Getting rotors off rear end

[jhaynie]

My rear brakes will not quit screaming. I have settled to the fact that my right rear rotor has an imperfection that must be causing the squealing. After installing a new front master cylinder and understanding the balance bar, the general performance of the brakes has increased, but the squealing continues after the rear brakes warm up.

Here is the problem. I found a high spot on the rotor no more than 1/32" wide and a little less tall. It seems that something must have caused the bad to not bear on this part of the rotor and left this high spot. This is the only thing I can find that doesn't look right. The pad even had the same worn spot on it when I removed them. Tried the silicone, but it didn't help.

I need some detailed instructions on getting the rotors off the rear of the car, and I'm not an expert mechanic by any means but did the other brake work myself. Should I take this somewhere, or remove them myself. Anyone know where to get this info?

[weaver]

I would try replacing the pads and see if that helps, they are easy to change and would be a quick fix.

Alan

[weaver]

I would try replacing the pads and see if that helps, they are easy to change and would be a quick fix.

Alan

[jhaynie]

alan,

I thought about that. I did attempt to flatten the pads with some sandpaper, I was worried that they may have been glazed. When I first pulled them, they were worn unevenly from front to back.

John

[jhaynie]

alan,

I thought about that. I did attempt to flatten the pads with some sandpaper, I was worried that they may have been glazed. When I first pulled them, they were worn unevenly from front to back.

John

[rdorman]

A couple of things come to mind.

You mentioned uneven wear front to rear on the pads. I am assuming that the leading edge is more worn than the rear. This is quite common as the leading edge wears faster than the rear. It is called pad taper. In calipers with four pistons or more this is dealt with by having different size pistons. Since that is not really an option, pads can be modified to accomidate the difference in wear. Of course a new set of pads or milling yours flat will work as well! I use EBC greenstuff pads on the rear and they work great! Tapered pads will have a tendency to squeal since the pad must 'cock' to squarly contact the rotor.

Make sure the calipers are 'normal' to the rotors (not 'cocked' in either direction), it is the piston itself that you are interested in being square to the rotor. Shim or machine the caliper ears until they are right. No more than .002 out. Check the rotor run out and thickness while you are under there. These rotors where not made to be turned.

Check those items, replace the pads. Or perhaps a louder exhaust;)

Rick

[rdorman]

A couple of things come to mind.

You mentioned uneven wear front to rear on the pads. I am assuming that the leading edge is more worn than the rear. This is quite common as the leading edge wears faster than the rear. It is called pad taper. In calipers with four pistons or more this is dealt with by having different size pistons. Since that is not really an option, pads can be modified to accomidate the difference in wear. Of course a new set of pads or milling yours flat will work as well! I use EBC greenstuff pads on the rear and they work great! Tapered pads will have a tendency to squeal since the pad must 'cock' to squarly contact the rotor.

Make sure the calipers are 'normal' to the rotors (not 'cocked' in either direction), it is the piston itself that you are interested in being square to the rotor. Shim or machine the caliper ears until they are right. No more than .002 out. Check the rotor run out and thickness while you are under there. These rotors where not made to be turned.

Check those items, replace the pads. Or perhaps a louder exhaust;)

Rick