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View Full Version : Sheared bolt ? on rear end..



casaleenie
October 13th, 2003, 09:52 AM
Please bear with me on this... I've been to the CWI (jag suspension site) and can't find the exact piece I'm talking about.
Was cleaning under the car and found a bolt head flopping loose connecting the rear control arm(?0 to the differential... It's wired to another bolt head that seems intact.. It looks like it's been sheared for a while as it's rusted. The bolts on the passenger side seem OK and the one to the rear of the sheared bolt seems ok also..

Does anyone have the slightest idea what I'm refering to?

thanks guys,
al

AL

casaleenie
October 13th, 2003, 11:47 AM
I went to the CWI Jag suspension site and the bolt in question is #1177 or #1209 It's the bolt forward that's broken...

AL

casaleenie
October 13th, 2003, 11:47 AM
I went to the CWI Jag suspension site and the bolt in question is #1177 or #1209 It's the bolt forward that's broken...

AL

Okiesnake
October 13th, 2003, 12:09 PM
I'm no Jag IRS expert but looking at http://www.geocities.com/~concourswest/page9.html
bolt # 1177 or 1209 I would highly recomend replacing it! If the other bolt were to fail, that whole lower pivot arm would buckle under and at speed you could quickly big in big doo doo!

Okiesnake
October 13th, 2003, 12:09 PM
I'm no Jag IRS expert but looking at http://www.geocities.com/~concourswest/page9.html
bolt # 1177 or 1209 I would highly recomend replacing it! If the other bolt were to fail, that whole lower pivot arm would buckle under and at speed you could quickly big in big doo doo!

Poorboy
October 13th, 2003, 01:48 PM
Al,
I would recommend that you replace the broken bolt befor driving the car anymore. It can be done without taking the rear end out. The lower arm will have to be taken off, to do that the 4 bolts that hold the center section will have be loosened. The broken bolt will just screw out some times, if it don't you may have to drill it out. To drill it out you will have to remove the axle,rotor,& brake caliper from that side(the caliper will come far enought with out taking the lines off). Also it is a special bolt,and there are 2 different lenghts.

Good Luck, Poorboy

Poorboy
October 13th, 2003, 01:48 PM
Al,
I would recommend that you replace the broken bolt befor driving the car anymore. It can be done without taking the rear end out. The lower arm will have to be taken off, to do that the 4 bolts that hold the center section will have be loosened. The broken bolt will just screw out some times, if it don't you may have to drill it out. To drill it out you will have to remove the axle,rotor,& brake caliper from that side(the caliper will come far enought with out taking the lines off). Also it is a special bolt,and there are 2 different lenghts.

Good Luck, Poorboy

rdorman
October 13th, 2003, 11:09 PM
Al, while you are under there try to determine why it broke. Was it tension or shear stress? Be sure to lock tight and safety wire.

DO THIS. Disconnect your shocks or better yet remove them. Run the suspension slowly through its entire range with a floor jack and see if it binds. I had an alignment guy try and set the toe useing the trailing arm! This could put a lot of stress on those bolts.

Oh, replace them all.

Rick

rdorman
October 13th, 2003, 11:09 PM
Al, while you are under there try to determine why it broke. Was it tension or shear stress? Be sure to lock tight and safety wire.

DO THIS. Disconnect your shocks or better yet remove them. Run the suspension slowly through its entire range with a floor jack and see if it binds. I had an alignment guy try and set the toe useing the trailing arm! This could put a lot of stress on those bolts.

Oh, replace them all.

Rick

casaleenie
October 14th, 2003, 12:46 AM
Poorboy, Okiesnake, Rick,
I'm going to take your advice and get it fixed, ASAP... I'm not capable of doing the work myself so it's off to a good mechanic...

Dorman,

I'm going to say it's a tension break and it looks like it's been that way for a long time... It must have happened after the powder coating but not a shear. The car has a little over 6K on it...
Did you get your package??

AL

casaleenie
October 14th, 2003, 12:46 AM
Poorboy, Okiesnake, Rick,
I'm going to take your advice and get it fixed, ASAP... I'm not capable of doing the work myself so it's off to a good mechanic...

Dorman,

I'm going to say it's a tension break and it looks like it's been that way for a long time... It must have happened after the powder coating but not a shear. The car has a little over 6K on it...
Did you get your package??

AL

rdorman
October 14th, 2003, 01:07 AM
I sure did. Thanks! I sent you a note that I received the package. It was up on the wall in minutes!
Rick

rdorman
October 14th, 2003, 01:07 AM
I sure did. Thanks! I sent you a note that I received the package. It was up on the wall in minutes!
Rick

casaleenie
October 14th, 2003, 02:10 AM
I also have a seal leak in the rear-end on the same side as the broken bolt...Am getting differential fluid onto the rotor and pads.Was going to deal with that during the winter months but looks like it will be sooner.. I'm beginning to wonder just how good the rebuild was on the components...

AL

casaleenie
October 14th, 2003, 02:10 AM
I also have a seal leak in the rear-end on the same side as the broken bolt...Am getting differential fluid onto the rotor and pads.Was going to deal with that during the winter months but looks like it will be sooner.. I'm beginning to wonder just how good the rebuild was on the components...

AL

Poorboy
October 14th, 2003, 02:55 AM
Al,
That part is not powder coated. It is a common bolt to break.
I can fix the broken bolt, and the leak for less than $250

Poorboy

Poorboy
October 14th, 2003, 02:55 AM
Al,
That part is not powder coated. It is a common bolt to break.
I can fix the broken bolt, and the leak for less than $250

Poorboy

casaleenie
October 14th, 2003, 03:04 AM
Poorboy,


I'm sure you're correct...I'll crawl back under and check it again...
Your cost of doing the work yourself is $250. in parts????

AL

You're correct... It's painted... The forward bolt that's broken looks like it has a tapered shoulder. Two very different bolts hold on that casting...



When can you be here from Alabama to fix it????:)

casaleenie
October 14th, 2003, 03:04 AM
Poorboy,


I'm sure you're correct...I'll crawl back under and check it again...
Your cost of doing the work yourself is $250. in parts????

AL

You're correct... It's painted... The forward bolt that's broken looks like it has a tapered shoulder. Two very different bolts hold on that casting...



When can you be here from Alabama to fix it????:)

Poorboy
October 14th, 2003, 08:58 AM
Al,
The $250 is parts and labor, but in my shop. I see you live by the lake, I was born in Cleveland.

Poorboy

Poorboy
October 14th, 2003, 08:58 AM
Al,
The $250 is parts and labor, but in my shop. I see you live by the lake, I was born in Cleveland.

Poorboy

eliminator
October 14th, 2003, 10:42 PM
Al,

You have got to remember these are "old" Jag rearends. Your leak is probably from the stub axle o ring seal...pretty common because there are no new o rings to replace the old ones and the original seals leaked in the jag rear-ends. So you have to clean everything up and use RTV sealant on top of the old o rings. As for the bolts, these are old also, it was not a shear break it was a stress break (fatigue) where it poped the head off. Who ever fixes your leak will have to replace the brake pads, as soon as rear end grease hits the pads they are "toast".

Eliminator

eliminator
October 14th, 2003, 10:42 PM
Al,

You have got to remember these are "old" Jag rearends. Your leak is probably from the stub axle o ring seal...pretty common because there are no new o rings to replace the old ones and the original seals leaked in the jag rear-ends. So you have to clean everything up and use RTV sealant on top of the old o rings. As for the bolts, these are old also, it was not a shear break it was a stress break (fatigue) where it poped the head off. Who ever fixes your leak will have to replace the brake pads, as soon as rear end grease hits the pads they are "toast".

Eliminator

casaleenie
October 14th, 2003, 10:57 PM
quote:Originally posted by eliminator

Al,

You have got to remember these are "old" Jag rearends. Your leak is probably from the stub axle o ring seal...pretty common because there are no new o rings to replace the old ones and the original seals leaked in the jag rear-ends. So you have to clean everything up and use RTV sealant on top of the old o rings. As for the bolts, these are old also, it was not a shear break it was a stress break (fatigue) where it poped the head off. Who ever fixes your leak will have to replace the brake pads, as soon as rear end grease hits the pads they are "toast".
Eliminator




I agree... After looking closer at the bolt I'm seeing exactly what happened... It was a tension break... The tapered shoulder on the broken bolt had me confused.
There are no replacement seals?
The lef rear pads are soaked but the fluid level in the rear end is very near full. The differential fluid ends up on the rotor edge and is thrown off onto the fiberglass at speed...

What is RTV sealant? Is it a silicon base?




AL

casaleenie
October 14th, 2003, 10:57 PM
quote:Originally posted by eliminator

Al,

You have got to remember these are "old" Jag rearends. Your leak is probably from the stub axle o ring seal...pretty common because there are no new o rings to replace the old ones and the original seals leaked in the jag rear-ends. So you have to clean everything up and use RTV sealant on top of the old o rings. As for the bolts, these are old also, it was not a shear break it was a stress break (fatigue) where it poped the head off. Who ever fixes your leak will have to replace the brake pads, as soon as rear end grease hits the pads they are "toast".
Eliminator




I agree... After looking closer at the bolt I'm seeing exactly what happened... It was a tension break... The tapered shoulder on the broken bolt had me confused.
There are no replacement seals?
The lef rear pads are soaked but the fluid level in the rear end is very near full. The differential fluid ends up on the rotor edge and is thrown off onto the fiberglass at speed...

What is RTV sealant? Is it a silicon base?




AL

casaleenie
October 15th, 2003, 12:03 AM
Do I need to have serial #'s off the Jag rearend to get the bolts??Would the local Jaguar dealer carry or have access to these old parts?? Is CWI a source? Just questions that you might know before I start the search....

thanks

AL

casaleenie
October 15th, 2003, 12:03 AM
Do I need to have serial #'s off the Jag rearend to get the bolts??Would the local Jaguar dealer carry or have access to these old parts?? Is CWI a source? Just questions that you might know before I start the search....

thanks

AL

rdorman
October 15th, 2003, 02:18 AM
"what is RTV"[:O]

If the o-rings are no longer available from Jag, I would think that one of the large o-ring companies could fit you up.

I use EBC Greenstuff pads bought from the Tire Rack on the rear. Really like them.

Rick

rdorman
October 15th, 2003, 02:18 AM
"what is RTV"[:O]

If the o-rings are no longer available from Jag, I would think that one of the large o-ring companies could fit you up.

I use EBC Greenstuff pads bought from the Tire Rack on the rear. Really like them.

Rick

eliminator
October 15th, 2003, 03:21 AM
RTV is a name for silicone sealant used in automotive and industrial applications, what you would buy at an Automobile Supply Parts store. The problem on the o rings is there were several sizes an applications and no one has done the homework for replacement o rings. I got some from a Jag dealer that were suppose to work and didn't.
Talked to Butch Capps whoe does the rear-end gears and bearings for Unique. He said Maurice can give you the spec's on the broken bolt, needs to know if it is the front or rear, (two different lengths). Torque value is 65# lbs, locktite them in place. He has tried with no success to find the orginal bolts.

Eliminator

eliminator
October 15th, 2003, 03:21 AM
RTV is a name for silicone sealant used in automotive and industrial applications, what you would buy at an Automobile Supply Parts store. The problem on the o rings is there were several sizes an applications and no one has done the homework for replacement o rings. I got some from a Jag dealer that were suppose to work and didn't.
Talked to Butch Capps whoe does the rear-end gears and bearings for Unique. He said Maurice can give you the spec's on the broken bolt, needs to know if it is the front or rear, (two different lengths). Torque value is 65# lbs, locktite them in place. He has tried with no success to find the orginal bolts.

Eliminator

Silk
October 15th, 2003, 04:27 AM
casaleenie,

Just caught up this this thread. I broke two of those bolts - second time had a Jag shop replace it - in a fraction of the time it took me to do it working with a mechanic friend. I don't know if you have it, but the Jag guy said it REALLY helpes to have a stainless steel plate fabricated to bolt into the rear suspension so that the plate covers the diff. The bolt holes are already there. Adds considerable rigidity to the rear end assembly. That was about 7,000 miles ago and no further problem. Cut a circle out of the center of the plate to access the differential. If it'd be useful, I'll try to post a pic.

Gary
Unique FIA 351W

Silk
October 15th, 2003, 04:27 AM
casaleenie,

Just caught up this this thread. I broke two of those bolts - second time had a Jag shop replace it - in a fraction of the time it took me to do it working with a mechanic friend. I don't know if you have it, but the Jag guy said it REALLY helpes to have a stainless steel plate fabricated to bolt into the rear suspension so that the plate covers the diff. The bolt holes are already there. Adds considerable rigidity to the rear end assembly. That was about 7,000 miles ago and no further problem. Cut a circle out of the center of the plate to access the differential. If it'd be useful, I'll try to post a pic.

Gary
Unique FIA 351W

rdorman
October 15th, 2003, 04:46 AM
RTV = Room Temperature Vulcanizing. If it makes you feel better Casaleenie, I looked it up! I use the stuff, just couldn't remember what it stood for!
Rick

rdorman
October 15th, 2003, 04:46 AM
RTV = Room Temperature Vulcanizing. If it makes you feel better Casaleenie, I looked it up! I use the stuff, just couldn't remember what it stood for!
Rick

casaleenie
October 15th, 2003, 04:59 AM
Silk,

Thanks for the input... I agree that a Jag guy is the one to fix this.
I'm definitely going with the plate. I'll get someone to fabricate the place and possibly make it available to others..
al
__________
Dorman,

Thanks for the mail...

Just throwing this out there... But are all the nuts and bolts metric in that Jag rearend???

AL

casaleenie
October 15th, 2003, 04:59 AM
Silk,

Thanks for the input... I agree that a Jag guy is the one to fix this.
I'm definitely going with the plate. I'll get someone to fabricate the place and possibly make it available to others..
al
__________
Dorman,

Thanks for the mail...

Just throwing this out there... But are all the nuts and bolts metric in that Jag rearend???

AL

casaleenie
October 15th, 2003, 05:02 AM
Silk,

On the ClubCobra forum, someone posted a picture of a fabricated plate that they recommended to use.. Used a piece of cardboard to make a template. He listed the guage metal use.. If you could post a picture or e-mail me that would be great..___
_________ schafer.a@cox.net

Rick,

Are you going the cover plate route on your suspension?




AL

casaleenie
October 15th, 2003, 05:02 AM
Silk,

On the ClubCobra forum, someone posted a picture of a fabricated plate that they recommended to use.. Used a piece of cardboard to make a template. He listed the guage metal use.. If you could post a picture or e-mail me that would be great..___
_________ schafer.a@cox.net

Rick,

Are you going the cover plate route on your suspension?




AL

eliminator
October 15th, 2003, 05:14 AM
These plates can be made of steel, aluminum, or stainless. I have one on mine now made of aluminum. I didn't cut out a hole, I just take out the bolts and drop the plate to access the rear end. The plate adds a rigid support the the bottom section of the rear end. Most of them I have seen are made out of 1/4" thick material.

Eliminator

eliminator
October 15th, 2003, 05:14 AM
These plates can be made of steel, aluminum, or stainless. I have one on mine now made of aluminum. I didn't cut out a hole, I just take out the bolts and drop the plate to access the rear end. The plate adds a rigid support the the bottom section of the rear end. Most of them I have seen are made out of 1/4" thick material.

Eliminator

casaleenie
October 15th, 2003, 05:22 AM
I'm going to start the process tomorrow in getting this fixed..
Does the aluminum offer the strength of the other options?
Would you use the same thickness (aluminium 1/4) if using steel or stainless?
It would probably be necessary to drill the holes in the plate larger to allow for positioning due to the shims between the differential and the lower control arm casting... and I'm assuming metric?

AL

casaleenie
October 15th, 2003, 05:22 AM
I'm going to start the process tomorrow in getting this fixed..
Does the aluminum offer the strength of the other options?
Would you use the same thickness (aluminium 1/4) if using steel or stainless?
It would probably be necessary to drill the holes in the plate larger to allow for positioning due to the shims between the differential and the lower control arm casting... and I'm assuming metric?

AL

rdorman
October 15th, 2003, 05:24 AM
Yep I am going to make one. Hard to tell when though! Shall I make two?
Rick

rdorman
October 15th, 2003, 05:24 AM
Yep I am going to make one. Hard to tell when though! Shall I make two?
Rick

eliminator
October 15th, 2003, 05:34 AM
This is the picture off of Club Cobra. Dont drill the holes larger, use cardboard to make a template, screw studs into the holes to transfer them to the cardboard, they need to be exact, no shifting.http://www.uniquecobra.com/uploaded/eliminator/16981ampunder-med.jpg

Eliminator

eliminator
October 15th, 2003, 05:34 AM
This is the picture off of Club Cobra. Dont drill the holes larger, use cardboard to make a template, screw studs into the holes to transfer them to the cardboard, they need to be exact, no shifting.http://www.uniquecobra.com/uploaded/eliminator/16981ampunder-med.jpg

Eliminator

rdorman
October 15th, 2003, 05:50 AM
That is such a sweet setup! My method for making stuff like this is to put machinist blue on the part with the bolt holes and then carefully place the part to be drilled in place. The blue comes off and you know where to drill the hole. Although I have used cardboard or wood as well. My caliper adaptors I made of wood until I was happy with the fit. Of course if is a really critical distance I measure but that justs takes so bloody long!

I would think the cheapest way would be to have a welding shop cut a peice of plate steel to the size you want, put a hole in it and then drill the holes yourself.

Rick

rdorman
October 15th, 2003, 05:50 AM
That is such a sweet setup! My method for making stuff like this is to put machinist blue on the part with the bolt holes and then carefully place the part to be drilled in place. The blue comes off and you know where to drill the hole. Although I have used cardboard or wood as well. My caliper adaptors I made of wood until I was happy with the fit. Of course if is a really critical distance I measure but that justs takes so bloody long!

I would think the cheapest way would be to have a welding shop cut a peice of plate steel to the size you want, put a hole in it and then drill the holes yourself.

Rick

WBofTN
October 15th, 2003, 06:14 AM
Rick:
I'll take one.
WB

'93 Unique 427/351W/4sp

WBofTN
October 15th, 2003, 06:14 AM
Rick:
I'll take one.
WB

'93 Unique 427/351W/4sp

rdorman
October 15th, 2003, 06:28 AM
Looks like I am going to just have to go into business. Adaptor kits to fit wilwoods to MG front, caged needle bearing steering column conversion kit, roll center/bump steer/camber gain kits, brake design and upgrades, adjustable roll bars and now....... plates for the diff.!

Naaaaaaaaa;)

But when I get around to it, I will put a post out and maybe we can have a bunch of blanks cut up for a discount. But I doubt the savings would be that much.

Rick

rdorman
October 15th, 2003, 06:28 AM
Looks like I am going to just have to go into business. Adaptor kits to fit wilwoods to MG front, caged needle bearing steering column conversion kit, roll center/bump steer/camber gain kits, brake design and upgrades, adjustable roll bars and now....... plates for the diff.!

Naaaaaaaaa;)

But when I get around to it, I will put a post out and maybe we can have a bunch of blanks cut up for a discount. But I doubt the savings would be that much.

Rick

ToyCollector
October 15th, 2003, 11:46 AM
AL,

Can you post a link to this JAG rearend site?

ToyCollector
October 15th, 2003, 11:46 AM
AL,

Can you post a link to this JAG rearend site?

casaleenie
October 16th, 2003, 12:52 AM
If you're referring to the picture posted I'll try and dig it up.. It's on the ClubCobra Forum...
The Jag webpage is concourswest www.geocities.com
I'm a putz when it comes to a computer but the concourswest should come up on Google...CWI

AL

casaleenie
October 16th, 2003, 12:52 AM
If you're referring to the picture posted I'll try and dig it up.. It's on the ClubCobra Forum...
The Jag webpage is concourswest www.geocities.com
I'm a putz when it comes to a computer but the concourswest should come up on Google...CWI

AL

Poorboy
October 16th, 2003, 03:47 AM
ATTENTION ALL !!!!
Unique is in the process of having the reinforcement plates made!!! It will be about 2 weeks before they will be avilable. I don't know what the cost will be yet.

Poorboy

Poorboy
October 16th, 2003, 03:47 AM
ATTENTION ALL !!!!
Unique is in the process of having the reinforcement plates made!!! It will be about 2 weeks before they will be avilable. I don't know what the cost will be yet.

Poorboy

casaleenie
October 16th, 2003, 04:03 AM
Poorboy,,

That's great.... Nice piece of insurance...

AL

casaleenie
October 16th, 2003, 04:03 AM
Poorboy,,

That's great.... Nice piece of insurance...

AL

406snake
October 16th, 2003, 06:09 PM
Guys,
Are these mods for older Uniques or for all?

Thanks in advance,
Charlie

406snake
October 16th, 2003, 06:09 PM
Guys,
Are these mods for older Uniques or for all?

Thanks in advance,
Charlie

eliminator
October 16th, 2003, 09:18 PM
The plate will work on all Unique Cars since it has to do with a JAG rear-end.

Eliminator

eliminator
October 16th, 2003, 09:18 PM
The plate will work on all Unique Cars since it has to do with a JAG rear-end.

Eliminator

weaver
October 17th, 2003, 01:54 AM
We are in the process of having plates laser cut and will offer them as an option as soon as possible, they will be powder coated black and sold with bolts. I will post when we have them available.

Alan

weaver
October 17th, 2003, 01:54 AM
We are in the process of having plates laser cut and will offer them as an option as soon as possible, they will be powder coated black and sold with bolts. I will post when we have them available.

Alan

casaleenie
October 17th, 2003, 03:33 AM
thanks Alan,

Just got back from Jaguar and they may be able to do the work for me..
I'm waiting for a call from them...
Sounds like the problem I'm having is nothing too out of the ordinary..
Any idea on the price of the upgrade?

al on Ohio

AL

casaleenie
October 17th, 2003, 03:33 AM
thanks Alan,

Just got back from Jaguar and they may be able to do the work for me..
I'm waiting for a call from them...
Sounds like the problem I'm having is nothing too out of the ordinary..
Any idea on the price of the upgrade?

al on Ohio

AL

Brent
October 17th, 2003, 09:33 AM
I made a support plate out of 1/4 T-6 . I think this is a good idea for everyone. We all like big horsepower :D:D:D

http://www.uniquecobra.com/uploaded/Brent/DSCN0389.JPG

Eliminator yours will go in the mail on monday.

Brent

Brent
October 17th, 2003, 09:33 AM
I made a support plate out of 1/4 T-6 . I think this is a good idea for everyone. We all like big horsepower :D:D:D

http://www.uniquecobra.com/uploaded/Brent/DSCN0389.JPG

Eliminator yours will go in the mail on monday.

Brent

casaleenie
October 19th, 2003, 12:12 AM
Alan at Unique,

Any chance of getting one of the first support plates shipped quickly.
The tech at Jaguar said he'd install if after the repairs...
No big deal but if possible please let me know..
Took the car over yesterday(Sat.) and they were thrilled to be working on it.. go figure.. The service dept. was impressed with the quality of the car...



AL

casaleenie
October 19th, 2003, 12:12 AM
Alan at Unique,

Any chance of getting one of the first support plates shipped quickly.
The tech at Jaguar said he'd install if after the repairs...
No big deal but if possible please let me know..
Took the car over yesterday(Sat.) and they were thrilled to be working on it.. go figure.. The service dept. was impressed with the quality of the car...



AL

JerryBP
October 20th, 2003, 02:49 AM
I use-to have a Jag XJS V12 and the rear-end unit was bolted to a heavy cradle (at those points) that held the whole rear suspension, then it was rubber mounted to the subframe.

Work in Progress Unique 427-9429 400+hp 351C Tremec 3550 5spd by Bruce, Greg & Jerry Porter

JerryBP
October 20th, 2003, 02:49 AM
I use-to have a Jag XJS V12 and the rear-end unit was bolted to a heavy cradle (at those points) that held the whole rear suspension, then it was rubber mounted to the subframe.

Work in Progress Unique 427-9429 400+hp 351C Tremec 3550 5spd by Bruce, Greg & Jerry Porter

weaver
October 20th, 2003, 02:55 AM
Al, our pattern is at the laser company or we could make one up for you, we should get some parts back soon and I will send you one asap.

Alan

weaver
October 20th, 2003, 02:55 AM
Al, our pattern is at the laser company or we could make one up for you, we should get some parts back soon and I will send you one asap.

Alan

casaleenie
October 20th, 2003, 06:08 AM
Alan,

Thanks a million... I'm sure it can wait until you start getting the parts back...

al in ohio

AL

casaleenie
October 20th, 2003, 06:08 AM
Alan,

Thanks a million... I'm sure it can wait until you start getting the parts back...

al in ohio

AL

spd4me
October 26th, 2003, 11:52 PM
I rebuilt the short shaft on a Jag rear end once. What a pain. You have to take every thing off. Mine was leaking oil out of the shaft end and was slinging onto rotor and brake pads. When I had it apart, I replaced the bearings and seals. Used seal #710313 by National. Check with a bearing distributor like Motion Industries in Birmingham, AL. The other thing I noticed was the rear end oil could leak out through the bearings and past the nut that holds it all together. Before I put the nut back on, I put a bunch or RTV red sealer inside around the threaded end, installed the flat washer, then the nut, then wiped off what squeezed out.

spd4me
October 26th, 2003, 11:52 PM
I rebuilt the short shaft on a Jag rear end once. What a pain. You have to take every thing off. Mine was leaking oil out of the shaft end and was slinging onto rotor and brake pads. When I had it apart, I replaced the bearings and seals. Used seal #710313 by National. Check with a bearing distributor like Motion Industries in Birmingham, AL. The other thing I noticed was the rear end oil could leak out through the bearings and past the nut that holds it all together. Before I put the nut back on, I put a bunch or RTV red sealer inside around the threaded end, installed the flat washer, then the nut, then wiped off what squeezed out.

casaleenie
October 27th, 2003, 02:08 AM
Spd4me,

Unfortunatly I'm not anywhere near capable of doing the work you did on the rear end... Jaguar gave me a ballpark figure on the bolt and seal leak (if that's what it is) $2,500. I told him to just do the bolt.

I can order a rebuilt one from Unique for about the same money...

I need to do some more research on this before I spend the money.

the leak is exactly as you described...

Jaguar has had the car for over a week already. We're expecting some good weather from the south towards the end of the week (70's) and I'd like to have it on it's way home by then... We should have had snow about now... thank god for global warming...
regards,
al

AL

casaleenie
October 27th, 2003, 02:08 AM
Spd4me,

Unfortunatly I'm not anywhere near capable of doing the work you did on the rear end... Jaguar gave me a ballpark figure on the bolt and seal leak (if that's what it is) $2,500. I told him to just do the bolt.

I can order a rebuilt one from Unique for about the same money...

I need to do some more research on this before I spend the money.

the leak is exactly as you described...

Jaguar has had the car for over a week already. We're expecting some good weather from the south towards the end of the week (70's) and I'd like to have it on it's way home by then... We should have had snow about now... thank god for global warming...
regards,
al

AL

rdorman
October 27th, 2003, 02:36 AM
$2,500!!!!!!!!!!! Rediculious

rdorman
October 27th, 2003, 02:36 AM
$2,500!!!!!!!!!!! Rediculious

casaleenie
October 27th, 2003, 02:46 AM
Swear to God...

Someone in Alabama gave me a price of $250. to do the same job...
Hell, I could buy a trailer and drive down to Alabama and have him work on it... Hell, I could take it back to Weavers and have them work on it. and I'd still be money ahead and own the trailer to boot.

[8]

AL

casaleenie
October 27th, 2003, 02:46 AM
Swear to God...

Someone in Alabama gave me a price of $250. to do the same job...
Hell, I could buy a trailer and drive down to Alabama and have him work on it... Hell, I could take it back to Weavers and have them work on it. and I'd still be money ahead and own the trailer to boot.

[8]

AL

eliminator
October 27th, 2003, 04:21 AM
This is a easy 4 hour job to fix the stub axle seal that is causing your leak. It's all labor and 3.50 for some RTV sealant. Poorboy in AL is capable of doing this for 250.00 and that's a fair price. This is where a trailer comes in handy. There may be other guy's that are close to you that can do the job. Maybe Alan can recommend someone closer.

Eliminator

eliminator
October 27th, 2003, 04:21 AM
This is a easy 4 hour job to fix the stub axle seal that is causing your leak. It's all labor and 3.50 for some RTV sealant. Poorboy in AL is capable of doing this for 250.00 and that's a fair price. This is where a trailer comes in handy. There may be other guy's that are close to you that can do the job. Maybe Alan can recommend someone closer.

Eliminator

Poorboy
October 27th, 2003, 10:42 AM
Al,
I'm the one that gave you the price to fix your rear end. If they want $2500 to do the whole job they will probly charge you $2000 to do just the bolt![:O] I would RUN not walk to get the car back befor they start on it. As far as they have take the rear suspension apart to fix the bolt it should not take more than another hour to repair the seal.:(

Poorboy

Poorboy
October 27th, 2003, 10:42 AM
Al,
I'm the one that gave you the price to fix your rear end. If they want $2500 to do the whole job they will probly charge you $2000 to do just the bolt![:O] I would RUN not walk to get the car back befor they start on it. As far as they have take the rear suspension apart to fix the bolt it should not take more than another hour to repair the seal.:(

Poorboy

casaleenie
October 27th, 2003, 11:50 AM
Poorboy,


I had the mechanic give me the worst case scenerio on the repair of the bolt... I asked him to give me a ballpark on the bolt... I pressed him to come up with a figure... Won't go over a thousand as an absurd figure... Hopefully much less....

No way I can give him the money for the leak... I may be seeing you down in Alabama.
I truly appreciate all your input on this.. I know I'm paying through the nose on this but I have to bite the bullet on this particular repair...

AL

casaleenie
October 27th, 2003, 11:50 AM
Poorboy,


I had the mechanic give me the worst case scenerio on the repair of the bolt... I asked him to give me a ballpark on the bolt... I pressed him to come up with a figure... Won't go over a thousand as an absurd figure... Hopefully much less....

No way I can give him the money for the leak... I may be seeing you down in Alabama.
I truly appreciate all your input on this.. I know I'm paying through the nose on this but I have to bite the bullet on this particular repair...

AL

casaleenie
October 27th, 2003, 11:54 AM
http://www.uniquecobra.com/uploaded/casaleenie/Cobra on life.jpg

Let's see if this works...trying to upload a picture

AL

casaleenie
October 27th, 2003, 11:54 AM
http://www.uniquecobra.com/uploaded/casaleenie/Cobra on life.jpg

Let's see if this works...trying to upload a picture

AL

casaleenie
October 27th, 2003, 11:55 AM
http://www.uniquecobra.com/uploaded/casaleenie/Cobra.jpg

Let's try another one...

AL

casaleenie
October 27th, 2003, 11:55 AM
http://www.uniquecobra.com/uploaded/casaleenie/Cobra.jpg

Let's try another one...

AL

pseim
October 27th, 2003, 10:01 PM
Al,
Nice raised platform for the car - did you build that?

Paul
4279425

pseim
October 27th, 2003, 10:01 PM
Al,
Nice raised platform for the car - did you build that?

Paul
4279425

rdorman
October 27th, 2003, 10:16 PM
Do NOT spend that kind of money on this! It is a $300 or less job plus parts. For $2500 you can replace every piece that gets removed with a new one. Every control arm, half shafts, rotors, calipers, everything! OR For $2500 you could have some one COMPLETELY R&R the entire rear end, replace every seal and bearing, magnaflux every critical piece, shot peen them all, rebuild every bit of hydraulics, put in new high performance pads, high strength joints, put in new high performance bushings, do a four wheel alignment, put a nice paint job on the whole thing and buy you lunch and a couple of beers!

Getting the idea???

There used to be a good Jag shop called Gran Turismo in Cleveland. Look them up. Also you can try the Jaguar Association of Central Ohio, Jaguar Club of Ohio, etc for a good referal. This work is easily within reach of any mechanic (you might be surprised at what YOU are capable of). Buy a good book and get on out there!

Rick

rdorman
October 27th, 2003, 10:16 PM
Do NOT spend that kind of money on this! It is a $300 or less job plus parts. For $2500 you can replace every piece that gets removed with a new one. Every control arm, half shafts, rotors, calipers, everything! OR For $2500 you could have some one COMPLETELY R&R the entire rear end, replace every seal and bearing, magnaflux every critical piece, shot peen them all, rebuild every bit of hydraulics, put in new high performance pads, high strength joints, put in new high performance bushings, do a four wheel alignment, put a nice paint job on the whole thing and buy you lunch and a couple of beers!

Getting the idea???

There used to be a good Jag shop called Gran Turismo in Cleveland. Look them up. Also you can try the Jaguar Association of Central Ohio, Jaguar Club of Ohio, etc for a good referal. This work is easily within reach of any mechanic (you might be surprised at what YOU are capable of). Buy a good book and get on out there!

Rick

casaleenie
November 1st, 2003, 12:06 AM
Rick,

I'm beginning to get the idea....Anything after the bolt repair I'll shop a lot better... Just freaked out when I found the broken bolt...I was warned so many times of catasrophic failer in Jag suspensions that it made me nuts...
I'll get some stuff lined up for repairs over the winter...

and Rick, believe me, there are not surprises as to what I can do...
It's one of those situations where if the contractor gives me a price to do a job, say $5,000. if I help him it's $7,000.

I really appreciate all the help you guys have give me... I truly do..
AL:)

AL

casaleenie
November 1st, 2003, 12:06 AM
Rick,

I'm beginning to get the idea....Anything after the bolt repair I'll shop a lot better... Just freaked out when I found the broken bolt...I was warned so many times of catasrophic failer in Jag suspensions that it made me nuts...
I'll get some stuff lined up for repairs over the winter...

and Rick, believe me, there are not surprises as to what I can do...
It's one of those situations where if the contractor gives me a price to do a job, say $5,000. if I help him it's $7,000.

I really appreciate all the help you guys have give me... I truly do..
AL:)

AL

casaleenie
November 1st, 2003, 12:08 AM
Paul,

That's called a Kwiklift from a mfg. out of Oklahoma...
Powder coated with a few options is about $1,200. I don't do mechanical but it sure makes it nice for oil changes and hanging around under the car smiling...
al

AL

casaleenie
November 1st, 2003, 12:08 AM
Paul,

That's called a Kwiklift from a mfg. out of Oklahoma...
Powder coated with a few options is about $1,200. I don't do mechanical but it sure makes it nice for oil changes and hanging around under the car smiling...
al

AL

Brent
November 1st, 2003, 12:13 AM
Beautiful car!!

Brent
November 1st, 2003, 12:13 AM
Beautiful car!!

casaleenie
November 1st, 2003, 04:01 AM
Thanks for the compliments and info on the car...

AL

casaleenie
November 1st, 2003, 04:01 AM
Thanks for the compliments and info on the car...

AL

Poorboy
November 1st, 2003, 10:19 AM
Al,
I have pictures of your car while it was being built by Unique. If you want them let know and I'll e-mail them to you. Unique has the plates for the rear end, they will go to the powder coaters Monday.

Poorboy

Poorboy
November 1st, 2003, 10:19 AM
Al,
I have pictures of your car while it was being built by Unique. If you want them let know and I'll e-mail them to you. Unique has the plates for the rear end, they will go to the powder coaters Monday.

Poorboy

casaleenie
November 1st, 2003, 11:43 AM
Poorboy,

This car was originally build for Fred Savill in Brandon, Fla...
FIA Fred...Don't know exactly why Fred parted with the car but I was thrilled to get it...
If you have some pictures of the build I'd be thrilled to have them..
Let me know what I owe you and I'll get it out to you...

Do you run a shop down in Alabama? You sure seem to know an awful lot about these cars.

regards,

al



AL

casaleenie
November 1st, 2003, 11:43 AM
Poorboy,

This car was originally build for Fred Savill in Brandon, Fla...
FIA Fred...Don't know exactly why Fred parted with the car but I was thrilled to get it...
If you have some pictures of the build I'd be thrilled to have them..
Let me know what I owe you and I'll get it out to you...

Do you run a shop down in Alabama? You sure seem to know an awful lot about these cars.

regards,

al



AL

casaleenie
November 4th, 2003, 09:05 AM
Update on the repair on the broken bolt..

Jaguar called today and said the car should be ready by Friday.
Also told me that the rearend leak was worse than he thought and wanted to know if I wanted the seals replace as long as he had the shaft and control arm down.. Said it would only be an additional 2 to 3 hours labor if I had it done at this time...That comes to about $200 for the seals (parts are an unknown amount at this time). Sounds a lot better than the $2,500. originally quoted. (a ballpark figure to be fair) Guess he heard that I was buying a trailer and taking it to Poorboy down in Alabama...:)
It's 80 degrees and sunny out today... Friday is supposed to be a high of 42 degrees... I just can't win... Got to get it home before they start throwing salt all over the roads...

AL

casaleenie
November 4th, 2003, 09:05 AM
Update on the repair on the broken bolt..

Jaguar called today and said the car should be ready by Friday.
Also told me that the rearend leak was worse than he thought and wanted to know if I wanted the seals replace as long as he had the shaft and control arm down.. Said it would only be an additional 2 to 3 hours labor if I had it done at this time...That comes to about $200 for the seals (parts are an unknown amount at this time). Sounds a lot better than the $2,500. originally quoted. (a ballpark figure to be fair) Guess he heard that I was buying a trailer and taking it to Poorboy down in Alabama...:)
It's 80 degrees and sunny out today... Friday is supposed to be a high of 42 degrees... I just can't win... Got to get it home before they start throwing salt all over the roads...

AL