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Thread: Front M/Cyl. will not hold pedal pressure.

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Pike Road Alabama
    Posts
    13

    Front M/Cyl. will not hold pedal pressure.

    Hi guys Cobra Jon here.

    I have my Cobra completed for shake down and Sat. I test drove it for the first….TIME OH YEAH! It's been one year. Will have to disassemble for paint but I have built the entire car.
    But any how the brakes were terrible. Originally I power bleed the fronts and rears (w/ rods disconnected) using the Power Master pump up bleeder I have used on other Cobra’s. So I put the car back up and had the wife press the pedal as I hand spun the wheels. Rears worked fine. No fronts at all.
    I then worked back through all fitting connections in the front for tightness, found none of these loose. So we manually bled them, pump up then bleed. They got better, still not right. Put the power bleeder back on and this is with the M/cyl. connect rods disconnected.
    Bled about 2 or 3 cups of fluid through front, some air not much. Reached in and pushed rod by hand, it was firm and holding. So reconnected rods to F & R and adjusted out.
    Still had no fronts until I really pumped them also finally got brake lights I knew there was something up with this because I had all lights except them and I could connect the 2 wires from the switch together and they worked. Also the threaded rod that goes through the pedal to both M/cyl. linkages, holds firm on the right M/cyl. (rears) and goes crooked as the left M/cyl. (front) fails to hold. This would be normal due to the cyl. not holding pressure. Also has anybody brought their brake pedal up and off the floor more than it sits from the builder? To me the angle is wrong and the M/cyl. rods need to be extended.
    Took pedal linkage back apart. Same scenario. Rear master firm…front mushy….????
    Ideas and comments please.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Birmingham, AL, USA.
    Posts
    487
    Had similar issues. When bleeding, your suppose to disconnect the front master cylinder push rod from the balance bar. Then bleed the rears starting at the farthest nipple. Disconnect rod and do same for front. My pedals were way too low so I took one of the master cylinder push rod to a machine shop and had them make me a couple that were 1.5 inches longer. Need to be careful not to lengthen so much that the rod will bind when pedal is depressed.
    Bob

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Pike Road Alabama
    Posts
    13
    You're correct on the disconnection sequence and I didn't follow that procedure. I just disconnected both. I will try the directions in the assembly manual (imagine that). I do believe that I will extend the master rods with long nuts and threaded rod cut to the correct length. That way I will still have adjustment and not bind them up.

    Thanks, Bob

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    paso robles Ca.
    Posts
    249
    sounds like you need to adjust the balance bar too, get more pressure to the fronts. i believe that the balance bar is not preset on installation andwill require some adjustment!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Gadsden, Al , USA.
    Posts
    1,543
    Scott is correct, the balance bar needs to be adjusted. It sounds like you have all rear brakes and no or little front, that is why the brake lights don't come on unless you push hard on the pedal.

    Alan

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Pike Road Alabama
    Posts
    13
    But you would think that with the balance bar completely disconneted from both masters they both would bleed out without any problems. Is this a correct presumption?

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