Parking brake help, I think I lost my pads

[nolastyankee]

Dave,
Jaguar used a very simple Dana 44 based center section IRS in cars from the early XKE to the XJS. I can't tell you all the subtleties but there are differences to the diff casing and brake calipers with virtually identical suspension bits. Not sure of the cutoff but the ubiquitous "Jag IRS" that has found a way into almost every hot rod variant made continued to the mid 80's. I find myself looking at late 70's early 80's XJ6 parts because I know they fit most of our cars, and mine in particular. In terms of basic service there is not much variation between the rear ends. When Unique builds a chassis they vary the mounting angles to adapt the rear end they are installing to the chassis being built. We had to modify our diff mount when we changed housings.

This is one of the many reasons that I firmly maintain that there is no correct answer for any of these cars since there are not two the same - even if the basic choices on powertrain are identical!

[scott h]

how old is your car? in my case i i had the leak from the time i got the car. butch did what was necessary to replace/fix the seal, i had to send him the stub shaft. now that winter is coming you'll have alot of time to fix the problem before spring. I agree that the repairs would be easier with the center section out of the car but I am not sure of the trade off between removing the diff and the time it takes to remove the caliper, also I installed my parking brake after the body was on, once again not as easy but it is just time and patience.

[davids2toys]

My car is a 93. Actually the caliper does not look t5otally impossible to get out, the ebrake , I cant tell how to get it out, I just read in one publication that is descibing how to service them, they are talking about tie plates, whatever they are!

how old is your car? in my case i i had the leak from the time i got the car. butch did what was necessary to replace/fix the seal, i had to send him the stub shaft. now that winter is coming you'll have alot of time to fix the problem before spring. I agree that the repairs would be easier with the center section out of the car but I am not sure of the trade off between removing the diff and the time it takes to remove the caliper, also I installed my parking brake after the body was on, once again not as easy but it is just time and patience.

[nolastyankee]

If memory serves, e-brake calipers attach to the standard brake calipers with 2 bolts per side at the top of the standard brake caliper. The tie plates are wishbone shaped and function as psuedo-return springs. They bolt down from the top. The entire e-brake assembly sits at an angle so 'side' and 'top' are somewhat relative.

The pad should be accessible from the top underneath the tie plate.

[davids2toys]

I have not been able to get near this yet,just to busy around here, between the neck injection yesterday and the approaching holiday.
I do remember seeing two bolts on top of the caliper, also a swivel pin sort of setup for the levers to rotate on.
The outboard pads have about an 1/8 inch thickness, the inboard ones have about 1/4 inch, I don't know if this normal or not...but I am thinking of changing all the pads, it looks pretty obvious to me that the pistons will need to be retracted, is their any any special advice you could offer considering I will be doing this without removing the caliper.
Take care and have a great Thanksgiving...Dave

If memory serves, e-brake calipers attach to the standard brake calipers with 2 bolts per side at the top of the standard brake caliper. The tie plates are wishbone shaped and function as psuedo-return springs. They bolt down from the top. The entire e-brake assembly sits at an angle so 'side' and 'top' are somewhat relative.

The pad should be accessible from the top underneath the tie plate.

[nolastyankee]

Richard,
The Greenstuff pads are available through Summit racing, I'll get you the number and respond this weekend. I have the box on my workbench. My old pads came out pretty easily too, the challenge was getting the new pads in if they are thicker. I used two 2" x 1/4" steel plates about 8" in length and created a sort of "tweezer" to compress the pistons back into the caliper.

Imagine, if you will, the two steel plates with a 2"x4" wood block between them at one end, the caliper body and piston between the plates at the other end, and a large C clamp in the middle. I cranked down on the C clamp and compressed the piston. It's not a perfect tool but seemed to work for me. The hardest part is getting all the pieces clamped together and on caliper in the right place while working under a car on jack stands!

[davids2toys]

Richard,
The Greenstuff pads are available through Summit racing, I'll get you the number and respond this weekend. I have the box on my workbench. My old pads came out pretty easily too, the challenge was getting the new pads in if they are thicker. I used two 2" x 1/4" steel plates about 8" in length and created a sort of "tweezer" to compress the pistons back into the caliper.

Imagine, if you will, the two steel plates with a 2"x4" wood block between them at one end, the caliper body and piston between the plates at the other end, and a large C clamp in the middle. I cranked down on the C clamp and compressed the piston. It's not a perfect tool but seemed to work for me. The hardest part is getting all the pieces clamped together and on caliper in the right place while working under a car on jack stands!

This is great idea, I was just looking at this wondering about room for a C clamp.
I was just talking to the people at this site, very helpful, and they have all kinds of exploded views and diagrams. He also said they do mail out rebuilt calipers with the core exchange

www.captainjaguarscathouse.com

He was telling me all they do is put a big pair of channel locks on it and squeeze. I have a feeling it wont be that easy! As I was saying earlier, I have 1/4 inch of material on the inboard pad and 1/8 inch on the outboard, he said I should rebuild the calipers..I was going to just replace the pads and be done with it...is this normal on our cars, or should they be wearing equally?

Also interested in these Greenstuff brake pads, are yours street or race? We are talking rear pads right? I went on Summitt, they appear to be full organic and were around 99.00 for a set, but they dont say if a set is two or four, and I think they may have been for the front. The site I mentioned above sells the complete set of jaguar OEM pads for the rear for 34.00, if yours perform much better, I have no problem paying more!
I know you had said I would have a dana center section but from what I am reading, I think I have a Salisbury unit...it has a drain plug, and the Dana would not. Am I misunderstanding something here?

About another book/manual, this guy said it sounded like a series 3 XJ6 between 1980 and 1987 would be good referance for our rear end and brake setups, at least for mine anyway.
Dave

[davids2toys]

Well Brian,
I guess I am just not used to working in the dark all the time. I love diagrams, manuals and clear work instructions, but I guess it would be to easy then and anybody would be able to do it...lol?
I see what your saying, I just did not realize how much lack of standardization there is in these cars. I guess I will just do the best I can, ask a lot of questions, and hopefully learn a bunch along the way without screwing up to much!!!
Thanks

Dave,
Jaguar used a very simple Dana 44 based center section IRS in cars from the early XKE to the XJS. I can't tell you all the subtleties but there are differences to the diff casing and brake calipers with virtually identical suspension bits. Not sure of the cutoff but the ubiquitous "Jag IRS" that has found a way into almost every hot rod variant made continued to the mid 80's. I find myself looking at late 70's early 80's XJ6 parts because I know they fit most of our cars, and mine in particular. In terms of basic service there is not much variation between the rear ends. When Unique builds a chassis they vary the mounting angles to adapt the rear end they are installing to the chassis being built. We had to modify our diff mount when we changed housings.

This is one of the many reasons that I firmly maintain that there is no correct answer for any of these cars since there are not two the same - even if the basic choices on powertrain are identical!

[richardu]

Brian: Thanks for the info on the rear brake pads. I pulled my current pads out of the rear calipers with no problem. The calipers weren't retracted. EBC Greenstuff rear pads sound like the answer I'm looking for. Where can I find the part number for these pads, or do I have to just ask around for EBC pads that fit an XJ6 rear caliper set up? Have a great thanksgiving!

Dick