Rear half shaft torque spec?

[richardu]

I have been driving around for several years with the rear camber out of spec - too much negative camber, as determined by my local shop back then (based on the rear alignment specs I gave them from the Unique manual). I have finally purchased 16 Jag rear shims. I just purchased a bunch thinking I won't need more than 8 per side.
I'm planning on removing the half shaft/u-joint flange from the brake rotor on each side myself and add 5 or 6 shims at first on each side, then see what I've got after the car settles (and do the trial and error method until I get it where it needs to be).
I have searched for the torque specs and cannot find them. Does anybody have the torque spec for the bolts that attach the half shaft/u-joint flange to the rotors?
This job looks like it should be fairly simple once the car is up on jack stands. Are there any pitfalls I should be aware of?

Thanks in advance.

Dick Untch

[pgermond]

I have been driving around for several years with the rear camber out of spec - too much negative camber, as determined by my local shop back then (based on the rear alignment specs I gave them from the Unique manual). I have finally purchased 16 Jag rear shims. I just purchased a bunch thinking I won't need more than 8 per side.
I'm planning on removing the half shaft/u-joint flange from the brake rotor on each side myself and add 5 or 6 shims at first on each side, then see what I've got after the car settles (and do the trial and error method until I get it where it needs to be).
I have searched for the torque specs and cannot find them. Does anybody have the torque spec for the bolts that attach the half shaft/u-joint flange to the rotors?
This job looks like it should be fairly simple once the car is up on jack stands. Are there any pitfalls I should be aware of?

Thanks in advance.

Dick Untch

Butch Capps could probably give you the torque specs for a Jag rear. I don't have his number in front of me, but I know you can get it from the Weaver's.

[Slither]

Look in here...

http://www.uniquecobra.com/forums/sh...ht=butch+capps


Good luck!

[scott h]

I don't remember torque settings
It is an simple but tediously slow process - fine thread bolts and no room to get a good turn on the wrench!

[weaver]

The best way to remove the bolts is to use a 1/2" ratchet with a long extension and a deep well 11/16" socket, I do it on every turnkey I build and it takes longer to jack up the car and take the wheels off than it does to install the shims. You will need to put the car on the ground and roll it before you check camber. I don't have torque specs on the lock nuts, just tighten them and go.

[scott h]

thats right- I was thinking when I had to replace a leaking stub shaft seal

[richardu]

Thank you all. The shims are going on this weekend.

[richardu]

Shims are done. The job was easier than I thought. I added 6 shims on each side. I ended up with a very slight negative camber (by my eye). I'll have an alignment guy check it later.

[weaver]

A liitel neg camber won't hurt.