Front M/Cyl. will not hold pedal pressure.

[Cobrajon]

Ok I purchased 1 5/16" SAE extension nut, cut it in half finished it, added portions of (2) 5/16 SAE bolts to one end of each nut portion. Brazed these inplace giving me about 3/4" thread and a total of one and a quater inch piece overall. Threaded this in to the U shaped pieces until they butted tight to each other. Then used the existing M/Cyl rods and threaded them into the female portion of the cut long nut with the locking nut upside this.
Last nite I did another power bleed with using my mod and the front M/cyl. rod connected and the rear rod disconnected. No air in fronts. Set up bais bar between both, once again using the mod on the rear side and VOILA!... great pedal... further from floor... pad portion of pedal angles up for better foot contact... brake lights...Made sure adjustment of bais bar gives roughly 70% front and 30 % rear. Locked everything down tight. Will drive when weather clears. Thanks for all the help and comments. I like DSWANN's take on the thrill of little or no brakes. Seems like the car picks up speed when the brake pedal goes to the floor while driving it, not good for the nerves or your drawers. Been there done that.

[diegokid]

They shouldn't rust with the grease and the constant pushing of the pedals. The grade 8 is stronger than stainless and I just felt better knowing how hard I push on them every know and then. I also wanted a one piece setup, fewer parts = less trouble.

Almost forgot, contrary to popular belief SS will rust unless it 320 or higher. Most SS you buy unless you request will be 316, it'll rust.

[Aggressor]

dmswann seems to be like the ultimate wildman. An adrenilin junky. We'd all like to party with him someday.