Do math before doing time

[Tony Radford]

It may sound harder than it really is, but after reading the issues associated with pull-type slaves, I'm glad I stuck with the pusher. At least it doesn't require a connection to the frame (of course I say that now that it's working).

Spd4me - during the course of experientation, I did like Tony and replaced my factory-issue 3/4" Wilwood master with the high-capacity 1" Wilwood master due to my inability to get enough slave travel for full disengagement. The 1" was too difficult to use, so I replaced it with the 3/4" version of the high-capacity Wilwood master. It has just enough additional travel which extends to the slave and allows full disengagement. On the Wilwood spec sheet, the total piston travel difference between the small master and the large one looks to be insignificant. But in practice, it works great. The clutch pedal travel is a bit long, but pedal pressure is similar to the original small master.

[spd4me]

Tonies- you'd think after all the experimentation that goes on, there would emerge a bullet proof solution. I noticed in the pictorial of installing clutch fork that your opening in the bellhousing is larger than mine. I sure hate to start something that seems simple and ends up a major repair. Oh well, maybe alittle grinding isn't so bad.

[Naumoff]

It depends on how the planets are aligned at the time of your build and your sign under the zodiac. Cars built in the year of the Rat and monkey are doomed. Best in the year of the rabbit and snake.

Go cleanse your ora and then get your palm read before you start this project.

When you are finished you must consume mass quantities and smoke a fine cigar.

A lucky charm or a rabbit's foot but not both should be in your right front pocket.

Then go to confession afterwards, even if your not Catholic.

[JeepSnake]

A larger brake line will result in less fluid pushed into slave. The idea behind hydraulics is pressure. Small force can move larger objects. The m/c needs to create enough pressure to push clutch springs. Increasing the line size reduces the pressure so it would take more imput force (foot pressure) to move.

Sorry, but that statement about line size is just plain wrong.

If you've got all the gasses bled out of the system (thus, no compressibilities), you can have a 6" diameter line and the brakes or clutch will still work just fine. The volume moved at the master cylinder has to equal the volume moved at the slave cylinder in a sealed system. Take a look at Tony Naumoff's diagram and note that nowhere does the line size come into play in the calculations. This is how it works.

The ONLY way that line size can hurt you is if you make your lines just waaaaay too small, which is very hard to do dealing with the miniscule flows involved here. In that case, you'd have a hard pedal and a very slow-acting clutch as the pressure would build in the master (due to the line restriction), then take a while to bleed through the line and equalize (thus moving) the slave pressure.

[will butterworth]

finally secured the wilwood slave--a pull type--the nuts behind the clutch arm kept working loose, most aggravating, but thats how these rascals work.Working fine last couple years.Pull-type was hard to bleed and get to work-operational, had a learning curve to overcome.Got in dangdest thunderstorm last sat. night --lightning was awesome. Just hunkered down under sonic cover.Pigeon forge--am looking forward to, we haven,t done much at all this summer with cars. Helping Cy build house, hung doors sat., cleaned up outside yesterday, had cramps in feet and legs from heat last night. House coming along good. And grand baby girl, she,s pretty.Will-alabama

[spd4me]

Tony R - I understand the amount of fluid you move in the master will be the same moved in slave. I think it's the pressure difference between using a larger or smaller line. I've put the question to the tech at hotrodheaven.com and hope to get an answer soon. My tech friend with the American LeMans series says increasing the master and increasing the size of line is going in the wrong direction. It may be like a squirt gun with a tiny hole will shot farther than with a big hole cause the pressure is greater.
Bob

[spd4me]

Got a reply from Dean at hotrodheaven and he said once the line is full, the larger size line (AN3 up to AN4) won't affect pressure.
Bob

[spd4me]

For anyone that's been reading this thread, I put back on my compact 3/4" bore master cylinder and my 7/8" bore slave and I can now drive my car again. There still is a problem with the clutch not disengaging enough. I think my problem is going to be with the clutch fork bracket needing to be moved closer to clutch by way of adding spacers.

[Tony Radford]

Bob, if you replace the little 3/4" master with the larger Wilwood 3/4" master, you should get the travel range you need. You are experiencing exactly what I did prior to the retrofit. No mods are required other than the fact that the master/slave tubing comes into the larger master on the end as opposed to the top. I have no disengagement issues anymore. The master is a stock item at Summit Racing here in Atlanta.

[spd4me]

Tony - I saw that wilwood makes a large 3/4" reservoir. I already have a new line I made up when I had the 1". The thing I don't like is how hard it is to get the lid on and off. I think I'm going to drive car this fall and enjoy the weather and change out this winter. I really need to figure how to get a spacer bar between fork and bellhousing. Do you ever just get tired of fooling around with something?