Parking brake help, I think I lost my pads

[davids2toys]

My car is a 93. Actually the caliper does not look t5otally impossible to get out, the ebrake , I cant tell how to get it out, I just read in one publication that is descibing how to service them, they are talking about tie plates, whatever they are!

how old is your car? in my case i i had the leak from the time i got the car. butch did what was necessary to replace/fix the seal, i had to send him the stub shaft. now that winter is coming you'll have alot of time to fix the problem before spring. I agree that the repairs would be easier with the center section out of the car but I am not sure of the trade off between removing the diff and the time it takes to remove the caliper, also I installed my parking brake after the body was on, once again not as easy but it is just time and patience.

[nolastyankee]

If memory serves, e-brake calipers attach to the standard brake calipers with 2 bolts per side at the top of the standard brake caliper. The tie plates are wishbone shaped and function as psuedo-return springs. They bolt down from the top. The entire e-brake assembly sits at an angle so 'side' and 'top' are somewhat relative.

The pad should be accessible from the top underneath the tie plate.

[richardu]

Brian: Thanks for the info on the rear brake pads. I pulled my current pads out of the rear calipers with no problem. The calipers weren't retracted. EBC Greenstuff rear pads sound like the answer I'm looking for. Where can I find the part number for these pads, or do I have to just ask around for EBC pads that fit an XJ6 rear caliper set up? Have a great thanksgiving!

Dick

[davids2toys]

I have not been able to get near this yet,just to busy around here, between the neck injection yesterday and the approaching holiday.
I do remember seeing two bolts on top of the caliper, also a swivel pin sort of setup for the levers to rotate on.
The outboard pads have about an 1/8 inch thickness, the inboard ones have about 1/4 inch, I don't know if this normal or not...but I am thinking of changing all the pads, it looks pretty obvious to me that the pistons will need to be retracted, is their any any special advice you could offer considering I will be doing this without removing the caliper.
Take care and have a great Thanksgiving...Dave

If memory serves, e-brake calipers attach to the standard brake calipers with 2 bolts per side at the top of the standard brake caliper. The tie plates are wishbone shaped and function as psuedo-return springs. They bolt down from the top. The entire e-brake assembly sits at an angle so 'side' and 'top' are somewhat relative.

The pad should be accessible from the top underneath the tie plate.

[nolastyankee]

Richard,
The Greenstuff pads are available through Summit racing, I'll get you the number and respond this weekend. I have the box on my workbench. My old pads came out pretty easily too, the challenge was getting the new pads in if they are thicker. I used two 2" x 1/4" steel plates about 8" in length and created a sort of "tweezer" to compress the pistons back into the caliper.

Imagine, if you will, the two steel plates with a 2"x4" wood block between them at one end, the caliper body and piston between the plates at the other end, and a large C clamp in the middle. I cranked down on the C clamp and compressed the piston. It's not a perfect tool but seemed to work for me. The hardest part is getting all the pieces clamped together and on caliper in the right place while working under a car on jack stands!

[davids2toys]

Richard,
The Greenstuff pads are available through Summit racing, I'll get you the number and respond this weekend. I have the box on my workbench. My old pads came out pretty easily too, the challenge was getting the new pads in if they are thicker. I used two 2" x 1/4" steel plates about 8" in length and created a sort of "tweezer" to compress the pistons back into the caliper.

Imagine, if you will, the two steel plates with a 2"x4" wood block between them at one end, the caliper body and piston between the plates at the other end, and a large C clamp in the middle. I cranked down on the C clamp and compressed the piston. It's not a perfect tool but seemed to work for me. The hardest part is getting all the pieces clamped together and on caliper in the right place while working under a car on jack stands!

This is great idea, I was just looking at this wondering about room for a C clamp.
I was just talking to the people at this site, very helpful, and they have all kinds of exploded views and diagrams. He also said they do mail out rebuilt calipers with the core exchange

www.captainjaguarscathouse.com

He was telling me all they do is put a big pair of channel locks on it and squeeze. I have a feeling it wont be that easy! As I was saying earlier, I have 1/4 inch of material on the inboard pad and 1/8 inch on the outboard, he said I should rebuild the calipers..I was going to just replace the pads and be done with it...is this normal on our cars, or should they be wearing equally?

Also interested in these Greenstuff brake pads, are yours street or race? We are talking rear pads right? I went on Summitt, they appear to be full organic and were around 99.00 for a set, but they dont say if a set is two or four, and I think they may have been for the front. The site I mentioned above sells the complete set of jaguar OEM pads for the rear for 34.00, if yours perform much better, I have no problem paying more!
I know you had said I would have a dana center section but from what I am reading, I think I have a Salisbury unit...it has a drain plug, and the Dana would not. Am I misunderstanding something here?

About another book/manual, this guy said it sounded like a series 3 XJ6 between 1980 and 1987 would be good referance for our rear end and brake setups, at least for mine anyway.
Dave

[richardu]

Brian: Thanks for the information on the Greenstuff rear pads. When you have the chance I'd appreciate the part number. I understand the design of your tweezer device. Sounds like it would work great to compress the pistons. I'm at my father-in-law's place in Grosse Point, Michigan this weekend cooking turkey and hangin out with family. I plan on getting back to the car next week.

David: Your research on the rear calipers is great. I plan to dig into it in detail.

Thanks to both of you for the ideas and help. Have a great Thanksgiving!!

Dick

[davids2toys]

Just purchased this book last night on Amazon. 7.00 plus 3.99 shipping...a bargain!
Jaguar XJ6, 1968-1986 (Haynes Manuals) [Paperback] by Haynes, John. It covers series 1,2 and 3. So that should help me out along with the other sources I am finding.
I also made a bunch of word docs from Jag Lovers tech articles and put it in my BRAKE folder, along with detailed blow up pics of the rear and brakes from the Jag lovers and that Capt Jaguar site.
I would be more than happy to post these if you would like, if it is possible of course! Let me know.
Happy Thankgiving Guys!

[nolastyankee]

Richard,
Greenstuff pads that fit Unique brakes are p/n DP2101. You can download a .pdf from EBC of all their part numbers for Jag that will let you cross reference DP2101 against their Yellowstuff and Redstuff numbers as well. Let me know how it goes!

BTW, the best price and availability I found for pads was at Summit. Many carry EBC, but this Jag part number seems to be out of stock alot. It took me 3 weeks to get mine, that was better than the next best supplier by a month.

[arrowdriver]

A friend of mine who has worked on Jags for years told me that the easiest way to do the rear brakes etc is to drop the rear end out of the car first. I don't know if any of you have tried this?

[richardu]

Brian:
Thanks for the pn/source info for the jag rear brake pads. At this point even a three week wait to order them isn't a problem. With the snow we received last night, I probably won't be on the road any time soon.
Thanks again and Happy Holidays to you and yours.

Dick

[eliminator]

The easiest way is to remove the caliphers. It would take much more time and effort to drop the rear differential. I have done both for different reasons. The two bolts that hold the caliphers to the differential are safety wired, this is a little annoying but can be done. The Craftsman or other tool makers gear wrenches are a must in removing the caliphers, I forgot the size, 9/16 or 5/8, not metric.

[davids2toys]

The easiest way is to remove the caliphers. It would take much more time and effort to drop the rear differential. I have done both for different reasons. The two bolts that hold the caliphers to the differential are safety wired, this is a little annoying but can be done. The Craftsman or other tool makers gear wrenches are a must in removing the caliphers, I forgot the size, 9/16 or 5/8, not metric.

Mine are not even safety wired at all . In fact the only thing I see safety wire on is the two bolts going thru the control arm on each side of the differential, and the forward bolt on both sides has a shim and that is also safety wired. I wonder if all the bolts around the stub axle are supposed to be safety wired, they have the heads with the hole provision for safety wire!
The wrench size is 5/8.
I want to just take the calipers off, I dont want to get involved in dropping the whole rear at this time. To much learning curve at one time for me.
Would you know the minimum spec on the rotors, I want to make sure they are good before I proceed. So far I am dong new parking brake pads, rebuilt calipers and new pads. If the rotors need replacing, can this also be done without dropping the rear?
Thanks

[nolastyankee]

David,
If you can get the calipers free the rotors are easy. They are also captured at the bottom by the rear control arm if I remember correctly so you may need to remove that as well.

[eliminator]

The rotors are easy to remove once the caliphers are removed. Just take the 4 nuts loose at the stub axle that attach to the drive axle and let the hubs pivot down to pull the drive axle flange away from the stub axle. May have to loosen the big nuts on the hub axle shaft so it will move easier. The minimum rotor thickness is stamped on the rotors. Be sure to remember the placement of the shims in relation to the rotor, general 2 on the inside and the outside shims (?) different as they are used to set the rear camber.

[davids2toys]

Thanks Brian and Rick,
The knowledge on this forum is truely amazing!
I am totally new to a jag rear and I have been afraid to touch it, but I will be soon, unfortunately.
Just went out there with a mirror and flash light to check it out. Yes it does say BREMBO 11.4 min thickness. I checked the thickness of the rotor with a micrometer, it measured .504 inches. 11.4mm comes out to be .450 inches, so I guess I'm good. There is no ridge on the edge of the rotor so I am assuming the pad comes all the way out to the edge. I may replace them anyway since I am there, just to start off all new.
I think if I have to remove the rotors, it would just make it coming thru the bottom of the opening in the control arm. The rotor seems to be about 10 1/4 wide, and the opening is about the same.
Upon further inspection, my pistons on the calipers are all rusty on the outer surface and I do not see a seal at all, I thought there was a seal that moved out with the piston to protect it?
Any recommendations on a good company to buy the calipers from? I remember reading a bunch of stuff about chrome pistons, SS pistons, and different type of seals.

[eliminator]

I have never seen a Unique Car that needed the rear rotors replaced by wear. Not that much wear on the rear of a light car. I would clean them and scuff them up and that would be it. I would just take the caliphers off and clean them, strip the old surface, remove the rust, paint them with a good quality paint, rebuild them, and put them back on. Be carefull that you don't get brake fluid on the newly painted caliphers, the brake fluid will act like paint remover.Maurice has SS pistons and rebuild kits or you can purchase them elsewhere. Brake fluid can be flushed with denatured alcohol. The Wishbones are not a factor in removing the rotors.

[davids2toys]

I have never seen a Unique Car that needed the rear rotors replaced by wear. Not that much wear on the rear of a light car. I would clean them and scuff them up and that would be it. I would just take the caliphers off and clean them, strip the old surface, remove the rust, paint them with a good quality paint, rebuild them, and put them back on. Be carefull that you don't get brake fluid on the newly painted caliphers, the brake fluid will act like paint remover.Maurice has SS pistons and rebuild kits or you can purchase them elsewhere. Brake fluid can be flushed with denatured alcohol. The Wishbones are not a factor in removing the rotors.

Advice taken on the rotors. I have also decided on leaving the small leak on each side of the diff alone for now. I have been talking to XKs Jaguar parts, I think I am going to purchased rebuilt and sleeved GIRLING calipers, organic pads, and the related e brake pads and other items from them.
They sell a complete rebuilt stub axle assembly for 270.00 each side, and rotors are are only 20 or 30 bucks each. Probably will get done in the future, not now though. I figure if the leak gets bad enough I will do the stub axle kit, and at that time replace the rotors since they would have to come off anyway and they are cheap enough.
Also for general information, they sell a complete rear vented rotor kit, both sides for about 500.00.
So, when you say scuff them up, are you talking about the rotors turning under power with tires off the ground, or just by hand and turning the rotors by hand? Also, what would you use,I was thinking red scotchbrite.
Happy Holiday's.........Dave

[eliminator]

Just scuff the rotors up by hand, scotchbrite pad will work, emery cloth, ect.

You can send your rotors to Concourse West and have them drilled, go on their web sit to get the price.

IT'S LIKE EVERYTHING ELSE YOU CAN SPEND AS MUCH AS YOU WALLET WILL LET YOU ON ANY MAJOR COMPONET OF A CAR, ENGINE, DRIVE TRAIN, BRAKES, WHEELS, SUSPENSION, YOU NAME IT.

[davids2toys]

OK, thanks.
I hear ya on the $$$$$$ thing!
The guy @ XKS also said to put a 45 deg chamfer on the leading edge of the pads so they wont make any noise.
I am learning things along the way here, because I have seven bolt holes in the stub axle flange and 1 5/8 rather than 1 1/2 center to center bolt spacing on my ebrake retainer fork hold down bolts.... I have somewhere between 1980 and 1987 XJ-6