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Thread: Sidepipe mount fastener issue

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Southbury CT
    Posts
    402

    Sidepipe mount fastener issue

    I have done many searches on this subject, also talked to someone at Unique( can't remember who) a couple of years ago who told me to just sock them down tight. This to me would make sense if the motor mount was a solid mount, then the engine, frame, and side-pipe would all be vibrating/moving in unyson creating no stress points.
    My motor mount is not however, it has rubber in it to provide flex.
    What worries me is that that motor is moving separately from the frame, so if you sock down on the fastener you would now be creating a hard point at the side-pipe mounts.
    My present situation (the way I bought the car) is 5/16 bolt with a washer under the head, then a spring followed by another washer. The spring is similar to a brake shoe spring. I have lost a few of these bolts already, must have vibrated out, maybe I should have install the bolts with locktight? I also cut some radiator hose into 1x1 squares and put them between the frame and the side-pipe mount.
    I'm really sick of all the make shift rigs and would really like to have the correct set-up I just don't want to crack out the the headers anywhere.
    I was actually considering a solid motor mount then socking up on the sidepipe mount fasteners.
    any thoughts on this fellas, anybody running solid motor mounts or have some sound advice?
    Thanks...Dave
    Dave
    93 Unique Motorcars 427 SC, 428PI with CJ heads, toploader 4 spd,jag rear with 354 gears, Red with white stripes.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Birmingham, AL, USA.
    Posts
    201

    Wink Sidepipe Mount

    I installed a heavy duty truck bed mat in a 1978 Chevy Suburban a few year back and had to cut it to size. That left me with some heavy-rubber, fiber re-inforced strips that are about 1/4" thick. I used a 2" hole saw and fabricated some washers from the material. I put one between the mount and the frame at each sidepipe support location. They worked great. Compressibe enough to keep bolts tight and also provided some cushion preventing the metal-to-metal contact point. I have some of this material and can make you 4-washers if you would like. Just send me your address!
    Dennis M. Swann

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Southbury CT
    Posts
    402
    Hey Dennis,
    That is very nice of you, sounds like a better material than what i am using for sure. i will PM you my address.
    did you tighten up on the fastener? Did you use locktight?

    This will be a nice addition to what i have, however, eventually I would like have the whole situatuion corrected the proper way instead of work-arounds.
    Dave
    93 Unique Motorcars 427 SC, 428PI with CJ heads, toploader 4 spd,jag rear with 354 gears, Red with white stripes.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Roseville, Ca., USA.
    Posts
    523
    The problem is how do you rubber mount the exhaust and leave the bolt loose enough for it to allow movement but tight enough to not fall out? What I did was eliminate the bolt and install a stud instead. You can use all thread or cut the end off of a bolt with enough threads on it and screw that in where the bolt goes, use a jam nut to lock it into place. Make some rubber washers out of what ever you have, floor mat, mud flap, or bed liner and use them on both sides of the side pipe flanges. Use a large enough metal washer to cover the rubber washer and a locking nut to hold it all together.
    Rod
    Roseville, Ca.
    289 FIA #9152 "The Flintstone Cobra"

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Navarre, Florida
    Posts
    284
    Quote Originally Posted by RJacobsen View Post
    The problem is how do you rubber mount the exhaust and leave the bolt loose enough for it to allow movement but tight enough to not fall out? What I did was eliminate the bolt and install a stud instead. You can use all thread or cut the end off of a bolt with enough threads on it and screw that in where the bolt goes, use a jam nut to lock it into place. Make some rubber washers out of what ever you have, floor mat, mud flap, or bed liner and use them on both sides of the side pipe flanges. Use a large enough metal washer to cover the rubber washer and a locking nut to hold it all together.

    This is a good way to do it..... But I'll offer another suggestion. From a auto parts store, buy a cheap exhaust pipe hanger... one with a rubber fiber donut... something like http://www.amazon.com/Walker-Exhaust.../dp/B000CQBGEQ or like this http://www.autoanything.com/exhausts.../201A1753.aspx or this http://www.discountexhaustsystems.co...tegory:Exhaust)

    see attached picture for my choice. then you'd fasten top to frame and bottom to side pipe mount.

    My $0.02
    Mark
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    427 S/C, Flame Yellow, B2 Motorsports 427ci Stroker Dart SBF, TKO600, 3.73 Posi, Avon tires and so much more.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Harrisburg, PA, USA.
    Posts
    657

    Bolt it tight!!

    Bolt it up tight as it comes from Unique. No insultators should ever be used. Verify this statement with Unique. As most of you know my engine is capable of extreme torque/horsepower and is doing well with stock engine mounts and hard mounted sidepipes as per original.

    The 1st 13,000 miles with 500 HP on tap - No Problems
    The last 7,000 miles with Dual Superchargers added - No Problems
    The next 20,000 miles - No problems anticipated due to track record to date.

    With Unique being intimately associated with these vehicles since 1977 check with them.

    I did.

    -Geary

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Southbury CT
    Posts
    402
    Quote Originally Posted by mkassab View Post
    This is a good way to do it..... But I'll offer another suggestion. From a auto parts store, buy a cheap exhaust pipe hanger... one with a rubber fiber donut... something like http://www.amazon.com/Walker-Exhaust.../dp/B000CQBGEQ or like this http://www.autoanything.com/exhausts.../201A1753.aspx or this http://www.discountexhaustsystems.com/shop/?PN=2490&N=0&Nr=AND(category:Exhaust)

    see attached picture for my choice. then you'd fasten top to frame and bottom to side pipe mount.

    My $0.02
    Mark
    Thanks Mark,
    I do like your choice in mount, do you have a link for it? Also, it looks pretty big, how in the world would you get that between the frame and the side-pipe mount???
    Am I missing something here?
    Dave
    93 Unique Motorcars 427 SC, 428PI with CJ heads, toploader 4 spd,jag rear with 354 gears, Red with white stripes.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Southbury CT
    Posts
    402
    Quote Originally Posted by RJacobsen View Post
    The problem is how do you rubber mount the exhaust and leave the bolt loose enough for it to allow movement but tight enough to not fall out? What I did was eliminate the bolt and install a stud instead. You can use all thread or cut the end off of a bolt with enough threads on it and screw that in where the bolt goes, use a jam nut to lock it into place. Make some rubber washers out of what ever you have, floor mat, mud flap, or bed liner and use them on both sides of the side pipe flanges. Use a large enough metal washer to cover the rubber washer and a locking nut to hold it all together.
    Sound a little better than what I have presently
    First off, where do you put the first jam nut for the rear mount, it is a closed box tube with no access to the threads.
    I do like the stud idea better than the bolts which I am using washers for adjustment.
    Thanks
    Dave
    93 Unique Motorcars 427 SC, 428PI with CJ heads, toploader 4 spd,jag rear with 354 gears, Red with white stripes.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Roseville, Ca., USA.
    Posts
    523
    Quote Originally Posted by davids2toys View Post
    Sound a little better than what I have presently
    First off, where do you put the first jam nut for the rear mount, it is a closed box tube with no access to the threads.
    I do like the stud idea better than the bolts which I am using washers for adjustment.
    Thanks
    I have the jam nut for front and rear on the bottom and drilled the hole in the side pipe flange out to clear it.
    Rod
    Roseville, Ca.
    289 FIA #9152 "The Flintstone Cobra"

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