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dmiller
December 24th, 2003, 02:03 AM
what does one use to connect to the brake light sensor in the hydraulic line. there are two "pins" that i need to attach the wiring to. what kind of connectors are those?

brfutbrian
December 24th, 2003, 08:10 AM
i used the female end of a round pin style, single wire, crimp on quick disconnect. just went to the hardware store. you shouldnt have any trouble finding them. it was a tight fit on the switch,but it snapped on and locked. later, brian.

GeorgiaSnake
December 24th, 2003, 08:39 AM
Did the same here.

Randy

Unique 289 FIA
Southern Automotive 396
Team III 16's
Brilliant Silver

pgermond
December 24th, 2003, 09:43 AM
Button connectors (female end). Sorry, I don't know the size, but they should at the auto parts store (NAPA).

Phil

427 Roadster, #4279436
Southern Automotive FE
3:31 and Toploader

Roseville (N.Cal)

dmiller
December 24th, 2003, 12:53 PM
thank you,

have a nice holiday,

santa is coming

doug

Tony Radford
December 24th, 2003, 09:02 PM
You can also buy a sensor that has two screws in the top for standard crimp lugs. I had some problems with the sensor that came with the kit, so I upgraded to a better sensor (one that is supposedly more sensitive and robust) and it has screws as the fastening technique.

427SC, Torch Red / white stripes
427 Windsor Stroker from Southern Automotive
Delicious example of Beauty + Power.

eliminator
December 25th, 2003, 02:42 AM
The round ones are called Bullet Connectors I think, used the round female connectors and they worked fine.

Eliminator

Brent
December 25th, 2003, 07:47 AM
I used the roung bullet conn. I have heard the original brake light switch is a problem. When mine goes out I will get a better threaded unit like Tony did.

Brent

eliminator
December 25th, 2003, 11:07 PM
I too will change to a more "robust" sensor;). Takes about 75% brakes before mine makes contact[V].

Eliminator

JerryBP
December 26th, 2003, 03:09 AM
I am planning to make a bracket and put a microswitch aginst the brake peddle under the dash and do away with the pressure switch.

Work in Progress, Unique 427-9429 400+hp 351C Tremec 3550 5spd Coal Black
by Bruce, Greg & Jerry Porter Caldwell, Ohio

Tony Radford
December 26th, 2003, 07:31 AM
Jerry, are you sure you want to go to that trouble? I've had no problems with the new sensor and it doesn't take much pressure to activate the lights. The switch only costs $12.

427SC, Torch Red / white stripes
427 Windsor Stroker from Southern Automotive
Delicious example of Beauty + Power.

Jim Harding
December 27th, 2003, 09:04 PM
A manually actuated switch is really not that much trouble. I went to Home Depot and bought a replacement refrigerator light switch. Made a small bracket to locate the switch so it pressed against the brake pedal arm. I made the move because I couldn't find a suitable pressure switch to replace the one my older car, i.e. threads didn't match the 'T' fitting. So after getting tired of finding one, just made the switch.... pun intended.

Jim Harding
La Plata, Maryland

http://www.capitalareacobraclub.com/albums/album26/1aLeftside.thumb.jpg

rdorman
December 28th, 2003, 10:18 PM
test

rdorman
December 28th, 2003, 10:19 PM
What is the part number and manufacturer of the new hydraulic brake light switch you installed? I to have the problem of the brake lights not coming on until I stand on the brakes.
Thanks
Rick

Mike Geddes
December 28th, 2003, 10:59 PM
I believe that part of the problem with the Unique supplied brake sensor switch may be in the position it is mounted in.
When my car was supplied in 1991 the sensor was screwed in at the TOP of the 4 way hydrulic splitter block for the front brakes.
There is a small 'void' in the screwed fitting on the switch.
In that position, no ammount of brake bleeding will get out that small pocket of air that is left in the switch base.
That is why some of you may find that heavy pedal pressure is required
to get the lights on.( the air will eventually compress enough to activate the switch.)
Due to the fact that the void in the fitting is so small, I found that simple capillary action held enough fluid in the fitting so that even when turned upside down ( to screw the sucker into the 4 way
block )the fluid stayed in place....My brake lights work with very little effort on the pedal.
Mike

Mike Geddes

JerryBP
December 28th, 2003, 11:08 PM
Tony, I changed so many of those pressure switches back in the 50's & 60's (before the auto makers stoped using them) that I do not want one in our car.

Work in Progress, Unique 427-9429 400+hp 351C Tremec 3550 5spd Coal Black
by Bruce, Greg & Jerry Porter Caldwell, Ohio