and scraped a hole in the oil pan at the rear of the pan!! Oh sh%# that's a $335 Canton pan! Now I get to drain all the oil out I just put in last week, drop the pan and hope like heck I didn't wear it so thin I won't have enough thickness to be able to weld it! I suppose I should be thankful I don't have an aluminum pan since I don't have a TIG setup.
Now I wonder if I should go with the Superlift or Skyjacker lift kit??

[weaver]

You might want to raise the car a bit, I think your car has adjustable coil over shocks and springs.

Alan

[Naumoff]

A big block Unique.
I would check the spring rate on the front.
I had to change mine to 550 lbs. springs and that solved the pan scraping problem.

[RonJ]

After draining the oil I changed 2 weeks prior to my oil pan adventure, welding the pan and putting another $40 of fresh oil in it. I got out the tape measure and went to work. Oil pan clearance was 2"!! Frame was 4" off the ground all the way around. I've been playing with the height which is a pain here because everytime I adjust it and go out for a ride to settle the suspension I have to tip toe a little over a mile down the gravel road before I hit the hard surface. I cringe when I hear the gravel bouncing off the underside of the car!
I haven't touched the rear springs yet. Currently I'm up to 3" of oil pan clearance which makes me feel a bit better but I still will play around with fabricating some type of skid plate for a little more protection. The frame rails now are 6" in the front and 5 1/2 in the rear. I'm a bit puzzled as to how the rear came up that much without touching it? I'll probably be replacing the rear tire at the end of the season. The new size tires are 1/2" taller and will give me another 1/4" in height if my thinking is correct. I'm debating over whether or not to go ahead and crank up the rear another 1/4" before I go get the camber checked or just leave it alone and wait until I put the new tires on to see what they do. I was pleasantly surprised after all that adjusting the toe in (according to the good ole string method) is 1/16 front and rear!

[Naumoff]

Jon, once you get your ride height where you want it you will have to get your alignment done. I would wait for your new tires and getting your ride height where you want it then get a four wheel alignment.
When you raise or lower your suspension it changes your alignment.
I would see what # springs you have up front too.

Can you get the alignment spec's from the company that set the suspension up?

Unique recommends 3.5" to the bottom if the Canton pan.