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dmiller
September 19th, 2003, 08:59 PM
avoid my mistake, i purchased stainless steel exhaust header "studs". they looked really nice, but problem is that the nuts for the studs are too large to clear the header pipes. after a long time of trying different ways to make clearance, i learned that the exhaust header "bolts" have undersized heads and fit with no problems.

this is just another example of why this project is costing 2x what i thought, and 3x how long i thought.

GeorgiaSnake
September 19th, 2003, 10:33 PM
If I were doing it over I would go with allen head bolts on the headers. The regular bolts are a pain in the arse. Another winter time project [^]

Randy

Unique 289 FIA
Southern Automotive 396
Team III 16's
Brilliant Silver

GeorgiaSnake
September 19th, 2003, 10:33 PM
If I were doing it over I would go with allen head bolts on the headers. The regular bolts are a pain in the arse. Another winter time project [^]

Randy

Unique 289 FIA
Southern Automotive 396
Team III 16's
Brilliant Silver

dmiller
September 20th, 2003, 03:29 AM
socket head bolts would be a good idea. think i'm going to change them before the body makes access difficult, and heat cycles make them difficult to remove. thanks for the idea.

dmiller
September 20th, 2003, 03:29 AM
socket head bolts would be a good idea. think i'm going to change them before the body makes access difficult, and heat cycles make them difficult to remove. thanks for the idea.

Brent
September 20th, 2003, 06:17 AM
Don't forget the anti-seze on the threads for aluminum or steel heads.
:(
Brent

Brent
September 20th, 2003, 06:17 AM
Don't forget the anti-seze on the threads for aluminum or steel heads.
:(
Brent

dmiller
September 20th, 2003, 08:22 AM
i learned value of never-seeze long time ago, i'm a believer, thanks

dmiller
September 20th, 2003, 08:22 AM
i learned value of never-seeze long time ago, i'm a believer, thanks

eliminator
September 20th, 2003, 11:15 PM
Personally I like the 12 point ARP stainless header bolts, 3/8" size and easy to get to even on a FE engine.

Eliminator

eliminator
September 20th, 2003, 11:15 PM
Personally I like the 12 point ARP stainless header bolts, 3/8" size and easy to get to even on a FE engine.

Eliminator

pgermond
September 21st, 2003, 04:51 AM
Speaking of exhaust. Picked up my headers and side pipes from the coater yesterday (MicroCoat out of Santa Rosa. The owner, Bruce is a heck fo a nice guy). Can you believe it - I can't find a shop that's open today that carries exhaust gasket material to use on the collectors!?!:( Gotta wait till next week to mount the pipes.

Nice looking work, huh[?]

http://www.uniquecobra.com/uploaded/pgermond/P9210001.JPG

427 Roadster
Southern Automotive FE
Toploader

Roseville (N.Cal)

pgermond
September 21st, 2003, 04:51 AM
Speaking of exhaust. Picked up my headers and side pipes from the coater yesterday (MicroCoat out of Santa Rosa. The owner, Bruce is a heck fo a nice guy). Can you believe it - I can't find a shop that's open today that carries exhaust gasket material to use on the collectors!?!:( Gotta wait till next week to mount the pipes.

Nice looking work, huh[?]

http://www.uniquecobra.com/uploaded/pgermond/P9210001.JPG

427 Roadster
Southern Automotive FE
Toploader

Roseville (N.Cal)

eliminator
September 21st, 2003, 09:24 PM
Great looking ceramic coating, looks like chrome. On your jack stands, some nylon webbing over the top of the jack stand and duct tape to secure it works great. Won't scratch your frame up.

Eliminator

eliminator
September 21st, 2003, 09:24 PM
Great looking ceramic coating, looks like chrome. On your jack stands, some nylon webbing over the top of the jack stand and duct tape to secure it works great. Won't scratch your frame up.

Eliminator

jhaynie
September 21st, 2003, 09:26 PM
I discovered the other day that nearly all of the header bolts on the right side of my engine were loose. I retorqed them and they are ok now. Didn't take the time to use any threadlock or anything like that. Do you need it with Cast iron heads?

jhaynie
September 21st, 2003, 09:26 PM
I discovered the other day that nearly all of the header bolts on the right side of my engine were loose. I retorqed them and they are ok now. Didn't take the time to use any threadlock or anything like that. Do you need it with Cast iron heads?

WBofTN
September 21st, 2003, 10:13 PM
I cant remember the name of the header bolt I have, but
they have a cam locking devise that slips on after you
torque them down - Works great - no way for them to
back out.
WB

'93 Unique 427/351W/4sp

WBofTN
September 21st, 2003, 10:13 PM
I cant remember the name of the header bolt I have, but
they have a cam locking devise that slips on after you
torque them down - Works great - no way for them to
back out.
WB

'93 Unique 427/351W/4sp

rdorman
September 21st, 2003, 11:47 PM
Forget the gasket materials for the collectors. Just use high temp atv.
Rick

rdorman
September 21st, 2003, 11:47 PM
Forget the gasket materials for the collectors. Just use high temp atv.
Rick

Tony Radford
September 22nd, 2003, 09:36 AM
After having a couple of my header bolts (black square head) vibrate out, I purchased a set of socket head bolts from Pep Boys and replaced them. They are much easier to work with. I had to replace both of my header gaskets (went from paper to copper gaskets) and it was much easier removing and tightning the socket head bolts.

Tony Radford
September 22nd, 2003, 09:36 AM
After having a couple of my header bolts (black square head) vibrate out, I purchased a set of socket head bolts from Pep Boys and replaced them. They are much easier to work with. I had to replace both of my header gaskets (went from paper to copper gaskets) and it was much easier removing and tightning the socket head bolts.

excelguru
September 23rd, 2003, 10:20 AM
John - Don't use a thread locker (Loctite, for example) on those bolts!!! One day you'll wish you hadn't.

I purchased socket-head ARP bolts (one of the few things I did right - LOL) and love 'em. You WILL have to re-tighten the bolts after the first couple hundred miles. After my first re-tightening, I haven't had to do it since (I have over 5000 miles now).

Keith :)
Unique Motorcars (http://www.uniquecobrareplicas.com)
Southern Automotive (http://www.southernautomotiveengines.com)
Bruce Bunn (the painter) (http://www.jodecoautobody.com)

My Photo Album (http://members5.clubphoto.com/keith355593/owner-429c-1.phtml)

excelguru
September 23rd, 2003, 10:20 AM
John - Don't use a thread locker (Loctite, for example) on those bolts!!! One day you'll wish you hadn't.

I purchased socket-head ARP bolts (one of the few things I did right - LOL) and love 'em. You WILL have to re-tighten the bolts after the first couple hundred miles. After my first re-tightening, I haven't had to do it since (I have over 5000 miles now).

Keith :)
Unique Motorcars (http://www.uniquecobrareplicas.com)
Southern Automotive (http://www.southernautomotiveengines.com)
Bruce Bunn (the painter) (http://www.jodecoautobody.com)

My Photo Album (http://members5.clubphoto.com/keith355593/owner-429c-1.phtml)

eliminator
September 23rd, 2003, 10:00 PM
If you have the orignial cast iron heads you will need to tighten them every once in a while, they will back off some. The aluminum heads don't seem to have that problem once you tighten them a couple of times. The aluminum heads and headers seem to expand and contract at about the same rate. I used Fel-Pro header gaskets with the red atv and no leaks and they are staying tight, no thread lock just anti-seize.

Eliminator

eliminator
September 23rd, 2003, 10:00 PM
If you have the orignial cast iron heads you will need to tighten them every once in a while, they will back off some. The aluminum heads don't seem to have that problem once you tighten them a couple of times. The aluminum heads and headers seem to expand and contract at about the same rate. I used Fel-Pro header gaskets with the red atv and no leaks and they are staying tight, no thread lock just anti-seize.

Eliminator

jhaynie
September 23rd, 2003, 11:37 PM
Based on what I've had to do to this car so far, Keith may be onto something. Noone may have touched these bolts since the car was started.

John

jhaynie
September 23rd, 2003, 11:37 PM
Based on what I've had to do to this car so far, Keith may be onto something. Noone may have touched these bolts since the car was started.

John

pbrown
September 24th, 2003, 03:39 AM
quote:Originally posted by WBofTN

I cant remember the name of the header bolt I have, but
they have a cam locking devise that slips on after you
torque them down - Works great - no way for them to
back out.
WB


I think those are made by Stage8. They look like a great solution to old age old header bolt problem.

--Patrick

pbrown
September 24th, 2003, 03:39 AM
quote:Originally posted by WBofTN

I cant remember the name of the header bolt I have, but
they have a cam locking devise that slips on after you
torque them down - Works great - no way for them to
back out.
WB


I think those are made by Stage8. They look like a great solution to old age old header bolt problem.

--Patrick

Silk
September 24th, 2003, 04:28 AM
Most aluminum heads are HeliCoiled (I know the newer Edelbrocks are) and consequently don't need anti-seize. As far as header bolts, I'd use either stainless or black oxide hex heads. Same ones used for big block Chevys. They have small (3/8?) heads and can be tightned easily with a box wrench - no clearance issues. I go over them every couple of months and almost never find anything loose. I think Stage 8 makes the locking bolts, and I've hear they work well.

Gary
Unique FIA 351W

Silk
September 24th, 2003, 04:28 AM
Most aluminum heads are HeliCoiled (I know the newer Edelbrocks are) and consequently don't need anti-seize. As far as header bolts, I'd use either stainless or black oxide hex heads. Same ones used for big block Chevys. They have small (3/8?) heads and can be tightned easily with a box wrench - no clearance issues. I go over them every couple of months and almost never find anything loose. I think Stage 8 makes the locking bolts, and I've hear they work well.

Gary
Unique FIA 351W