having problems with engine timing and MSD system

[traveler]

I have an MSD electrical system on my car with an MSD aluminum distributor .

I recently starting having problems with the timming on the engine not staying at the set position and it would advance to high or retard to low while driving the car . I was told by my mechanic that the distributor was sticking in place not allowing the proper advance .

I also noticed the car running hotter at times and my mechanic also told me the distributor not working correctly was most likely causing part of my over heating problem and I needed to change the distributor .

I am not a mechanic so I have to believe what he is telling me .

My question is if I am changing the MSD distributor should I change the MSD 6a box as well since it controls the distributor and could be causing the problem ?

Before I started having problems the temp never moved + or - 2 degrees either way from 180 on the open road or sitting in traffic on hot days . Now sitting at a stop light it will run over 200 . As soon as I start moving again it goes back down to 180 .

I am trying to get this problem corrected so I can drive my car to Pigeon Forge this year .

Any help or advise will be appreciated .

Traveler

[weaver]

I would call the MSD tech line and see what they say, your electronic module is probably bad. I wouldn't worry about the 6AL, if it were bad your engine wouldn't run.

Alan

[arrowdriver]

Most distributors have a means of lubrication of the centrifigal advance mechanism, the ones I have seen all have a wick in the center of the shaft that you can find by pulling off the rotor at the top of the shaft. You might try oiling this with some very light machine oil, best choice I think would be a light synthetic, and drive it for a while to see if this helps. First time I had this was a long time ago when my daily driver was a 65 Mustang and oiling the distributor solved the overheating problem as well as gaining power and mileage. I found it then by putting a timing light on and noted that I wasn't getting the full advance I should have.

Anyhow, before changing the distributor you might try oiling it.

[traveler]

Arrow Driver ,

Thanks for your response .

We did oil the distributor as you suggested . It ran better for about 25 miles and stuck again . Back came all the same old problems .

I am in Indonesia right now so as soon as I get home I think I will call MSD as Alan suggested and see what they have to say . I had problems with the 6al before and had to remove the rev limit module . The engine would almost shut down when I would start from a stop if I pushed it any at all .

Traveler

[souzape]

Had the same problem with my MSD. You will need to disassemble the distributor, thoroughly clean the inner shaft and lube it with a thin coat of light oil (Mobil 1 0W XX).This will probably have to be done on at least an annual basis. My episode destroyed the engine.

[lonnie]

Had the same problem with my MSD. You will need to disassemble the distributor, thoroughly clean the inner shaft and lube it with a thin coat of light oil (Mobil 1 0W XX).This will probably have to be done on at least an annual basis. My episode destroyed the engine.

Is this a problem with MSD distributors? Hope not just put one in.

[eliminator]

6 years and no problems on the MSD Pro Billet for the FE engine...solid lifter cam. Using the MSD Box and Epoxy filled coil also..

I run a 6,500 RPM chip and hit it ocassionaly.

[souzape]

Lonnie- I've been running the pro-billet distributor for about 4 years. Apparently, my experience was not unique. I also run a 6 AL2 box. You can bet I will be much more attentive to variations in seat of the pants power and overheating.

Phil

[Jim Harding]

6 years and no problems on the MSD Pro Billet for the FE engine...solid lifter cam. Using the MSD Box and Epoxy filled coil also..

I run a 6,500 RPM chip and hit it ocassionaly.

Rick, what kind (manufacture) of dizzy gear are you using? Or should I say, how often do you have to swap it out for a fresh one? The bronze ones seem to last a year, maybe two if you're not putting on a lot of mileage.

[RJacobsen]

Rick, what kind (manufacture) of dizzy gear are you using? Or should I say, how often do you have to swap it out for a fresh one? The bronze ones seem to last a year, maybe two if you're not putting on a lot of mileage.

Only last a year or two??? sounds like you have the wrong gear for the type of camshaft your using. I think that you should be using a cast gear with a solid lifter cam and the bronze one with the roller cams?, double check this because I'm not positive, but I'm pretty sure it makes a difference.

[pbrown]

You can use a bronze or poly gear with any cam. Just don't use them with high volume or high pressure oil pumps. It too much load on the gear.

Even better is to use a cast gear with a cast cam and a steel gear with a steel cam. A good rule of thumb is that a flat tappet cam us typically cast and thew roller cam is steel. Contact your cam company if you aren't sure.

[souzape]

I use a Comp Cams hydraulic roller in my Cleveland and it requires a melonite coated cast iron gear....bronze will not work. This according to the manufacturer.

[eliminator]

My MSD was sent with a cast gear for the solid lifter Reed Cam, I have never changed the gear. I run a blueprinted high volume pump "Precision Oil Pumps" that idles hot at 35 PSI and normal range is about 70 PSI at crusing speed. The best I remember I don't think I ever double pined the gear either.

[Jim Harding]

OOPS.... I need to read with both eyes open
I thought Rick had a roller cam, like mine. But at least we got some good information on correct gear selection