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Thread: Pedal adjustment option

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
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    Prince Frederick, Maryland, USA.
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    Pedal adjustment option

    I thought I would pull this out of my "Engine in" thread because it is important in setting up our cars for comfort, driveability and safety.

    Adjusted the valves and set the timing. Pulled the plugs and checked and set the gaps. Put the new Powermaster starter in as well.
    I also adjusted the gas pedal position out by shortening the linkage rod going to the throttle linkage.
    The rod has one end with a right hand thread and the other end with a left hand thread. I have a tap and die set so I naturally added threads to the end with the right hand thread. The thread is 1/4" fine thread. The stainless rod is tought to thread so take your time. I figured how much to cut off by measuring the pedal from the pivot point and marking a piece of metal. Then set up screws on my bench. Move the pedal end the distance i wanted then measured the connection end. I then measured from the firewall to the rod connection for the carbs.
    Then I removed the rod and moved the pedal the measued amount and remeasured from the firewall to the linkage.

    This was done to match the moving the brake and clutch pedals out because of my short legs. I am 5'10" with a 30" inseam.
    Last edited by Naumoff; September 15th, 2021 at 02:19 AM.
    Tony
    Unique 427 #4279480 Precision Engine Machine Company 427 s/o 483.47 stroker close ratio toploader 3.31 jag rear

  2. #2
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    If there is one bit of advice i can give that i think is worth any thing is to get your aeat position correct to the steering wheel then adjust your pedals to that position.

    The Unique manual says to adjust full throttle with the pedal tovthe firewall. That doesn't fit everyone.
    I welded a 5/16" nut to the gas pedal and used a bolt for the stop.



    I also added longer grade 8 5/16" bolts for the brake and clutch pushrods. For the clutch pedal stop i used a bolt and a rod coupling attached to the bottom master cylinder mounting bolt.


    I also cut the Wilwood little pedal pads off and installed the bigger and much more comfortable AC ones

    Tony
    Unique 427 #4279480 Precision Engine Machine Company 427 s/o 483.47 stroker close ratio toploader 3.31 jag rear

  3. #3
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    If you look closely at the worn off paint at the top of the pedal pads you can see why it was so uncomfortable after driving for a while.

    I did install the AC pedals so that they pivot but I think if you didn't want to do that amount of work you could cut the nubs off the back of the AC pedals and bolt them through the Wilwood pads.

    The AC pedals I got had to be drilled then I had to cut the slot in them. The Wilwood pads had to be delicately cut off to leave as much material as they has to be shaped to fit the AC pads. So I cut them from the front down each side of pedal. This gave me at least another 1/4" of material.
    A days worth of work.
    There could be other ways of doing this that are better but I just dove into it and made it up as I went. Sorry but i don't have step by step pics as i did the pads in 2018 right before the rod bearing went out
    Tony
    Unique 427 #4279480 Precision Engine Machine Company 427 s/o 483.47 stroker close ratio toploader 3.31 jag rear

  4. #4
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    Cool! Do you have any pics of the pedal pad change over? That would be helpful, even without the step-by-step...
    Paul

    289 USRRC
    1964 289 5-bolt block
    Toploader and 3.31 rear

  5. #5
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    I will get in there and get some new pics of the pedals and how they are connected
    Tony
    Unique 427 #4279480 Precision Engine Machine Company 427 s/o 483.47 stroker close ratio toploader 3.31 jag rear

  6. #6
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    OK, thanks. I have the same setup that you have and want to consider making the same change...
    Paul

    289 USRRC
    1964 289 5-bolt block
    Toploader and 3.31 rear

  7. #7
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    Tony
    Unique 427 #4279480 Precision Engine Machine Company 427 s/o 483.47 stroker close ratio toploader 3.31 jag rear

  8. #8
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    Thanks, Tony! Is the bolt hole on the pedal shank dangerously close to the edge? I know the pressure is into the pedal, so probably not a big issue...
    Paul

    289 USRRC
    1964 289 5-bolt block
    Toploader and 3.31 rear

  9. #9
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    Prince Frederick, Maryland, USA.
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    Paul, not sure if it is or isn't an issue for the pedal.
    I did contemplate, as I mentioned, to bolt the AC pads directly onto the existing pad.
    Probably would work just as well but I didn't want bolt heads visible on the pad.
    As you can see the fit is snug so there is no side to side movement and I used teflon lock nuts so as to not put clamping stress on the pad.
    They are extremely comfortable and make the clutch feel lighter.
    Tony
    Unique 427 #4279480 Precision Engine Machine Company 427 s/o 483.47 stroker close ratio toploader 3.31 jag rear

  10. #10
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    Are the old pedal assemblies cast aluminum?
    Paul

    289 USRRC
    1964 289 5-bolt block
    Toploader and 3.31 rear

  11. #11
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    They appear to be cast
    Tony
    Unique 427 #4279480 Precision Engine Machine Company 427 s/o 483.47 stroker close ratio toploader 3.31 jag rear

  12. #12
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    OK, thanks, Tony! Your setup looks good... will try to duplicate it later on.
    Paul

    289 USRRC
    1964 289 5-bolt block
    Toploader and 3.31 rear

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Prince Frederick, Maryland, USA.
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    Sure Paul. Make sure you set up your seat position to your driving position to the steering wheel first.
    Then measure where your pedals need to be then get to work.
    Tony
    Unique 427 #4279480 Precision Engine Machine Company 427 s/o 483.47 stroker close ratio toploader 3.31 jag rear

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