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Thread: Wheel Size/Alignment

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Harrisburg, PA, USA.
    Posts
    657
    Alan - I have 10 x 15 fronts and 11 x 15 rears. My first 2 Unique cars ran 8 X 15 fronts and 10 x 15 rears. I wanted to go up 1 inch on both fronts and rears on this car.
    I did not realize the problems that could occur with that decision in 2001.
    While I changed the front wheel bearings prior to this years homecoming they showed no extraordinary wear. The front suspension components all seem tight with no exceptional wear noted except for the steering rack. The rack was fine spindle to spindle but the bushings that center the rack within the steering assembly were totally beaten allowing much lateral movement within the tube. The beaten rack was also replaced prior to 2013 homecoming.

    -Geary
    Last edited by Aggressor; September 26th, 2013 at 06:25 PM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Birmingham, AL, USA.
    Posts
    487
    Geary - Did you do the toe-in yourself? My FIA use to float around at high speeds and would drift off every time I drove on top of a groove in the pavement. Looking at the front tires showed no wear inside or out. I took a string and aligned it with the back tire, pulled past front tire and measured distance from string to back of rim and to front of rim. Turned strearing rod until I got 1/8" more on front. Seemed to work. Still floats a little. Will vibrate between 60 to 65 mph. Always looking for way to smooth out ride. Nothing worst than driving down interstate and people passing seeing my hand shaking on wheel.
    Bob

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Harrisburg, PA, USA.
    Posts
    657
    See below text

    -Geary
    Last edited by Aggressor; October 6th, 2013 at 01:21 PM.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Harrisburg, PA, USA.
    Posts
    657
    Once again see below

    -Geary
    Last edited by Aggressor; October 6th, 2013 at 01:23 PM.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Harrisburg, PA, USA.
    Posts
    657
    Bob - Toe, Camber, Caster - All done in-house. After wasting money on numerous bad alignments I recently started doing my own. Watching obvious errors done by laser guided garage monkeys in alignment shops gets pricey and out of frustration you buy equipment to do it yourself.
    Simple bubble levels have been used forever to accurately set camber and caster and a simple trammel bar can accurately set toe. I purchased a Fasttrax Caster/Camber gauge. This is a $200 unit that contains bubble levels and you can add optional arms to measure toe if you want. I use a trammel bar is made of 1/2" metal conduit for toe.
    I have aligned my Unique, 72 Triumph GT6, 86 Trans Am, 68 Mustang, and spot checked Sharon's 325CI prior to trade in. For shop clients I have aligned a 96 Camaro, 78 Fiat 124 Spyder, 2006 Lancer Evo, and 3 street rods. All with great success.
    If you've ever watched a "professional" alignment you see that the person doing it will be happy to get your vehicle specs anywhere within an acceptable tolerance range and does not usually spend additional time zeroing in on a precision value. You'll find that your car can be off a few degrees in camber and caster and still feel stable even if not correct. Toe is a more sensitive subject and needs to be approached with more precision. The Fasttrax alignment gauge is claimed to be within an 1/8 degree. I don't know if I'm within an 1/8 but it's really close as bourne out by my results.

    -Geary

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