Clutch Slave Cylinder change?

[diegokid]

Will the slave cylinder have enough travel with the cyl. attached all the way out on the end of the actuator like that? It should be easier to operate but won't it lose travel?

[mkassab]

Yes, the picture doesn't show all the clearance. The cylinder body will move rearward and has lots of clearance. Any future adjustments will be made from the clutch arm end. This is a Pull slave cylinder, so it should be all the way out.
Mark

[mkassab]

diegokid sent me a PM with a good question. I wanted to share Q&A with everyone.

Originally Posted by diegokid
I think you may have misunderstood. The pivot arm that actually disengages the clutch through the bellhousing has a divit in it for a rod to push on. The divot keeps it from slipping out.

I was just wandering why you didn't hook the slave through a hold drilled there instead of out on the end of the arm? That will give you less travel on the throwout bearing that if it was drilled to the divot.
I was going to use the divot area and drill a hole, but my clutch arm must be harden steel and my drill bits wouldn't touch it! The hole I used is only ~3/4" out from the divot and the pivot angle in a few deg's and distance of travel is only ~1/2” so it shouldn’t be an issue. One benefit using the outer hole is a little more leverage.

Mark
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[spd4me]

Mark - Just be sure the slave arm where it attaches to clutch arm has slack enough to move and not bind. That's why I drilled mine at the dimple and used the curved bushing. Left some slack and tightened on the opposite side of clutch arm. I'll get a photo tonight and post tomorrow.

[spd4me]

It's tomorrow already. If you look close yu can see the ball bearing I cut in half to fit in the clutch arm dimple. Lock the nuts together and it has room to slide in the dimple.

[mkassab]

I'm good to go with the stud through the clutch arm hole relative to free motion. I also "rounded" out the far side of the clutch arm hole where the half-round bushing pivots with a round/ball type grinding wheel via my air grinder... then applied a small amount of wheel bearing grease. And to keep the cylinder from moving back and forth, I reversed it. See new pictures.

Mark

[diegokid]

Some call them rotary files, we call them burr bits. They will drill/cut through just about anything you will find on our cars if anyone else is interested. I used one to burr a hole for a return spring on mine. Many different shapes and sizes.

[spd4me]

I've got a set of carbite for steel and non-ferris for alum. Use to port my intake and exhaust manifolds and to cut centers out of alum spinners on wheels. Need a real strong air compressor to operate when using the "wheel of death" air tool.
bob