like to get engine running.

[glenn]

Hello everyone,
Looking to get the engine running while the car is at the paint shop.Have southern automotive 406 FE. Engine and trans already in chassis.Would like to temporarily connect radiator, remote oil filter, fuel lines battery and gauges. any thoughts on this or procedures would be helpful? Also having problem connecting fuel line to fuel pump? Any advice here would be appreciated.
Thanks for your help.
Glenn,

[eliminator]

Gary,

Look at my Gallery on Club Cobra under Eliminator, has some pictures of my set up. Several of us got together and made a temporary dash with the basics, oil pressure guage, water temperature guage, ignition switch w/light, fan switch. What I did was use a old Unique Radiator with a electric fan attached and wired it to my dash. I would not use the remote oil filter, get the original type oil filter mount, they are easy to find. Much cleaner than getting your lines and oil cooler all oiled up. Get you a remote started swith, push button and your ready.
As for the fuel lines, I would cut the fittings off with a tubing cutter and put an Aeroquip Fitting on each end that converts the hard line to an AN fitting, then make up my fuel lines from AN size 6 braided stainless steel lines. Most speed shops can help in this area and all of the lines and fittings are available from JEG's or Summit. Very easy to do. Just sit your fuel tank on the 2 rear end bars, put some cardboard down first and get a cork stopper to plug up the fuel inlet on the tank (available at Home Depot or Lowe's. Ran a good tank or so of fuel through my engine last winter, You can check for oil, water, and fuel leaks and adjust the valves on the engine. Just use you battery and attach a charger to it and re-charge the battery after every engine run. I think it is a great thing to do. You can use your aluminum radiator and make up all your hoses (rubber and metal) then put a big fan on the floor in front of the radiator.

Eliminator

[eliminator]

Gary,

Look at my Gallery on Club Cobra under Eliminator, has some pictures of my set up. Several of us got together and made a temporary dash with the basics, oil pressure guage, water temperature guage, ignition switch w/light, fan switch. What I did was use a old Unique Radiator with a electric fan attached and wired it to my dash. I would not use the remote oil filter, get the original type oil filter mount, they are easy to find. Much cleaner than getting your lines and oil cooler all oiled up. Get you a remote started swith, push button and your ready.
As for the fuel lines, I would cut the fittings off with a tubing cutter and put an Aeroquip Fitting on each end that converts the hard line to an AN fitting, then make up my fuel lines from AN size 6 braided stainless steel lines. Most speed shops can help in this area and all of the lines and fittings are available from JEG's or Summit. Very easy to do. Just sit your fuel tank on the 2 rear end bars, put some cardboard down first and get a cork stopper to plug up the fuel inlet on the tank (available at Home Depot or Lowe's. Ran a good tank or so of fuel through my engine last winter, You can check for oil, water, and fuel leaks and adjust the valves on the engine. Just use you battery and attach a charger to it and re-charge the battery after every engine run. I think it is a great thing to do. You can use your aluminum radiator and make up all your hoses (rubber and metal) then put a big fan on the floor in front of the radiator.

Eliminator

[Brent]

Just make sure you prime the oil pump and fill the filter. Remove the dist. and use a drill with a 1/4" socket in reverse until you get good steady pressure.

Brent

[Brent]

Just make sure you prime the oil pump and fill the filter. Remove the dist. and use a drill with a 1/4" socket in reverse until you get good steady pressure.

Brent

[eliminator]

Or crank it with an extension 1/4" drive by hand, it will make you appreciate why you shouldn't rev up an engine until the oil gets warm. Feels like an ole time Ice Cream Maker that you crank by hand.

Eliminator

[eliminator]

Or crank it with an extension 1/4" drive by hand, it will make you appreciate why you shouldn't rev up an engine until the oil gets warm. Feels like an ole time Ice Cream Maker that you crank by hand.

Eliminator

[Brent]

Glenn,
Did S.A. do the initial run on the engine and seat the camshaft etc.? IF you have done this before ignore this. If not make sure you break in the motor correctly.
**When motor starts idle up to 2000 rpm
*Check for leaks
Make sure all 8 pipes are hot
*set initial timing
*monitor oil pressure constantly
*allow motor to reach operating temp.
*shut motor off
*Repeat process
*keep motor at 2000 rpm during entire break in, everyone is tempted to idle the motor down or rev it.This is the most important 20 minutes of your motors life.
*After second run while the motor is still warm I remove the valve covers and check the valves for any major changes,I remove the rocker assy. and re-torque the cylinder heads then re-install the rocker assy.This is a pain but I have never blown a head gasket, even in our BIG motor.Also check the header bolts, intake bolts,everything on the front of the motor.Re-torque everything.
*Drain oil and inspect filter.If you do not have a filter cutter borrow one. Cut the filter open and give it a good look.If everything is OK then fill with new oil and install a new filter.(Good quality filter)
Start again and set idle, initial timing, advance, etc.

If you have done this before I am sorry to bore you[?]:(:D

Brent

[Brent]

Glenn,
Did S.A. do the initial run on the engine and seat the camshaft etc.? IF you have done this before ignore this. If not make sure you break in the motor correctly.
**When motor starts idle up to 2000 rpm
*Check for leaks
Make sure all 8 pipes are hot
*set initial timing
*monitor oil pressure constantly
*allow motor to reach operating temp.
*shut motor off
*Repeat process
*keep motor at 2000 rpm during entire break in, everyone is tempted to idle the motor down or rev it.This is the most important 20 minutes of your motors life.
*After second run while the motor is still warm I remove the valve covers and check the valves for any major changes,I remove the rocker assy. and re-torque the cylinder heads then re-install the rocker assy.This is a pain but I have never blown a head gasket, even in our BIG motor.Also check the header bolts, intake bolts,everything on the front of the motor.Re-torque everything.
*Drain oil and inspect filter.If you do not have a filter cutter borrow one. Cut the filter open and give it a good look.If everything is OK then fill with new oil and install a new filter.(Good quality filter)
Start again and set idle, initial timing, advance, etc.

If you have done this before I am sorry to bore you[?]:(:D

Brent