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Thread: Accusump installed

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Portsmouth, VA, USA.
    Posts
    94

    Red face

    FYI: the Koul Tool is available at Summit but doesn't come in the "medium" size, so if you have both 8 and 10 AN hoses on your car, like me, you have to buy the small and the large set or go to Pegasus and get the medium. Also, while rambling around the internet one day I came across a great way to cut SS hose. Buy a thick chunk of aluminum or brass to use as an anvil, a cheap bricklayer's chisel and a hand-held sledge. Sharpen the chisel on your grinder, mark the hose and strike it with the chisel and hammer. It cuts clean with no residue to clean out of the hose. Don't use wood or iron as your anvil as it won't cut clean.
    Bill Stradtner, Portsmouth, VA
    427 S/C #9442
    427W Dart "Replica" Ford Engine

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Navarre, Florida
    Posts
    284
    Quote Originally Posted by sllib View Post
    FYI: the Koul Tool is available at Summit but doesn't come in the "medium" size, so if you have both 8 and 10 AN hoses on your car, like me, you have to buy the small and the large set or go to Pegasus and get the medium. Also, while rambling around the internet one day I came across a great way to cut SS hose. Buy a thick chunk of aluminum or brass to use as an anvil, a cheap bricklayer's chisel and a hand-held sledge. Sharpen the chisel on your grinder, mark the hose and strike it with the chisel and hammer. It cuts clean with no residue to clean out of the hose. Don't use wood or iron as your anvil as it won't cut clean.

    Bill... I saw the same internet video.... YouTube I believe? That's what I plan to do. I already sharpend an old brick chisel and I have the alum block, so should be all set. If I "screw" that up.... I'll revert to my Dremil tool
    Mark
    427 S/C, Flame Yellow, B2 Motorsports 427ci Stroker Dart SBF, TKO600, 3.73 Posi, Avon tires and so much more.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    La Plata, Maryland, USA.
    Posts
    421
    Hey Mike, finally getting back to your question of how long it takes to empty the accusump. When filled with 'cold' oil, it will store it at around 60 psi. Hitting the discharge switch, the two quarts will empty in just under 20 seconds. At running temps, the thing will dump it load in a little under 10 seconds. Pre load on the accusump is 10 psi (give or take) so I'm timing until the gauge on the accusump drops to 10.

    Would have had this info earlier had I not decided to replace the bronze dizzy gear. Took a little longer than I thought
    Jim Harding
    #4279512 - SA452 - TKO600
    #3004 - 302 - 4 speed
    La Plata, Maryland

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Navarre, Florida
    Posts
    284
    Thanks Jim.

    Mark
    427 S/C, Flame Yellow, B2 Motorsports 427ci Stroker Dart SBF, TKO600, 3.73 Posi, Avon tires and so much more.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Prince Frederick, Maryland, USA.
    Posts
    1,561
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Harding View Post
    Hey Mike, finally getting back to your question of how long it takes to empty the accusump. When filled with 'cold' oil, it will store it at around 60 psi. Hitting the discharge switch, the two quarts will empty in just under 20 seconds. At running temps, the thing will dump it load in a little under 10 seconds. Pre load on the accusump is 10 psi (give or take) so I'm timing until the gauge on the accusump drops to 10.

    Would have had this info earlier had I not decided to replace the bronze dizzy gear. Took a little longer than I thought
    Jim,
    I thought they developed a gear that you didn't have to replace for the roller cams.
    Tony
    Unique 427 #4279480 Precision Engine Machine Company 427 s/o 483.47 stroker close ratio toploader 3.31 jag rear

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    La Plata, Maryland, USA.
    Posts
    421
    Quote Originally Posted by Naumoff View Post
    Jim,
    I thought they developed a gear that you didn't have to replace for the roller cams.
    Hi Tony, from what I've researched, the composite gear is not yet made for the FE with a steel solid roller cam. I've heard of a steel gear that is available, but read some talk that the difference in the steels make up could do as much damage as using an iron gear. So I just pressed on a new bronze one and will check it for wear every now and then. The old one probably would have lasted a few hundred miles, but it did show visual and measurable wear, so I swapped it out.
    Interesting information on the MSD instructions They say that pressing a new gear onto the dizzy shaft and aligning it over the original holes "is possible" but suggest that the new gear be lined up 90 degrees from the drilled hole in the shaft, and then drill another hole to secure the new gear. Has to make you shake your head... just how many gears can you change before the shaft is destroyed? I took careful care pressing the gear on and managed to use the original holes. Just a slight misalignment was corrected with a tapered dowel pin I made from an old .125 drill bit. Good for another few thousand miles now
    Jim Harding
    #4279512 - SA452 - TKO600
    #3004 - 302 - 4 speed
    La Plata, Maryland

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Prince Frederick, Maryland, USA.
    Posts
    1,561
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Harding View Post
    Hi Tony, from what I've researched, the composite gear is not yet made for the FE with a steel solid roller cam. I've heard of a steel gear that is available, but read some talk that the difference in the steels make up could do as much damage as using an iron gear. So I just pressed on a new bronze one and will check it for wear every now and then. The old one probably would have lasted a few hundred miles, but it did show visual and measurable wear, so I swapped it out.
    Interesting information on the MSD instructions They say that pressing a new gear onto the dizzy shaft and aligning it over the original holes "is possible" but suggest that the new gear be lined up 90 degrees from the drilled hole in the shaft, and then drill another hole to secure the new gear. Has to make you shake your head... just how many gears can you change before the shaft is destroyed? I took careful care pressing the gear on and managed to use the original holes. Just a slight misalignment was corrected with a tapered dowel pin I made from an old .125 drill bit. Good for another few thousand miles now
    Jim, that is so you have to buy a new shaft and replace it.
    Tony
    Unique 427 #4279480 Precision Engine Machine Company 427 s/o 483.47 stroker close ratio toploader 3.31 jag rear

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    La Plata, Maryland, USA.
    Posts
    421
    Quote Originally Posted by Naumoff View Post
    Jim, that is so you have to buy a new shaft and replace it.
    Yeah, you're right. I guess you could get by if you had to drill just one more hole in the shaft. Even with one more hole, it has to weaken the shaft and make it more prone to failure, but can you imagine a third hole? Don't ya just love working on these cars
    Saw the other post where you just picked up a new GT. That car has to give you a rush too. I bought JoAnn a used 2010 GT with 3000 miles on the clock. Previous owner did a primo job creating a GT500 clone. Only thing missing is the extra pony's under the hood. Take care man, we have to get together some weekend for a run on some of the back roads of Southern Maryland.
    Jim Harding
    #4279512 - SA452 - TKO600
    #3004 - 302 - 4 speed
    La Plata, Maryland

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