Engine & Cooling

[mkassab]

I'll start with the engine:
Brent, co-owner of B2 Motorsports LLC (email brent@b2motorsportsllc.com ), who is an expert in engine, clutch and transmissions. I saw some of his posts (and there is a ton of them) where he was very responsive with his advice and knowledge (and time to type it all in!). I contacted him and he helped me put together the right drive train package (i.e., tranny/clutch/bell housing combination) for the engine I intended to buy from the Engine Factory.com. He was so engaging, knowledgeable and accessible. I soon learned he’s an expert engine builder. I got references and called them….. In the end, I hired Brent to build me the engine. I pick up the engine on July 8th at the dyno shop. The TKO600 Transmission, clutch kit, bell housing and short shifter were drop shipped to Unique Motorcars.

On the engine front, I went with a complete turnkey engine. . I shopped around on the Internet and I narrowed my choices to several local shops and a large US supplier. In the end I went with Brent at B2 MotorSports. Brent is also very active on the Club Cobra forum, along with other Ford forums. Brent completely customized the engine specifically at my request (with lots of help and insight from him). Brent will match your engine & cam, trany gears and rear end gear ratio to suit your specific driving needs. When I pick up the engine on July 8th, I’ll witness the dyno and final tuning. I'll tell you how it runs in the car in several months.
I’m going with a new DART IronEagle Sportsman block (rated for 1200 HP) based on the Ford 351W engine block size/shape (which allows a lot of “bolt-on options)…. Dart blocks are “beefier” with extra iron in all the right places that allow more cubic inches than a Ford OEM 351W block…. Therefore, my DART block will be bored and stroked to 427 cubic inch and produce about 575 HP and 575 ft/lbs of torque. I have a separate engine thread where I’ll go into more details and post the dyno sheet. For as light a car as the Cobra, about 2400 lbs, this combination is more than enough power/torque, this will maintain the true Cobra engine 427ci but in a smaller size, less weight than a big block, improved handling and many, many options that bolt on to the 351W. It was very important to me to have a 427ci, but I don’t care that I don’t have a Big Block 427, i.e, a small block 427 is just fine and has more options & will make more power. The small block should work just fine for what I want and in the end, shouldn't hurt resale value.

My parts list with Brent, B2 Motorsports LLC was:
Final Part ItemFinal Part NumberDart IronEagle Sportsman 351W Block, 9.500"31355235Scat 4340 Crankshaft, 4.000" Stroke4351C50Scat 7/16 4340 Rods, 6.200"ICR6200-7/16Wiseco Forged PistonsPT065HSClevite Main BearingsMS1010HClevite Rod BearingsCB663HN, CB663HN1AFR 205 Heads1450Comp Cams Solid Roller Cam35-000-9Comp Cams Solid Roller Lifters838-16Stainless Steel Bolt KitMelling Select Oil Pump10833Felpro Rear Main SealBS40592Felpro Oil Pan GasketQS30214CARP Oil Pump Drive Shaft154-7901ARP Crank Bolt150-2501ARP Cam Retainer Bolts250-1001ARP Oil Pump/Pickup Bolts150-6902ARP Flywheel Bolts100-2801ARP Cylinder Head Bolts154-3603Ford Racing Timing SetM-6268-A302Trick Flow Hardened Pushrods21408250RAM Flywheel1507Comp Cams Roller Rockers19044-16Ford Racing Fuel Pump EccentricM-6287-C302Edelbrock Super Victor Intake2924Weiand Water Pump2510OEM Ford Timing CoverMoroso Oil Pan, Dipstick, Pickup20501CVR Gear Drive Starter5055Quick Fuel Q-Series CarburetorQ-950Fuel Block Off PlateComp Cams Polymer Distributor Gear35100MSD Distributor8578MSD Coil8202MSD Coil Bracket8213Ford Racing Distributor ClampM-12270-A302Tuff Stuff 100A 1-Wire Alternator7068RAM Clutch Kit98769TTremec TKO 600 short shaffTCET 4617SSLakewood Bellhousing15200

[mkassab]

Here's a few pictures of some add-ons:
Accusump pre oiler, fuel pump and filters, custom CNC machined header flanges for 1 7/8s header pipe, header to side pipe CNC flanges, fuel line to carb and regulator. For the Ignition, I went with a MSD 6AL-2 programable

[mkassab]

Adding coolant.... the best system I've ever seen..... AVOID those "start-up" hot spots.

Here’s the Proper way to fill a cooling system using the Airlift System

Detailed Description:
The Problem: Airlocks in the cooling system of today's vehicles have become a prevalent problem. They can be caused by the positioning of the radiator at a level equal to or lower than the engine. Upon refilling with liquid, air is trapped in the cooling system reducing circulation. This results in overheating, added installation time and other problems. While OEM's have attempted to address this by installing air bleed devices on the cooling circuit, they are still plagued by airlocks

The Solution: The UView Airlift system purges those problematic airlocks, checks for vacuum leaks and then allows the technician to refill the system quickly and easily.

The Process: 1) Connect your shop air to Airlift & pull vacuum 2) Check for leaks 3) Insert refill hose in container of antifreeze, watch the cooling system fill within seconds

Google UView Airlift Cooling System

Here’s an Amazon.com link to buy http://www.amazon.com/UView-550000-Airlift-Cooling-Checker/dp/B0002SRH5G

Here’s a video on it use from the Engine Factory
http://mustangengines.com/Techvideos.htm then click video #17 ” Proper way to fill a cooling system”

[mkassab]

Here's my oil system setup.... all Canton parts, 2 oil filters, a oil thermostat to control flow through the oil cooler, check valve and the accusump.

[mkassab]

Cooling fans... ah, the hot south... I ended up with the two traditional pusher fans and then added a large pull fan behind the radiator. You notice in my electrical diagram, I have a switch on the dash that will be "ON" as the normal setting, but the ground will be conntected to a sending unit that monitors the water temp. When the temp reaches 200 degs or higher, the sending unit switch will engage and cause the fans to get grounded, therefore, turn on. You'll note in the picture a second sensor in the package. This is a safty shut-off switch for the electric fuel pump incase of an accident. The way it works is if the eng stops, and no oil pressure, the sender switch is opened and the power is killed to the pump. At eng startup, with no oil presure, the sender passed power from the starter to power the pump.... so, while starting, power from starter to pump, you make oil presure, which in turn closed the sender switch to power the pump from the normal "on" power vs the starter.

[mkassab]

If anyone wants to get into the details of the engine build you have several options?
1) (preferred). Post to this thread so all can benefit. Either I or Brent (or anyone reading the thread) will respond, answer, or debate
2) Contact Brent direct email: brent@b2motorsportsllc.com

[Gary Lewis]

Mark,
I know I'm way out of my depth here and I'm sure you have this covered, but just in case.... You said "When the temp reaches 200 degs or higher, the sending unit switch will engage and cause the fans to get grounded". Is there truly a switch on the sending unit, one that is designed to handle the current of a motor - or two? The sending units I'm familiar with can't handle that much current, but are capable of pulling in a relay which handles the current of the motor.

Ciao,
Gary