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Thread: Brake master replacement

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Dacula, GA, USA.
    Posts
    450

    Brake master replacement

    Can anyone tell me what kind of set screw that is in that brass-looking piece that the master cylinder shaft screws into? It looks like a tiny allen screw, but I can't seem to get one to fit. They don't make a magnifying glass strong enough for me to see what it is. And assuming I ever get it off and the master installed - is there a procedure for setting the rod length? It looks like there's a little bit of slack in that proportioning bar that hopefully means some tolerance is acceptable.

    Thanks,

    T
    427SC, Torch Red / white stripes
    427 Windsor Stroker from Southern Automotive
    Delicious example of Beauty + Power.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Dacula, GA, USA.
    Posts
    450

    Success!

    Okay, never mind. I kept walking (actually limping) away due to a combination of frustration and the searing pain from squeezing in and out of the foot box. But I finally figured out that you have to screw the threaded rod from the master into the clevis after everything is installed - so everything is done.

    One thing I've noticed about the brake system on my car is that I never have to bleed the system to get rid of trapped air. If I pump the brake pedal enough, it sucks fluid out of the master and slowly brings the pressure back. The brake light switch is even working again. It doesn't work for the clutch (I've had to bleed that system many times), but I've never had to bleed the brakes. Is that weird?
    427SC, Torch Red / white stripes
    427 Windsor Stroker from Southern Automotive
    Delicious example of Beauty + Power.

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