Clutch Slave Cylinder change?

[mkassab]

I've heard of issues with the clutch slave cylinders on our Cobras, e.g., leaking, wearing out prematurely, breaking. My car only has a few hundred miles on it and already the slave cylinder has drops of brake fluid. Heck, while at the Emerald Coast auto show, one of our fellow Cobra owners had his slave cylinder go out at the Cruizin the Coast (MS) show last Oct. He's going with a cable set up. Not being one to wait and have a failure out on the road, I'm changing to something different. I'm looking to this forum for ideas, pictures and suggestions. I'm currently looking at the Wilwood slave cylinder. It only comes in a "pull" and the standard Unique setup on our 427s is a push. The pull isn't a show stopper, I'd just need to make a bracket. This will be a good winter project. I was going to bleed the brakes and clutch anyway.

I'll keep you posted with my modification.

Thanks Mark

[Jim Harding]

Mark, most of the failures I've seen are due to a misalignment of the slave cylinder. The misalignment is noticeable when the slave push rod does not exit the slave exactly perpendicular, i.e. a slight angle between the body of the slave and the push rod. This causes abnormal wear on one side of the piston/cylinder rather than even wear around its circumference. Careful realignment of the slave will cure your problem.
The Wilwood pull cylinder will do the same thing if there is misalignment. I'm using a Wilwood pull slave on my black car and it has been trouble free since it's installation back in 2000. So far, the push type on my silver car has gone over 3K without a problem..... oh oh, maybe I just jinxed myself

[mkassab]

Thanks Jim..... I've read all the past threads and mind is misaligned also. The good thing about the Wilwood, it has two swivel/pivot bearings, one on each end for a 360 deg of movement, and if mounted correctly, the slave cylinder is always in a straight line, therefore, no side pressure. And, because its pulling, vs. pushing, it’s easy to keep itself in a straight line (like pulling a rope vs pushing one). I'm designing a bracket know and plan to weld up over the weekend unless someone has a better design/idea.
Picture attached
Mark

[davebetts]

Alignment is key, but don't forget to use the Wilwood High Temp brake fluid. Not doing so has caused failures in itself - fluid cooks from overheating and Game Over. Also, I remember guys putting the updated Dot 5 and/or synthetic fluids in - again failure from heat and/or rubber deteriation. I belive regular Dot 4 is the correct fluid. Hope this helps.

[mkassab]

Thanks Dave.... regarding brake fluid, I use Amsoil DOT 4 racing brake fluid, rated for 600 degs

Mark

[spd4me]

Mark - I changed mine from the Lockhead push to the Wilwood pull. I've got some pics I'll find and send. I made a U shape bracket of 1/2" steel to weld to frame to attach slave to. I found a 3/4" ball bearing and had it cut in half, drilled hole and used to attach slave to clutch arm (half ball fits in indentation in clutch arm). Works perfect and had no problems.
Bob