Radiator hoses??

[Brent]

I have been polishing and plating waiting for the painter to call.:( I have a couple of questions and I am looking for suggestions.

1) I have polished the aluminized exhaust tubing I used on my rad. hoses and they look good, will it remain this way or should I powder coat them? I don't mind polishing them lightly when I do the other items from time to time but I don't want them to be a P.I.T.A.

2) Has anyone used polished stainless instead of aluminum under the hood? It is more difficult to work with but I would rather spend the time now than polishing every other week later[V]

3) With the adj. rear shocks what setting has everyone grown to like? I drove the car around 500 miles last year before I took it apart:(for paint. It rode great but when mashing on the gas the front end gets very light and wants to stray so I know its too soft in the rear.

4) What can be done to help keep the trunk from smelling like fuel. I do not have a leak in my fill hose but it sure as hell smells like I do[xx(]

That's all for now.

Thanks for the help.

Brent

[souzape]

I don't know if you're looking for a show car finish or a nice utilitarian finish but I went on line and bought .060 OD 1.5 and 1.75 inch stainless tubing and used it to connect coolant hoses. Mine is not polished but it looks very nice under the hood, will not corrode, and will not contiminate your coolant system with paint/rust flakes a couple of years down the road. Local muffler shop bent the tubing to my specs at no charge. Cost was very reasonable from on-line dealer.

Phil Souza

[souzape]

I don't know if you're looking for a show car finish or a nice utilitarian finish but I went on line and bought .060 OD 1.5 and 1.75 inch stainless tubing and used it to connect coolant hoses. Mine is not polished but it looks very nice under the hood, will not corrode, and will not contiminate your coolant system with paint/rust flakes a couple of years down the road. Local muffler shop bent the tubing to my specs at no charge. Cost was very reasonable from on-line dealer.

Phil Souza

[luke-44]

I read your comment about the stainless under the hood with interest - I am getting ready to order a 289FIA - the engine aluminm kit at first glance seems a bit pricey - not knowing how extensive it really is - would this be a project you could do after taking delivery, or would you suggest I ask about getting it factory installed?

I hope you get a reply on the gas smell - I had this on my TR6 - very annoying - I ultimately traced it to loose clamp on the filler tube.

How much extra work was it to assemble the car in gelcoat and drive for a while and then disassemble? This isn't really a lot different than the suggested assembly procedure is it?


Phil - could you post a pic of your engine cooling tubes in SS? Sounds quite sharp.

Thanks for your help guys, luke-44

[luke-44]

I read your comment about the stainless under the hood with interest - I am getting ready to order a 289FIA - the engine aluminm kit at first glance seems a bit pricey - not knowing how extensive it really is - would this be a project you could do after taking delivery, or would you suggest I ask about getting it factory installed?

I hope you get a reply on the gas smell - I had this on my TR6 - very annoying - I ultimately traced it to loose clamp on the filler tube.

How much extra work was it to assemble the car in gelcoat and drive for a while and then disassemble? This isn't really a lot different than the suggested assembly procedure is it?


Phil - could you post a pic of your engine cooling tubes in SS? Sounds quite sharp.

Thanks for your help guys, luke-44

[Brent]

luke44,
Unlike the Georgia group I do not have anyone in my area that has a Unique Cobra that I could ask questions of or look at their car on a daily basis. I decided I would build it, drive it, and make notes of what I did and did not like then make the changes when I put it together the 2nd time. Most of the things I found were very minor. If I were to build another one I would not do it twice but on the first build I have no regrets. I did not know how much fabrication I would need to do and I did not want to do it around a painted car. This is a very complete kit and there is almost no fabrication needed. Every time I go to a Cobra event I feel better about my Unique decision. These cars do NOT take a back seat to any car at any event and the build was a blast.

If you would like to see what the Unique aluminum kit looks like go to the Club Cobra website-go to the picture gallery- and search "Rick Bagley". Rick has a great pic of the aluminum kit trial fit with kleko fasteners holding it in place. I chose to make it myself "I am hard headed".

The gas smell is terrible. I can only guess that it is from the flange on the sending unit where it bolts to the tank.

SOUZAPE, I never thought of that. Great idea. Thanks for the info.

thanks for the info!!
Brent

[Brent]

luke44,
Unlike the Georgia group I do not have anyone in my area that has a Unique Cobra that I could ask questions of or look at their car on a daily basis. I decided I would build it, drive it, and make notes of what I did and did not like then make the changes when I put it together the 2nd time. Most of the things I found were very minor. If I were to build another one I would not do it twice but on the first build I have no regrets. I did not know how much fabrication I would need to do and I did not want to do it around a painted car. This is a very complete kit and there is almost no fabrication needed. Every time I go to a Cobra event I feel better about my Unique decision. These cars do NOT take a back seat to any car at any event and the build was a blast.

If you would like to see what the Unique aluminum kit looks like go to the Club Cobra website-go to the picture gallery- and search "Rick Bagley". Rick has a great pic of the aluminum kit trial fit with kleko fasteners holding it in place. I chose to make it myself "I am hard headed".

The gas smell is terrible. I can only guess that it is from the flange on the sending unit where it bolts to the tank.

SOUZAPE, I never thought of that. Great idea. Thanks for the info.

thanks for the info!!
Brent

[eliminator]

On the fuel tank issue, "Gas Smell". Thought I had that whipped, the 5 screws that hold the sending unit in are sheet metal. That's not good as they tend to let fuel seep around them, I used Permatex Avaition sealer and coated the screws and holes, dont think the leak is there. When you fill up, the gas sits in the plastic hose up to the fuel cap, it must seep around that some, I double clamped that also. Still chasing the fuel fumes in the trunk. If anyone else has fixed the problem I would like to know how.

Eliminator

[eliminator]

On the fuel tank issue, "Gas Smell". Thought I had that whipped, the 5 screws that hold the sending unit in are sheet metal. That's not good as they tend to let fuel seep around them, I used Permatex Avaition sealer and coated the screws and holes, dont think the leak is there. When you fill up, the gas sits in the plastic hose up to the fuel cap, it must seep around that some, I double clamped that also. Still chasing the fuel fumes in the trunk. If anyone else has fixed the problem I would like to know how.

Eliminator

[eliminator]

On my Carrear Coil Overs I took the springs off and set the shocks in the 3rd position, Heavy. They have click adjustments in them once they are fully compressed. Once you do that the rest is up to the spring rate. Get Alan or Maurice to help there, I had mine changed to 325# in the rear and 300# in the front, (think that is right). Then from my frame rails to the ground I am 6 3/8" inches at all four corners, plus or minus 1/8". This will drive you crazy as you adjust , Drive, check, adjust and Drive. Right Front adjustment effects Left Rear, Ect. Ect. This will adjust ride height and ride. Mine hooks up good without excessive rear-end squat and dosn't dive in the front under braking.I am using 15" wheels with 245's on the front and 275's on the rear, BFG. Remember if you adjust the springs you have to drive the car and let it settle before you take measurements.

Eliminator

[eliminator]

On my Carrear Coil Overs I took the springs off and set the shocks in the 3rd position, Heavy. They have click adjustments in them once they are fully compressed. Once you do that the rest is up to the spring rate. Get Alan or Maurice to help there, I had mine changed to 325# in the rear and 300# in the front, (think that is right). Then from my frame rails to the ground I am 6 3/8" inches at all four corners, plus or minus 1/8". This will drive you crazy as you adjust , Drive, check, adjust and Drive. Right Front adjustment effects Left Rear, Ect. Ect. This will adjust ride height and ride. Mine hooks up good without excessive rear-end squat and dosn't dive in the front under braking.I am using 15" wheels with 245's on the front and 275's on the rear, BFG. Remember if you adjust the springs you have to drive the car and let it settle before you take measurements.

Eliminator

[souzape]

http://www.uniquecobra.com/uploaded/souzape/Dsc00247.jpg


http://www.uniquecobra.com/uploaded/souzape/Dsc00248.jpg


Here are the pics of my stainless tubes in the engine compartment. PHIL

[souzape]

http://www.uniquecobra.com/uploaded/souzape/Dsc00247.jpg


http://www.uniquecobra.com/uploaded/souzape/Dsc00248.jpg


Here are the pics of my stainless tubes in the engine compartment. PHIL

[Brent]

Phil,
I don't think the pics made it.

[Brent]

Phil,
I don't think the pics made it.

[luke-44]

They are there on my computer - next question is - where do you order these or how do you specify size/shape?

thanks, luke-44

[luke-44]

They are there on my computer - next question is - where do you order these or how do you specify size/shape?

thanks, luke-44

[souzape]

I think the site was www.onlinemetals.com . You do not need anything heavier the .060 wall thickness and you will need both 1.5 and 1.75 OD for the upper and lower hoses. Like I said, the local muffler shop did the bending and cutting for me based on templates I bent up from clothes hanger wire. Call me at 760 375-3024 (left coast time) if you wish to discuss further. PHIL

[souzape]

I think the site was www.onlinemetals.com . You do not need anything heavier the .060 wall thickness and you will need both 1.5 and 1.75 OD for the upper and lower hoses. Like I said, the local muffler shop did the bending and cutting for me based on templates I bent up from clothes hanger wire. Call me at 760 375-3024 (left coast time) if you wish to discuss further. PHIL

[luke-44]

Thanks Phil - the web address is all I need - I can take it from there. luke-44

[luke-44]

Thanks Phil - the web address is all I need - I can take it from there. luke-44

[Brent]

Thanks for the pics. I found a source for .015 polished stainless sheet. I think I will try it when (if) I get the car back from the painter. This stuff looks nice I hope I can work with it o.k. I will send pics as soon as I get started.

Brent

[Brent]

Thanks for the pics. I found a source for .015 polished stainless sheet. I think I will try it when (if) I get the car back from the painter. This stuff looks nice I hope I can work with it o.k. I will send pics as soon as I get started.

Brent

[GeorgiaSnake]

Make sure you get someone to roll the ends of the pipes or weld a small bead around them to give your hose clamp something to grab onto. Ask chill what happens if you don't. NAPA has some cool clamps that are self tightning. They have a washer stack that compresses as you tighten them. I used them on the fuel filler line and water lines.

http://www.uniquecobra.com/uploaded/georgiasnake/DSC00351.JPG

http://www.uniquecobra.com/uploaded/georgiasnake/DSC00352.JPG

http://www.uniquecobra.com/uploaded/georgiasnake/DSC00354.JPG

Randy

Unique 289 FIA
Southern Automotive 396
Team III 16's
Brilliant Silver

[GeorgiaSnake]

Make sure you get someone to roll the ends of the pipes or weld a small bead around them to give your hose clamp something to grab onto. Ask chill what happens if you don't. NAPA has some cool clamps that are self tightning. They have a washer stack that compresses as you tighten them. I used them on the fuel filler line and water lines.

http://www.uniquecobra.com/uploaded/georgiasnake/DSC00351.JPG

http://www.uniquecobra.com/uploaded/georgiasnake/DSC00352.JPG

http://www.uniquecobra.com/uploaded/georgiasnake/DSC00354.JPG

Randy

Unique 289 FIA
Southern Automotive 396
Team III 16's
Brilliant Silver

[Mike Geddes]

HI Brent et Al.
I've been chasing that fuel smell in the trunk of my 427 for 11 years now....I'll check out that sender flange ...maybe the answer.
Mike

Mike Geddes

[Mike Geddes]

HI Brent et Al.
I've been chasing that fuel smell in the trunk of my 427 for 11 years now....I'll check out that sender flange ...maybe the answer.
Mike

Mike Geddes

[pseim]

Back to the "fuel smell" problem.
Maybe I've been sitting here looking at just the chassis while the painter's working on the body, for too long, but has anyone considered having a new fuel tank built for the car?
It appears that a lower, wider, longer front to back, tank could be built and installed directly into the chassis. Then with a little fiberglass reworking the floor of the trunk could be raised which would put the tank totally out of the car.
I've talked to a local company that builds fuel tanks (their designer is also building a Cobra...) but have not yet gone to the point of building a cardboard mockup and getting a price.
Can't wait for the paint to be completed...
Paul

Paul

[pseim]

Back to the "fuel smell" problem.
Maybe I've been sitting here looking at just the chassis while the painter's working on the body, for too long, but has anyone considered having a new fuel tank built for the car?
It appears that a lower, wider, longer front to back, tank could be built and installed directly into the chassis. Then with a little fiberglass reworking the floor of the trunk could be raised which would put the tank totally out of the car.
I've talked to a local company that builds fuel tanks (their designer is also building a Cobra...) but have not yet gone to the point of building a cardboard mockup and getting a price.
Can't wait for the paint to be completed...
Paul

Paul

[Okiesnake]

It's beem a while since Iive been on this forum.
I had a local radiator shop ben me out some exhuast pipe and then had them ceramic coated. That was a couple of years ago and they still look as good as the day I installed them. If I were to do it over I would have done like Georgiasnake recommend with the small bead at the ends. However, I never have had any problems or leaks.
For some pics see http://pages.sbcglobal.net/tdockstett/page7.html
OkieSnake

[Okiesnake]

It's beem a while since Iive been on this forum.
I had a local radiator shop ben me out some exhuast pipe and then had them ceramic coated. That was a couple of years ago and they still look as good as the day I installed them. If I were to do it over I would have done like Georgiasnake recommend with the small bead at the ends. However, I never have had any problems or leaks.
For some pics see http://pages.sbcglobal.net/tdockstett/page7.html
OkieSnake

[GeorgiaSnake]

I have not experienced any gas smell in the trunk area to date. Look at my pictures above showing the clamps I used (double) on the filler neck. I also used them on the coolant lines.

Randy

Unique 289 FIA
Southern Automotive 396
Team III 16's
Brilliant Silver

[GeorgiaSnake]

I have not experienced any gas smell in the trunk area to date. Look at my pictures above showing the clamps I used (double) on the filler neck. I also used them on the coolant lines.

Randy

Unique 289 FIA
Southern Automotive 396
Team III 16's
Brilliant Silver

[pseim]

I brought back this old topic since there had been much discussion about welding beads or rivets or whatever to help keep the hoses on the tubing.
We came up with a source for a neat little tool (always room for another tool) that does the beading. It is available from Earl's Service shop in San Diego in a variety of different sizes. Pictured are the 1 1/2 and 2" sizes. I'll find out in a day or so how it works

http://www.uniquecobra.com/uploaded/pseim/beadingtool.jpg

Paul
4279425

[pgermond]

Regarding the fuel smell in the trunk..... must be dumb luck, but I have never had the problem. Prior to assembling the car I read a lot of posts re: this problem and used the Aviation Permatex Eliminator refers to around the sending unit. I also used the heavy duty self-tightening clamps pictured in GerogiaSnake's post. I couldn't find them at NAPA.... mine came off an old water cooled IBM mainframe (according to the guy that gave them to me).

My radiator stuff is powder coated, and the shocks are set as they were received.

Good luck.

Phil

427 Roadster, #4279436
Southern Automotive FE
3:31 and Toploader

Roseville (N.Cal)

[eliminator]

Paul,

I bet those tools work just great, let us know how they worked for sure.
It looks to me like after you insert them and turn them a few times they will make a nice bead up to the size and depth of the bearing. What's the cost on them?

Rick
#4279405

[pseim]

Rick,
That appears to be the way they work. They were $63.83 each.

Paul
4279425

[pseim]

The tool works great - nice little bead!http://www.uniquecobra.com/uploaded/pseim/beadedtube.jpg

Paul
4279425

[ralphscott]

Wow! Very nice Paul it even looks like the pipe is a little smaller at the opening to ease getting the hose started.

Ralph