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Thread: Brake Lights

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Dover, NH
    Posts
    30

    Brake Lights

    I noticed (was told) that my brake lights were not working yesterday at a car show. All other lights work, parking, headlights, directionals....

    Can anyone tell me what and where to look to fix; I suspect a faulty or loose connection (switch).... Pictures would be helpful...

    Thanks a bunch!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Gadsden, Al , USA.
    Posts
    1,543
    Brake light switch #SLS27

    Alan

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Niceville, FL, USA.
    Posts
    137
    Don't start replacing parts until you have isolated the problem. Start with the easiest and simplest fix first. In your case, start with the bulbs. Put an Ohm meter on the bulbs and see if the circuit is complete. If no, change the bulbs. If still no lights, check for electrical current to the bulb recepticle, etc., etc.
    Jer

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Calgary
    Posts
    145
    First thing and easiest is to check the brake light switch which if you car is like mine is a pressure switch mounted on the driver's side inner front fender. Just pull both wires off and fit a jumper wire between the two wires. If this doesn't work then check to see if power is getting to one of the wires to the switch. The bulbs are unlikely since typically only one will burn out. My system has two round lights on each side hooked up in parallel so both come on with tail lights and also with brake lights. You didn't mention your signal lights if they work or not since they use the same elements of the bulb as brake lights. If they don't work either then you might have a problem with a module installed under the dash that are normally sold for adding trailer connections to cars. Mine had failed though one brake light still worked. Cut out the old one and bought one from the local auto supply for about $25 but noted that it is only rated for 2.1 amps which coincidentally is the current draw of a normal brake light bulb, so replaced one bulb on each side with a LED equivalent that draws an insignificant current. You can't change both to LED since they don't draw enough to make your flasher work.

    Hope this helps.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Dover, NH
    Posts
    30
    Arrow...

    Thanks to Alan, I realized I may have had a loose white wire that connects to the sensor...

    Need to get my wife to see if that cured it; I will let you all know...

    thanks again,

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Dover, NH
    Posts
    30
    All set!!!

    Loose Wire to Sensor; Alan nailed it!

    thanks again,

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Roseville, CA, USA.
    Posts
    2,323
    That Alan...... he's a pretty sharp guy
    Phil

    427 Roadster, #4279436
    FE Specialties FE
    3:31 and Toploader (wide ratio)

    Roseville (N.Cal)

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Prince Frederick, Maryland, USA.
    Posts
    1,561
    Quote Originally Posted by rosco View Post
    All set!!!

    Loose Wire to Sensor; Alan nailed it!

    thanks again,

    Usually it is the loose nut behind the wheel.
    Tony
    Unique 427 #4279480 Precision Engine Machine Company 427 s/o 483.47 stroker close ratio toploader 3.31 jag rear

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Dover, NH
    Posts
    30
    Tony,

    I guess I can't argue that

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Prince Frederick, Maryland, USA.
    Posts
    1,561
    That is what I thought.
    Tony
    Unique 427 #4279480 Precision Engine Machine Company 427 s/o 483.47 stroker close ratio toploader 3.31 jag rear

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