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Thread: Rear Swaybar install

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Dacula, GA, USA.
    Posts
    450

    Rear Swaybar install

    OK, so I may embark on the install this weekend. My thought is to back the car on to a pair of those steel ramps that will pick the back end up 12" to 18" or something like that. I assume that as long as the car is sitting on the back tires, I can do the install and adjustment from there. I understand that I have to move one of the rear shocks out of the way. Aren't the springs loaded when the shocks are mounted? If I were to unbolt the bottom fastener of the shock, wouldn't it explode like and IED?
    427SC, Torch Red / white stripes
    427 Windsor Stroker from Southern Automotive
    Delicious example of Beauty + Power.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    St. Augustine, FL
    Posts
    398

    Exclamation Hoboy.....

    You are gonna be fine. No, the shocks won't explode - not even like a firecracker. The springs aren't gonna fly around the garage either - the shock/spring package is assembled like a nut on a bolt, and has to be unscrewed to come apart.

    You're good. Keep the wheels on the ramps, keep the shocks on the car because they don't need to come off, and try to stay awake on the creeper as you install the bar.
    Yeehah

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Newton, NJ, USA.
    Posts
    174

    Rear Sway Unstall

    Just did this installation last week end. Remove the nut and washer from the lower shock mount bar and move the shock eyelet over with a bar. Did not really need to take it all the way off to get the sway bar bolt in. It's tight but you can do it. Make sure the adustment is in nuetral (everything is connected but the adjustment bolt should be able to slip out if you removed the nut). Tightened all and don't forget to bent the star shaped washer over the nut to lock and prevent futher movement. Everything fit perfectly. Once again, when the Weavers send you the requested parts, you get everything you need right down to the last washer and nut.
    Good luck!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Dacula, GA, USA.
    Posts
    450
    Holy smurf! An hour, eh? I spent all day getting that thing installed. Some of that was running around town looking for some hardware. I ended up drilling and tapping a 5/16" fine thread. It sinched up OK. I put one of the big washers in the wrong place, but screw it. No way I'm taking it back off. I did discover that I could back the shock nut off almost all the way and move the shock over. It did worry me a bit that the rod adjustments were perfect. But with the full weight of the car on the tires, I was able to move the fasteners around. Hell, it's done and I ain't looking back unless I hear funny noises or it tracks sideways.
    427SC, Torch Red / white stripes
    427 Windsor Stroker from Southern Automotive
    Delicious example of Beauty + Power.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Dacula, GA, USA.
    Posts
    450

    Works Great!

    I took a twisty route to work this morning which includes an interstate on-ramp that puts you into a hard right turn at the end. I could always hear my tire rubbing the fender well when punching out of the curve. I considered this a good test of the effects of the anti swaybar. I wasn't disappointed. I pushed it hard this morning and body roll was insignificant. It looks like it does what I wanted it to do. Thanks Alan and Maurice. Now I'm ready for Tail of the Dragon.
    427SC, Torch Red / white stripes
    427 Windsor Stroker from Southern Automotive
    Delicious example of Beauty + Power.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    El Dorado Hills, CA, USA
    Posts
    32
    I purchased the rear swaybar from the Weavers back in December, and I finally got around to installing it.

    Using the advice here, I unbolted two of the rear shocks and was able to get the two sway bar bolts installed.

    I also purchased the poly bushings.

    I assume that if the rear sway bar was not included/installed when the Cobra was ordered/built, I have to drill four holes into the frame, and use four 5/16" self tapping bolts to mount the poly bushings?

    Any advice here would be appreciated, as I'd hate to start drilling into the frame and screw it up!

    What's the best way to mount the poly bushings?

    Thanks!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    St. Augustine, FL
    Posts
    398
    JM, the self-tappers will work fine. Others seem to have had success with tapping the frame and using machine bolts too - but I can't speak to that since I used self-tapping hex head screws. Just be certain to drill holes big enough for the shank of the screw ONLY - tight fits here are necessary. Locate the brackets out about an inch, to inch-and-a-half in from the corner of the rear crossframe member.

    That's really about all that's necessary.



    -Roger
    Yeehah

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Harrisburg, PA, USA.
    Posts
    657

    Poly Mounts

    My rear sway bar was originally a factory mount. On my trip to the 2002 Homecoming I noticed a thumping noise coming from the rear. After many short stops to finally identify the source of the thumping, I pulled off Interstate 81 South in Virginia and removed my rear bar. Two of the 5/16 inch bolts had sheared off in the frame. One side of the bar was loose. Upon arriving at Unique I put it on the lift and redrilled/tapped four 3/8 inch holes in the frame. No problems since. The day before my drive I got on the car fairly hard (showing-off) and parked it for the night. I barely got out of Harrisburg (10 minutes drive) before I heard the first thump.

    I don't know how much stress the rear mounts experience but you may want to install 3/8's.

    Good call on poly bushings.

    - Geary

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Dacula, GA, USA.
    Posts
    450
    I was a bit concerned over using self-tapping screws as the material is a bit thin and self-tappers have a course thread. I used 5/16" fine thread bolts after drilling and tapping the holes to get as many threads as possible. So far, so good.
    427SC, Torch Red / white stripes
    427 Windsor Stroker from Southern Automotive
    Delicious example of Beauty + Power.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Prince Frederick, Maryland, USA.
    Posts
    1,561
    Geary, that is because you have a big block. Tony and TURNPIKE BOY should be fine.


    (this is to pull Roger's chain ) LOL
    Tony
    Unique 427 #4279480 Precision Engine Machine Company 427 s/o 483.47 stroker close ratio toploader 3.31 jag rear

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    St. Augustine, FL
    Posts
    398

    Talking Yahhhh........

    I'm old and gots lots of slack in the chain....you gotta pull for a while before you gettin results from here, old son

    Besides, another testimonial for small blocks...... no weight to break stuff when ya just puttin the hammer to it.
    Yeehah

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Prince Frederick, Maryland, USA.
    Posts
    1,561
    OK old daddy, too tired to pull anymore tonight. LOL

    I went for a cruise today and I will have to check what I broke tomorrow.

    Absolutely gorgeous day here in Maryland today.
    Tony
    Unique 427 #4279480 Precision Engine Machine Company 427 s/o 483.47 stroker close ratio toploader 3.31 jag rear

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    El Dorado Hills, CA, USA
    Posts
    32
    I drilled and tapped four 3/8" bolts (as suggested) and finished installing the rear swaybar, and took it out for a drive yesterday (Saturday, 2/21).

    I was suprised to notice that the Cobra felt much better no only when cornering, but when on the gas.

    Now that I think about it, there is a torque effect when on the gas, so feeling more stable when on the gas makes sense.

    Anyway, my Unique feels better all around - can't wait to take it to the track and see how it feels when really pushed!

    Thanks to all for their input and recommendations.

    Quote Originally Posted by jmillington View Post
    I purchased the rear swaybar from the Weavers back in December, and I finally got around to installing it.

    Using the advice here, I unbolted two of the rear shocks and was able to get the two sway bar bolts installed.

    I also purchased the poly bushings.

    I assume that if the rear sway bar was not included/installed when the Cobra was ordered/built, I have to drill four holes into the frame, and use four 5/16" self tapping bolts to mount the poly bushings?

    Any advice here would be appreciated, as I'd hate to start drilling into the frame and screw it up!

    What's the best way to mount the poly bushings?

    Thanks!

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