New Water Pump New Problem

[spd4me]

Installed new Edelbrock 8843 Victor series water pump on my SA 396W. Drained off 11 qts fluid before and put 12 qts back. Warmed up to 180 degrees and thermostat opened and temp dropped and then started back up. Drove around block and temp went up to 220. When stopped it went to 250. Turned off motor could hear water boiling in top of head. Top radiator hose very hot while bottom very cool. Let engine cool down and checked water level, only took 1 cup of fluid. Bleed off fluid at temp sensor behind thermostat. 2 days later it did the same thing. Replaced thermostat and did the exact same thing. It's like the pump doesn't have an impellor in it or it has a counterclockwise and my motor is a clockwise. Any body have any suggestions?
Bob

[Jim Harding]

The 8843 pump has a clockwise rotation, same as the crankshaft.

Make sure you have 'burped' the system of air. An old trick is to drill an 1/8 inch hole in the thermostat flange (position it at 12 o'clock) to allow air to be forced out while the thermostat valve is still closed.

What was your reason to change pumps? If you are changing parts to correct a problem, maybe the problem is other than the pump. And, it's rare, but not impossible, to buy a bad pump, so don't rule that out. You already changed thermostats, so we can eliminate that as the problem.

Jim

[scott h]

still could be a bad t-stat, just because it's new doesn't mean it's good!

[weaver]

Make sure the thermo was installed in the right direction

[spd4me]

I drilled hole in thermostat. Installed like other one came out (portion with spring facing towards engine). The backplate on old one was leaking and it started squeaking. For the 2 heater hose connections, the top one loops back into the front side of the thermostat housing (right next to the large radiator hose) and the lower one is capped off. Everything is like it was originally. There is a very small area above the impellor that seems like it could hold some air. Does the top heater hose port in pump suck water from the connection next to thermostat and the lower one push water to heater? I hate to have to take pump off to see if anything is inside.

[pbrown]

There is only one heater hose attachment on a Ford water pump. It is the lower fitting. The upper fitting is a bypass hose and needs to connect to the small port on the stat housing. The secondheater hose connection is on the intake manifold right behind the thermostat.

Be sure the thermostat is facing the right direction. You can test its operation in some boiling water on the stove. Use a thermometer to see when it opens.

[spd4me]

I put my old thermo in pot and boiled. Use meat thermo and if began to open at 184 which was right. I got the top heater hose going to left side thermo housing and bottom is capped off (don't have heater). I think Uniques heater hook up show lower hose to heater and upper goes to heater with a tee that goes to left side thermo. my intake has one hole behind thermo where my temp sensor is installed. I talked to Edelbrock tech man and he said if impeller is a reverse (counterclockwise) it will have an "R" stamped on it. Only thing left to do is take pump off and remove back plate and see what's up.

[spd4me]

Pat - You got me confused. The lower heater connection on the water pump pushes water from pump to heater. Upper connection sucks water from thermo housing back into pump which gets pushed back into the 2 holes on front of engine. If water from lower hose goes straight from radiator to heater and back to intake behind thermostat, you wouldn't be getting a correct engine temp reading. If I take my old water pump I can look down through the lower port and see out the larger port where the radiator hose connects. That means as the impellor sucks water from lower radiator hose, it throws it into the lower heater port without even passing through the impellor. What I think is happening is if my pump has a reverse impellor then it's not pulling or pushing any water. It's just spinning.

[spd4me]

Well I couldn't sleep at night so I took the pump off and opened it up and it's correct. First photo shows old pump on right and Edelbrock on left. Edelbrock uses a vented brake rotor type impellor and has channels to direct water to engine. The old one is like a alternator fan and just pessurizes inside of pump. The top 1.25" of new pump which throws water to left side can hold air when full so I added a bleed valve. This will insure absolutely no air is in pump. When replacement gaskets come in, I'll put back together and see what happens.
bob

[spd4me]

This Edelbrock Victor 8843 water pump has been a disaster and a waste of $200. I did locate the web site for the original manufacturer GMB and have sent them photos of original pump to see if they can find a repalcement. I think the Edelbrock is creating way to much pressure in the system. Once motor reaches termostat temp 180 the catch can will start to overflow. Went and got a new radiator cap and does the same thing.

[spd4me]

Overheating problem solved. Got ride of $200. Eldebrock Victor 8843 high performance water pump and installed a GMB 125-1230AL (Ford Windsor). Purchased from Amazon for $43. and free shipping. Drove car around for an hour and never got over 185 degrees. The rear plate was loose so I unscrewed, put gasket on with Edlebrock Gasgacinch (like rubber cement), put some blue locktight on bolts, put together and clamped over night. If anyone wants a 8843, I'll give you a great price.