Now that we are all here...

[GeorgiaSnake]

Lets see the pictures. I would like to do the same before I install the steering column.

Randy

Unique 289 FIA
Southern Automotive 396
Team III 16's
Brilliant Silver

[chill]

Turnpikeboy, please post pictures soon. Not for me, mind you, but Randy is almost around the bend, and doesn't need any help going further around.

...did he say anal? See Randy, there are others....

chill

[chill]

Turnpikeboy, please post pictures soon. Not for me, mind you, but Randy is almost around the bend, and doesn't need any help going further around.

...did he say anal? See Randy, there are others....

chill

[TurnpikeBoy]

Ah, yes, there are many like us.....

Anyway, sorry for the long delay on response. In the process of moving, and really have my head up there. No pictures yet...I promise to get 'em out as soon as I can.

Get wheels as straight as you can perceive; also, the pin in the column can be used as a reference, rotationally-wise. The stock pin is just too short to hit the trip levers on the signal assembly. In my case, I wanted the column in a bit closer to the dash - I trimmed about 3/8" off the splined end of the upper column shaft (NOT touching the setscrew groove - VERY IMPORTANT!) and then assembled the whole column for layout. Mount up the signals with covers; make certain the front wheels are as straight as you can; then mark the spot on the shaft that is about midway between the trip levers (rotationally) and in line with them laterally. Pull all out, drill about a 5/32" hole NOT MORE than 1/8" deep where spotted. It is extremely important to: (1) get and measure your roll pin diameter BEFORE YOU DRILL, and (2) do NOT go too deep in drilling. Remember the pin only has to trip the levers, not snap them off the housing - in other words, not a whole lot of effort is involved in cancelling, so don't think you got to pound the pin right thru the shaft to get it to hold. You need a tight fit of the pin in the hole(figure .010" - .020" smaller hole than pin) so measure with a dial caliper or micrometer before you drill. Do your drilling with a drill press or mill to be certain you drill straight.

Hammer the pin into the hole, and put a drop of CA glue (Superglue) around the contact point just to ensure everything. Now - put it all back together and test the action. If the pin is too long, use a Dremel tool with a cutoff disc or grinding wheel to cut down to proper length - and bevel the cut end to make it work smooth. If you cut it too short, like this bonehead, take a small panhead sheetmetal screw and screw it into the end of the rollpin.

Reassemble everything, test it out and you will be blinkerless when you wanna be. I promise pictures to follow in a few days.[:P]

Yeehah

[TurnpikeBoy]

Ah, yes, there are many like us.....

Anyway, sorry for the long delay on response. In the process of moving, and really have my head up there. No pictures yet...I promise to get 'em out as soon as I can.

Get wheels as straight as you can perceive; also, the pin in the column can be used as a reference, rotationally-wise. The stock pin is just too short to hit the trip levers on the signal assembly. In my case, I wanted the column in a bit closer to the dash - I trimmed about 3/8" off the splined end of the upper column shaft (NOT touching the setscrew groove - VERY IMPORTANT!) and then assembled the whole column for layout. Mount up the signals with covers; make certain the front wheels are as straight as you can; then mark the spot on the shaft that is about midway between the trip levers (rotationally) and in line with them laterally. Pull all out, drill about a 5/32" hole NOT MORE than 1/8" deep where spotted. It is extremely important to: (1) get and measure your roll pin diameter BEFORE YOU DRILL, and (2) do NOT go too deep in drilling. Remember the pin only has to trip the levers, not snap them off the housing - in other words, not a whole lot of effort is involved in cancelling, so don't think you got to pound the pin right thru the shaft to get it to hold. You need a tight fit of the pin in the hole(figure .010" - .020" smaller hole than pin) so measure with a dial caliper or micrometer before you drill. Do your drilling with a drill press or mill to be certain you drill straight.

Hammer the pin into the hole, and put a drop of CA glue (Superglue) around the contact point just to ensure everything. Now - put it all back together and test the action. If the pin is too long, use a Dremel tool with a cutoff disc or grinding wheel to cut down to proper length - and bevel the cut end to make it work smooth. If you cut it too short, like this bonehead, take a small panhead sheetmetal screw and screw it into the end of the rollpin.

Reassemble everything, test it out and you will be blinkerless when you wanna be. I promise pictures to follow in a few days.[:P]

Yeehah

[Poorboy]

Not trying to steal anything from Turnpikeboy his idea is the fix for the turn signal canceling. But I have had time to do it and get some pictures. You go from the stearing shaft stop pin back towards the stearing wheel 1/2 inch and drill for the roll pin (I used a 1/4 inch drill, a 1/4 roll pin is actually about .260-265). You can drill any where around the shaft (I did mine 90 degrees from the stop pin)Install the pin and cut it off at 3/8 inch sticking out, bevel the edges. When you install it make sure the new pin is at the 3 o-clock position, which should be in the center of the switch. This is a very simple operation. On a finished car it should not take more than an hour. Just pull the stearing wheel off of the shaft and take the shaft out. It could be done in the car with just the wheel off and the shaft pulled back. I have pictures I will post if ya'll want.
If someone will explane how to do it!![:I]
Poorboy

[Poorboy]

Not trying to steal anything from Turnpikeboy his idea is the fix for the turn signal canceling. But I have had time to do it and get some pictures. You go from the stearing shaft stop pin back towards the stearing wheel 1/2 inch and drill for the roll pin (I used a 1/4 inch drill, a 1/4 roll pin is actually about .260-265). You can drill any where around the shaft (I did mine 90 degrees from the stop pin)Install the pin and cut it off at 3/8 inch sticking out, bevel the edges. When you install it make sure the new pin is at the 3 o-clock position, which should be in the center of the switch. This is a very simple operation. On a finished car it should not take more than an hour. Just pull the stearing wheel off of the shaft and take the shaft out. It could be done in the car with just the wheel off and the shaft pulled back. I have pictures I will post if ya'll want.
If someone will explane how to do it!![:I]
Poorboy

[Poorboy]

Here are some pictures

[Poorboy]

Here are some pictures

[TurnpikeBoy]

Yeah Poorboy! Thank God sombody has a camera. Nicely done - works great, too.

Yeehah

[TurnpikeBoy]

Yeah Poorboy! Thank God sombody has a camera. Nicely done - works great, too.

Yeehah

[Poorboy]

TurnpikeBoy, yes I'm very happy with the way it works. Unique is going to make this change to their steering shafts now in production. Anyone that feels they cannot or are unable to make this change can send the shaft to me. I will add the pin and send it back. The cost of this will be $25.00 plus return shipping. They will be shipped back the next busness day after arrival.

Poorboy

[Poorboy]

TurnpikeBoy, yes I'm very happy with the way it works. Unique is going to make this change to their steering shafts now in production. Anyone that feels they cannot or are unable to make this change can send the shaft to me. I will add the pin and send it back. The cost of this will be $25.00 plus return shipping. They will be shipped back the next busness day after arrival.

Poorboy

[GeorgiaSnake]

Poorboy - You are one slick puppy - thanks for the pictures and info. I will have self canceling turn signals now.

Randy

Unique 289 FIA
Southern Automotive 396
Team III 16's
Brilliant Silver

[GeorgiaSnake]

Poorboy - You are one slick puppy - thanks for the pictures and info. I will have self canceling turn signals now.

Randy

Unique 289 FIA
Southern Automotive 396
Team III 16's
Brilliant Silver

[TurnpikeBoy]

Alan / Maurice - once again you boys have given all another reason to take your work over anybody else. Adding this quickie fix will just cement anybody's reason to buy your car. Best kit on the market - bar none. My thanks to you personally for the most enjoyable product out there.
And no reason to look for Triumph columns or mustang columns or any other damn column - your is the best. By far.

Yeehah

[TurnpikeBoy]

Alan / Maurice - once again you boys have given all another reason to take your work over anybody else. Adding this quickie fix will just cement anybody's reason to buy your car. Best kit on the market - bar none. My thanks to you personally for the most enjoyable product out there.
And no reason to look for Triumph columns or mustang columns or any other damn column - your is the best. By far.

Yeehah

[Homewrecker]

I did this change over the weekend. Everything worked great. It took me 1/2 hour to do the whole thing. I didn't even remove the steering wheel. I just loosened the set collar on the shaft along with the first u-joint & slid the shaft back 8" so I could drill for the 1/4" roll pin. Excellant fix!

Thanks guys

Dave Brouwer
Unique 427 with SA 428 & Toploader

[Homewrecker]

I did this change over the weekend. Everything worked great. It took me 1/2 hour to do the whole thing. I didn't even remove the steering wheel. I just loosened the set collar on the shaft along with the first u-joint & slid the shaft back 8" so I could drill for the 1/4" roll pin. Excellant fix!

Thanks guys

Dave Brouwer
Unique 427 with SA 428 & Toploader

[casaleenie]

I can drive for miles with that damn directional on.... I usually don't check it until I make another turn and then just wince when I realize what I've been doing.... What a pain...

AL