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Thread: Part 18 – Heat Shielding

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2005
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    Roseville, Ca., USA.
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    523

    Part 18 – Heat Shielding

    The next item on the list is to add the firewall/foot-box heat shields. I have a portable sheet metal brake, so I was able to make my own panels. I also wanted to have an air gap between the foot-box sides and the aluminum heat shields, so I fabricated some non-metallic standoff mounts from a fiberglass sledgehammer handle. I’ll let the pictures tell the rest of the story.



















    To be continued…
    Rod
    Roseville, Ca.
    289 FIA #9152 "The Flintstone Cobra"

  2. #2
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    Sep 2003
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    Roseville, CA, USA.
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    Thumbs up

    Real nice, Rod. First rate I used insulation and stand-offs as well...... but a word of caution, especially for big blocks cars - I was patting myself on the back for the air-cap idea when I realized I really caused myself a problem with workable space between the footbox and the exhaust manifold. Probably not a big deal with a SB.... but definitely an issue with a BB.
    Phil

    427 Roadster, #4279436
    FE Specialties FE
    3:31 and Toploader (wide ratio)

    Roseville (N.Cal)

  3. #3
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    Roseville, Ca., USA.
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    Quote Originally Posted by pgermond View Post
    I was patting myself on the back for the air-cap idea when I realized I really caused myself a problem with workable space between the footbox and the exhaust manifold. Probably not a big deal with a SB.... but definitely an issue with a BB.
    I should have mentioned that Phil, with the 289 I have plenty of room to work with.
    Rod
    Roseville, Ca.
    289 FIA #9152 "The Flintstone Cobra"

  4. #4
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    Harrisburg, PA, USA.
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    Really nice work Rod. Your workmanship is stellar.

    I was glad to see the term 289 show up in the forum dialog. You would be hard pressed to "dimple" BB headers enough for clearance.

    Once again: Just nice ....... exceedingly nice!!

    -Geary

  5. #5
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    Nov 2003
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    Mississippi Gulf Coast and Central Florida
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    Thumbs up

    Very sweet! What size space did you leave?

    I notice a large opening in the driver's side top panel, and an interesting looking pedal mount, maybe? You holding out on us!?? New thread on that please...

    Nice work!
    Paul

    289 USRRC
    1964 289 5-bolt block
    Toploader and 3.31 rear

  6. #6
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    Dec 2007
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    Southeast MS
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    master cyl

    On the front of the drivers footbox did you use spacers to keep the master cylinders from "crushing" the panel with the air gap?

  7. #7
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    Wink

    Quote Originally Posted by diegokid View Post
    On the front of the drivers footbox did you use spacers to keep the master cylinders from "crushing" the panel with the air gap?
    I left a 1/2" air gap behind the aluminum. The master cylinders are not going to mount on the front of the foot box. More on that later
    Rod
    Roseville, Ca.
    289 FIA #9152 "The Flintstone Cobra"

  8. #8
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    Nov 2003
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    Mississippi Gulf Coast and Central Florida
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    Quote Originally Posted by RJacobsen View Post
    The master cylinders are not going to mount on the front of the foot box. More on that later

    Oh the suspense....!
    Paul

    289 USRRC
    1964 289 5-bolt block
    Toploader and 3.31 rear

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Navarre, Florida
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    284

    Lizardskin products

    I'm new to the Cobra world and this forum. I'll be at the May 14th Homecoming to look at all the Cobra's and work my order details with the Weaver's. I'm a big planner and therefore why I'm looking for all the build tips I can. In this "Heat Shield" post, did you consider LizardSkins Sound and Ceramic heat coating? If so, any opinions of the product? From my research, looks like the sound coating would be sprayed on the body surfaces and the ceramic heat sprayed on the back of the aluminum. Any help here much appreciated. Thanks Mark

  10. #10
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    I did not consider Lizard Skin but it looks like it would do a great job. One of their vidios showed the product sanded, filled and painted so you would not need the aluminum shield. I was able to fabricate all the pieces myself so my cost is very low in comparison, also I'm running a small block so the extra room in the engine compartment translates to less heat to control.
    Rod
    Roseville, Ca.
    289 FIA #9152 "The Flintstone Cobra"

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
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    Navarre, Florida
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    Another thought on heat shielding that I'll be doing in addition to everything else. I'll ceramic coat the headers and then wrap them with header tape wrap. Many benefits come from this, but the top two are, 1) Heat to drop in the engine compartment by up to 70% and 2) with the heat staying within the header, thereby keeping the exhaust gas hotter, flow restriction decreases. Both 1 & 2 contribute to more HP.... always a good thing.
    427 S/C, Flame Yellow, B2 Motorsports 427ci Stroker Dart SBF, TKO600, 3.73 Posi, Avon tires and so much more.

  12. #12
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    Gadsden, Al , USA.
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    The problem with header wrap is it holds moisture, I have replaced several sets of headers over the years that were wrapped, they literally fell apart after a few years. If you ceramic coat your exhaust and use Thermo tec heat insulation under your carpet you will not have a heat problem.

    Alan

  13. #13
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    Apr 2010
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    Navarre, Florida
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    Alan... hmmmm good point. Let me ask thought... if I ceramic coat first then wrap.... would I still have the rust problem? i.e, isn't the ceramic coat waterproof?
    427 S/C, Flame Yellow, B2 Motorsports 427ci Stroker Dart SBF, TKO600, 3.73 Posi, Avon tires and so much more.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Navarre, Florida
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    Rod.... here's an excellent product for all your aluminum work to keep it looking new.... http://www.sharkhide.com just wipe on.
    427 S/C, Flame Yellow, B2 Motorsports 427ci Stroker Dart SBF, TKO600, 3.73 Posi, Avon tires and so much more.

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