alignment specs needed

[WBofTN]

Can anyone post some alignment specs that work well for
a 427 s/c.
thanks
Wes

'93 Unique 427/351W/4sp

[Okiesnake]

go to http://www.uniquemotorcars.com/AssemblyManual.pdf for the specs from the ass'y manual
The specs are on the last page of the manual.

[Okiesnake]

go to http://www.uniquemotorcars.com/AssemblyManual.pdf for the specs from the ass'y manual
The specs are on the last page of the manual.

[eliminator]

I was told by Butch Capps who has built 10 Unique Cars that those spec's are no good. I have the spec's. he gave me and I will dig them out and post them. Be sure you have your ride height where you want it, tire pressure checked, and all suspension bolts good and tight before you have it alligned. Also car needs at least 250 miles on it in order to settle the suspension.

Eliminator

[eliminator]

I was told by Butch Capps who has built 10 Unique Cars that those spec's are no good. I have the spec's. he gave me and I will dig them out and post them. Be sure you have your ride height where you want it, tire pressure checked, and all suspension bolts good and tight before you have it alligned. Also car needs at least 250 miles on it in order to settle the suspension.

Eliminator

[WBofTN]

thanks Eliminator -
I read some where else about an improved setup (something a/b having more toe-in).
Also: My car has a slight pull to the right, but when
I hit a bump - it pulls like crazy to the right.
Should I be looking for something in particular???
Wes

'93 Unique 427/351W/4sp

[WBofTN]

thanks Eliminator -
I read some where else about an improved setup (something a/b having more toe-in).
Also: My car has a slight pull to the right, but when
I hit a bump - it pulls like crazy to the right.
Should I be looking for something in particular???
Wes

'93 Unique 427/351W/4sp

[Okiesnake]

eliminator,
If you can, please post the better specs ASAP. My car in im the shop at this very moment and I am having them also do an allignment while it is there.
Thanks.

[Okiesnake]

eliminator,
If you can, please post the better specs ASAP. My car in im the shop at this very moment and I am having them also do an allignment while it is there.
Thanks.

[eliminator]

Sorry, for the delay but the info was buried at home. REVISED[^] 8/28/2003
Rear End:1/2 degree negative camber,
Rear Tow in 1/32" on both wheels.
Total Tow in 1/16"
Caster, no change (because of what has to be done to change rear end caster)
Front End: 1/2 degree negative camber,
Caster left side, 2 1/4 degree positive
right side, 2 1/2 degree positive
Tow in 1/16" for each wheel, 1/8" total
Make sure you have at least a 3/4 tank of fuel.
Rear Camber can be changed the hard way and or the easier way. Jag. made .020 shims that go between the axle and brake rotors, 4 bolts. This is the hard way, nearly impossible at the time of alignment. You can loosen the 4 bolts and use the alignment shims, normally 1/32" to 1/16" will do it, then tighten the bolts back. I have done both since I had a stub axle seal leaking and had to take the axle loose.
Then there are variatioins to this alignment based on personal preference, driving styles, ect.
All measurements can convert from degree's to inches and from inches to degree's.[^]



Eliminator

[eliminator]

Sorry, for the delay but the info was buried at home. REVISED[^] 8/28/2003
Rear End:1/2 degree negative camber,
Rear Tow in 1/32" on both wheels.
Total Tow in 1/16"
Caster, no change (because of what has to be done to change rear end caster)
Front End: 1/2 degree negative camber,
Caster left side, 2 1/4 degree positive
right side, 2 1/2 degree positive
Tow in 1/16" for each wheel, 1/8" total
Make sure you have at least a 3/4 tank of fuel.
Rear Camber can be changed the hard way and or the easier way. Jag. made .020 shims that go between the axle and brake rotors, 4 bolts. This is the hard way, nearly impossible at the time of alignment. You can loosen the 4 bolts and use the alignment shims, normally 1/32" to 1/16" will do it, then tighten the bolts back. I have done both since I had a stub axle seal leaking and had to take the axle loose.
Then there are variatioins to this alignment based on personal preference, driving styles, ect.
All measurements can convert from degree's to inches and from inches to degree's.[^]



Eliminator

[eliminator]

Wes,

After the alignment drive the car to settle the suspension the get underneath the car and adjust the front and rear stabilizer bars, to negative adjustment. That means that the bolts can go in and out just as the car sits. Sounds hard to do but really isn't once you do it. Just remember you can't jack it up to do this. After driving and on a good level garage floor, let the side pipes cool.

Eliminator

[eliminator]

Wes,

After the alignment drive the car to settle the suspension the get underneath the car and adjust the front and rear stabilizer bars, to negative adjustment. That means that the bolts can go in and out just as the car sits. Sounds hard to do but really isn't once you do it. Just remember you can't jack it up to do this. After driving and on a good level garage floor, let the side pipes cool.

Eliminator

[WBofTN]

Eliminator
Thanks for posting the specs. I have printed them out
and will soon be heading to the alignment shop.
Wes

'93 Unique 427/351W/4sp

[WBofTN]

Eliminator
Thanks for posting the specs. I have printed them out
and will soon be heading to the alignment shop.
Wes

'93 Unique 427/351W/4sp

[TurnpikeBoy]

huh??? 5/8* NEGATIVE caster?? Along with TWO different camber settings (one negative, one positive) for the front end? Don't want to sound combative, but is this for real? Sounds like a car that would be VERY willing to change directions, and the way these things are already somehow this sounds like an invitation to big trouble.

Maybe I read it wrong.....[xx(]

Yeehah

[TurnpikeBoy]

huh??? 5/8* NEGATIVE caster?? Along with TWO different camber settings (one negative, one positive) for the front end? Don't want to sound combative, but is this for real? Sounds like a car that would be VERY willing to change directions, and the way these things are already somehow this sounds like an invitation to big trouble.

Maybe I read it wrong.....[xx(]

Yeehah

[WBofTN]

Okiesnake-
Have you aligned your car yet? Just wondering which
specs you used and the results.
Wes

'93 Unique 427/351W/4sp

[WBofTN]

Okiesnake-
Have you aligned your car yet? Just wondering which
specs you used and the results.
Wes

'93 Unique 427/351W/4sp

[eliminator]

Front toe spec's missing, check out my notes. Think the front camber spec's have the toe included. As they do have negative and positive specs. Post the right spec's later today.

Eliminator

[eliminator]

Front toe spec's missing, check out my notes. Think the front camber spec's have the toe included. As they do have negative and positive specs. Post the right spec's later today.

Eliminator

[eliminator]

Wes,
Saw your post on the same subject on Club Cobra, amazing, with all the know it alls only one really good reply out of 2. Kinda like this forum 102 views and no real input. Is it a deal where nobody knows anything about the alignment on a Cobra. How about you Turnpike Boy what alignment spec's are you using on your car?? There really is probably two set up's or two series of set up's, one for track and one for street. Any input on this Alan? Since I am a new owner I would like to hear some opions on this subject so I can learn something.

Eliminator

[eliminator]

Wes,
Saw your post on the same subject on Club Cobra, amazing, with all the know it alls only one really good reply out of 2. Kinda like this forum 102 views and no real input. Is it a deal where nobody knows anything about the alignment on a Cobra. How about you Turnpike Boy what alignment spec's are you using on your car?? There really is probably two set up's or two series of set up's, one for track and one for street. Any input on this Alan? Since I am a new owner I would like to hear some opions on this subject so I can learn something.

Eliminator

[WBofTN]

Eliminator:
I am reluctant to head to he alignment shop until I
get that warm fuzzy feeling a/b all this. Must be some
kind of black art or something. Or maybe once you car
drives strait - you just forget about it and/or just to lazy to post. I'm just being a stickler on this b/c I plan on doing some track events.
Wes

'93 Unique 427/351W/4sp

[WBofTN]

Eliminator:
I am reluctant to head to he alignment shop until I
get that warm fuzzy feeling a/b all this. Must be some
kind of black art or something. Or maybe once you car
drives strait - you just forget about it and/or just to lazy to post. I'm just being a stickler on this b/c I plan on doing some track events.
Wes

'93 Unique 427/351W/4sp

[eliminator]

Wes,
Maybe if we shake the tree hard enough something will fall out. From what I see there is a set up for track events and one for street, Looks like everyone is pretty much on the same page as far as tow in, 1/16" front and rear, guess thats total toe or 1/32" each wheel. Now to get the front and rear camber???

Eliminator

[eliminator]

Wes,
Maybe if we shake the tree hard enough something will fall out. From what I see there is a set up for track events and one for street, Looks like everyone is pretty much on the same page as far as tow in, 1/16" front and rear, guess thats total toe or 1/32" each wheel. Now to get the front and rear camber???

Eliminator

[eliminator]

The aligment update has been added to the previous specifications. SEE ABOVE
I have corrected my errors and omissions.

Eliminator

[eliminator]

The aligment update has been added to the previous specifications. SEE ABOVE
I have corrected my errors and omissions.

Eliminator

[TurnpikeBoy]

<img src=images/icon_speech_ok.gif border=0 width=17 height=15 alt=Insert Speech Icon: OK>

Morning, Elim'ntr. I have the car set up according to the specs provided in the manual; camber on the rear wheels not correct as yet, tho, had to get shims for the u-joint/stubshaft flange (have 'em, just got to get back to the alignment shop). Overall, the car handles pretty well, but with -3* camber on the back end the car is a bit jumpy in the buttend; but, this is with standard shocks. I understand that the adjustables are MUCH better in this regard. All said, it tracks straight, corners flat, stops straight..like it's supposed to. I would be very, very reluctant to put negative caster in ANY car but especially these...response to steering inputs would be beyond fast and would not be self-correcting - would only get worse.

No doubt racecars use somewhat different alignments but their application is also somewhat different. They will tend toward less positive camber - even some negative. Not to be pious, but I sure don't race the car on streets much.....anyway, some experimentation will likely set you up with what you're looking for - just be sure to stay clear of negative caster settings, front or rear.

Yeehah

[TurnpikeBoy]

<img src=images/icon_speech_ok.gif border=0 width=17 height=15 alt=Insert Speech Icon: OK>

Morning, Elim'ntr. I have the car set up according to the specs provided in the manual; camber on the rear wheels not correct as yet, tho, had to get shims for the u-joint/stubshaft flange (have 'em, just got to get back to the alignment shop). Overall, the car handles pretty well, but with -3* camber on the back end the car is a bit jumpy in the buttend; but, this is with standard shocks. I understand that the adjustables are MUCH better in this regard. All said, it tracks straight, corners flat, stops straight..like it's supposed to. I would be very, very reluctant to put negative caster in ANY car but especially these...response to steering inputs would be beyond fast and would not be self-correcting - would only get worse.

No doubt racecars use somewhat different alignments but their application is also somewhat different. They will tend toward less positive camber - even some negative. Not to be pious, but I sure don't race the car on streets much.....anyway, some experimentation will likely set you up with what you're looking for - just be sure to stay clear of negative caster settings, front or rear.

Yeehah

[eliminator]

This is a little helpfull, like alignment 101 for us freshmen. www.familycar.com/alignment.htm
Good Reading!

Eliminator

[eliminator]

This is a little helpfull, like alignment 101 for us freshmen. www.familycar.com/alignment.htm
Good Reading!

Eliminator

[GeorgiaSnake]

Like I posted on CC I used the Unique settings and the car seems ok. I have the standard rear shocks as well. I have not adjusted the front bar yet, another winter project.

I have heard of different setting for radial vs bias ply tires.

Randy

Unique 289 FIA
Southern Automotive 396
Team III 16's
Brilliant Silver

[GeorgiaSnake]

Like I posted on CC I used the Unique settings and the car seems ok. I have the standard rear shocks as well. I have not adjusted the front bar yet, another winter project.

I have heard of different setting for radial vs bias ply tires.

Randy

Unique 289 FIA
Southern Automotive 396
Team III 16's
Brilliant Silver

[eliminator]

Just returned from the alignment shop, used the spec's posted that I received from Butch Capps. The guy that did the work on my car was the best man at this shop that does all kind of work, trucks, heavy trucks, motorhomes , ect. He agreed with the spec's for the car and steet use. All I can say is that the 20 mile drive home on the back roads was fun, didn't realize how bad the car was, it's a pleasure to drive now, hit the 70-90 MPH mark and was really stabile and smooth. Even the front-end shimmy is 90% gone, just a little at 62MPH, which is front tire balance related. We hit the front end numbers dead on and we were off on rear camber that is a near 0 on one side a little positive on the other. The shimms on the axle have to be changed to adjust this, take some out (winter project). Thats my story and I'am sticking to it.

Eliminator

[eliminator]

Just returned from the alignment shop, used the spec's posted that I received from Butch Capps. The guy that did the work on my car was the best man at this shop that does all kind of work, trucks, heavy trucks, motorhomes , ect. He agreed with the spec's for the car and steet use. All I can say is that the 20 mile drive home on the back roads was fun, didn't realize how bad the car was, it's a pleasure to drive now, hit the 70-90 MPH mark and was really stabile and smooth. Even the front-end shimmy is 90% gone, just a little at 62MPH, which is front tire balance related. We hit the front end numbers dead on and we were off on rear camber that is a near 0 on one side a little positive on the other. The shimms on the axle have to be changed to adjust this, take some out (winter project). Thats my story and I'am sticking to it.

Eliminator

[TurnpikeBoy]

<img src=images/icon_speech_ok.gif border=0 width=17 height=15 alt=Insert Speech Icon: OK>
Will give em a shot; you sound pretty happy with the results and since I got to go get the rear done anyway, will rebop the fronts. Nuthin to lose, and from the sound of it lots to gain. Thanks, Eliminator. :):)

Yeehah

[TurnpikeBoy]

<img src=images/icon_speech_ok.gif border=0 width=17 height=15 alt=Insert Speech Icon: OK>
Will give em a shot; you sound pretty happy with the results and since I got to go get the rear done anyway, will rebop the fronts. Nuthin to lose, and from the sound of it lots to gain. Thanks, Eliminator. :):)

Yeehah

[WBofTN]

sounds like a plan - I have that same 62mph shimmy too.
I would love to get rid of that!
Eliminator - did you put the wheel weights on the inside of you wheels?
Shooting for a visit to the alignment shop one day next week - weather permitting.

'93 Unique 427/351W/4sp

[WBofTN]

sounds like a plan - I have that same 62mph shimmy too.
I would love to get rid of that!
Eliminator - did you put the wheel weights on the inside of you wheels?
Shooting for a visit to the alignment shop one day next week - weather permitting.

'93 Unique 427/351W/4sp

[eliminator]

Wes,

I have Trigo's with the weights inside....I am really looking at puting them on the outside. Think that's the only way to completely get rid of the shimmy, wish it was a 75 mph shimmy. Seems like 55 - 65 is the crusing speed I use the most. Good luck think you and TurnpikeBoy will be happy with the results.

Eliminator

[eliminator]

Wes,

I have Trigo's with the weights inside....I am really looking at puting them on the outside. Think that's the only way to completely get rid of the shimmy, wish it was a 75 mph shimmy. Seems like 55 - 65 is the crusing speed I use the most. Good luck think you and TurnpikeBoy will be happy with the results.

Eliminator

[eliminator]

Just got back from the Shades of the Past Car Show at Pigeon Forge, TN. We had about 17 Unique cars there on Sat. Every morning we did a breakfast run over to Townsend, TN. After running through the hills I can say I am very pleased. The Breakfast runs are pretty EXCITING and you learn alot about your car. Car steered very good through all kind of turns. The suspension is definetly SETTLED.

Eliminator

[eliminator]

Just got back from the Shades of the Past Car Show at Pigeon Forge, TN. We had about 17 Unique cars there on Sat. Every morning we did a breakfast run over to Townsend, TN. After running through the hills I can say I am very pleased. The Breakfast runs are pretty EXCITING and you learn alot about your car. Car steered very good through all kind of turns. The suspension is definetly SETTLED.

Eliminator

[GeorgiaSnake]

I answered this post on the CC site - I used the factory settings for my initial set up (150 miles) and will tinker with it after 1000 miles. The car seems ok with the current settings. I may upgrade to Carrera shocks later and really get myself confussed.

I have found the car very sensitive to tire pressure changes and think that is vital to get the car hooked up. I am running about 20 psi in the rear and 22 in the front cold.

Randy

Unique 289 FIA
Southern Automotive 396
Team III 16's
Brilliant Silver

[GeorgiaSnake]

I answered this post on the CC site - I used the factory settings for my initial set up (150 miles) and will tinker with it after 1000 miles. The car seems ok with the current settings. I may upgrade to Carrera shocks later and really get myself confussed.

I have found the car very sensitive to tire pressure changes and think that is vital to get the car hooked up. I am running about 20 psi in the rear and 22 in the front cold.

Randy

Unique 289 FIA
Southern Automotive 396
Team III 16's
Brilliant Silver

[eliminator]

Sounds pretty low on tire pressure, you could pull a tire off the rim. Is this cold tire pressure, if so what is you tire pressure hot. Need a infared temp. gun to get your reading across the tires to check tire pressure and alignment. My car with 245's on front and 275's on the rear (15" rims) does real good at 26-28 PSI COLD. There's no mystery with Carerra Coil Overs, just lets you dial in ride height and gives you the ability to change spring rates, 275#, 300#, ect.

Eliminator

[eliminator]

Sounds pretty low on tire pressure, you could pull a tire off the rim. Is this cold tire pressure, if so what is you tire pressure hot. Need a infared temp. gun to get your reading across the tires to check tire pressure and alignment. My car with 245's on front and 275's on the rear (15" rims) does real good at 26-28 PSI COLD. There's no mystery with Carerra Coil Overs, just lets you dial in ride height and gives you the ability to change spring rates, 275#, 300#, ect.

Eliminator

[WBofTN]

I lost this thread and found it today. Finally got my
alignment (2weeks ago).
Used Eliminator's specs - except for the rear shims (shop did not have any) and I am much happier now.
Car is much more responsive. Now I just need to find
a curvy country road.
Thanks guys.
WB

'93 Unique 427/351W/4sp

[WBofTN]

I lost this thread and found it today. Finally got my
alignment (2weeks ago).
Used Eliminator's specs - except for the rear shims (shop did not have any) and I am much happier now.
Car is much more responsive. Now I just need to find
a curvy country road.
Thanks guys.
WB

'93 Unique 427/351W/4sp

[GeorgiaSnake]

Eliminator that is the cold pressure. I know some folks are running 18 cold in the rear [?]. I marked the tires and wheels to make sure I wasn't spinning the wheel inside the tire. The car rides much better with the lower pressure and is fine for the street. When I hit the track I will bump it up 10 psi and work it down from there.

Randy

Unique 289 FIA
Southern Automotive 396
Team III 16's
Brilliant Silver

[GeorgiaSnake]

Eliminator that is the cold pressure. I know some folks are running 18 cold in the rear [?]. I marked the tires and wheels to make sure I wasn't spinning the wheel inside the tire. The car rides much better with the lower pressure and is fine for the street. When I hit the track I will bump it up 10 psi and work it down from there.

Randy

Unique 289 FIA
Southern Automotive 396
Team III 16's
Brilliant Silver

[Okiesnake]

Well, I finally got my car aligned using Eliminator’s alignment specs and I can definitely see a big improvement over the “Factory” specs. The car is more responsive to steering input. I also got rid of the wheel hop I was getting when launching off the line. Thanks Eliminator!

[Okiesnake]

Well, I finally got my car aligned using Eliminator’s alignment specs and I can definitely see a big improvement over the “Factory” specs. The car is more responsive to steering input. I also got rid of the wheel hop I was getting when launching off the line. Thanks Eliminator!

[patrija]

I had my car aligned today using Eliminator's specs and had the wheels speed balanced - WOW what a difference. Car rides much smoother now and doesn't push as much in the turns. Rear alignment was right on, front had too much toe. I also had the weights put on the outside of the rims as recommended by the shop (and here). Thanks!

[gasman]

I can see a huge difference in handling if my tire pressure (all four) isn't dead on 28.5 with a digital gauge. Try it.

Steve Foushee

[patrija]

Steve, I'll give that a try, thanks. I've been running a bit high I think: 30/32