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Thread: Voltage Regulator Burns Out

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Newton, NJ, USA.
    Posts
    174

    Voltage Regulator Burns Out

    Anyone else having issues with their external voltage regulator (mounts on back of alternator)?
    I noticed a discharge on my dash guage and suspect the regulator has burned out again. No problem, I purchased a new one ($35.00) but, maybe I should build a heat sheild or something. What say you - guys?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Mississippi Gulf Coast and Central Florida
    Posts
    2,154
    This might help...

    http://www.uniquecobra.com/forums/sh...tage+regulator

    You could do a search, as there might be other posts that could help direct you. Good luck!
    Paul

    289 USRRC
    1964 289 5-bolt block
    Toploader and 3.31 rear

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Somers, CT, USA.
    Posts
    75
    If you use one of those, carry a spare with you, as they are prone to burn out. The remote units are more reliable. If you use a remote, make sure your ground connection is good. Happy motoring.
    MIKE DEL

    Your Warranty Voided Here...If you can't open it, it's not yours.

    289 USRRC, 357 Magnum Windsor

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Gadsden, Al , USA.
    Posts
    1,543
    I don't think heat has anything to do with it, the one on our 289 car is almost 20 years old and no problems.

    Alan

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Huntsville, Al, USA.
    Posts
    104
    I went through two of these regulator units in the first six years of driving my car. My final solution was to purchase a chrome one wire (internal regulator) general motors 60 amp alternator (don't buy a 100 amp model as the wire is sized for 60 amps).

    To mount it on your ford block the top mounting hole has to be drilled out from 3/8 to 7/16 and a new spacer has to be fabricated (or you could use a "stack" of 7/16 washers) to set the spacing for the top bolt as it is different from the Ford alternators. The bottom adjusting bolt hole has to be drilled and threaded to 5/16 NC so you can use the ford bolt and adjustment arm. The GM unit has worked well for the last ten years.

    The best part is that you do not have to wire in an external regulator.

    The units look enough alike so even the most critical observer will not recognize it as a GM part.

    Keith
    Keith

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Newton, NJ, USA.
    Posts
    174

    Regulator Failure - Heat vs Wiring damage?

    I removed the alternator, unbolted the two small nuts that hold the external regulator to the backside of the alternator and found, what I think, the failure problem. When the electrical shop mounted my last regulator, they squished the yellow wire which created a short after a couple of years of vibrations. You can see where it worn through the yellow plastic coating of the wire. Also, the same yellow wire had a bubble in the insulation jacket, again indicating a short. Ordered and installed a new one, read the directions, says to put two additional nuts down over the mounting studs, as to allow more room ( raise up the regulator) so you don't tighten down on any wires. I will get my test driver (wife - Sandy) to fire it up tonight and I will be in the trunk with a volt meter. The side pipes sound really cool from the trunk - you should try it!
    Just as an extra precaution, I cut and glued a piece of leftover tunnel insulation over the back top half of the alternator, between it and the engine block/head. Hope this is my last round with the charging system.
    Once again - you were right Alan. Thank you!

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