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pgermond
January 3rd, 2004, 02:26 AM
This will probably cause a few chuckles... the cars in the driveway after it's first official outing, and guess what!

I can't get the line-lock e-brake to release! Push the pedal, which is "suppose" to release the the valve. Nope. Any ideas?

Phil

427 Roadster, #4279436
Southern Automotive FE
3:31 and Toploader

Roseville (N.Cal)

clayfoushee
January 3rd, 2004, 02:31 AM
Phil,

Mine just doesn't work at all....never has....fortunately it's in the release position. I talked to the Weavers about it a long time ago, and they said a lot of people have problems with them. I've just given up, and don't park on hills, while carrying a set of portable, fold-up chocks.

Unfortunately, I don't know how to tell you to get it to release. BUT, welcome to the fraternity (not just Uniques)! You'll notice something about every other time you drive it. I think this is true with Shelby's and Kirkhams too....just the nature of the beast.

Clay

Unique 9299, 427FE side oiler, top-loader (close), 3.31 rear

Annapolis, MD

clayfoushee
January 3rd, 2004, 02:38 AM
BTW, I meant to mention this when we were talking about brakes a while back, but, if you're using the pads on your Wilwoods supplied by Unique, it's important to use the proper technique for seating those new front pads the first time. Maurice told me to find a deserted, straight road, make sure the car is stopping relative straight, and then do an almost full panic stop from about 60mph (JUST SHORT OF LOCKING THE BRAKES!). Then drive with minimal braking and let them cool. They need that heat cycling to seat properly.

Maurice said unless you do this early (before they glaze over) they'll never seat properly. Also, you'll probably have to do quite a bit of fiddling with the bias adjustment before you're totally happy with the brakes. I'm at about 66% front/33% rear right now and pretty satisfied (Maurice said that's about right).

Keep in mind those are racing pads and designed to be hot all the time. They don't stop properly unless they are hot. They'll never feel like the street brakes you're used to, and take quite a bit of leg for quick stops.

Clay

Unique 9299, 427FE side oiler, top-loader (close), 3.31 rear

Annapolis, MD

Poorboy
January 3rd, 2004, 03:22 AM
Phil,

You should be able to open one of the rear bleeders to release the line lock.

Poorboy

Okiesnake
January 3rd, 2004, 05:12 AM
On my car I sometimes have to pull up on the line-lock button at the same time pressing frimly on the brake pedal but I have never had it not release that way. I suppose if you have a little air in the lines it might not release at all. If all else fails, Poorboy's recomendation sounds like a good idea.

Eric Miller
January 3rd, 2004, 05:41 AM
Same as what Okiesnake said.One time it was hard to get it to release.I wouldn't trust it to hold either.Always leave it in gear and I also use a wheel block at times.
Eric

pgermond
January 3rd, 2004, 07:30 AM
Poorboy,

After standing in the drive way for 10 minutes scratching my head, that's exactly what I did (jacked it up and broke loose the rear bleed valve). But that ain't gonna work for the CHP or the brake inspection. Did I get a bad valve, or? I have to correct this problem to get everything signed off.

Phil

427 Roadster, #4279436
Southern Automotive FE
3:31 and Toploader

Roseville (N.Cal)

Tony Radford
January 3rd, 2004, 08:43 AM
I had the same thing happen to me. All you have to do is loosen the fitting on the rear side of the switch. If you just break it loose, it will release before any fluid is released. It's a lot easier than getting under the car. Alan gave me that technique.

427SC, Torch Red / white stripes
427 Windsor Stroker from Southern Automotive
Delicious example of Beauty + Power.

pgermond
January 3rd, 2004, 08:49 AM
Thanks, Tony. But I don't think the brake inspector expects to see me release the brake with an open end wrench [8] Although I do appreciate the tip for the future.... it's a real pain having to jack the car up to release the brake [B)]

Phil

427 Roadster, #4279436
Southern Automotive FE
3:31 and Toploader

Roseville (N.Cal)

clayfoushee
January 3rd, 2004, 11:40 AM
As I said before, my line-lock never engages at all any more (button stuck down), no matter how many times the brakes are bled, so I no longer have to worry about it not releasing. Thank goodness, I have an historic title designation and plates in a state where such cars are exempt from both safety and emissions inspections.

Having wheel chocks in the car with you at all times is a good idea.

Clay

Unique 9299, 427FE side oiler, top-loader (close), 3.31 rear

Annapolis, MD

pgermond
January 3rd, 2004, 12:08 PM
Clay,

Well, it's almost like an airplane (w/o wings), so maybe the chocks aren't a bad idea :D

Phil

427 Roadster, #4279436
Southern Automotive FE
3:31 and Toploader

Roseville (N.Cal)

clayfoushee
January 3rd, 2004, 01:23 PM
Yep...with a BB, it's about the same high-G feel on the takeoff roll, just don't try to rotate! And, keep the wheel chocks in the trunk, always, unless you can engineer a cable release emergency brake for our cars Alan and Maurice....are you listening?.....LOL.

I do live on the "right" coast, and maybe it is the right coast given all I'm hearing from CA lately about keeping these cars on the road.

Clay

Unique 9299, 427FE side oiler, top-loader (close), 3.31 rear

Annapolis, MD

pgermond
January 3rd, 2004, 01:33 PM
Clay,

I've lived in CA all my life, and while we certainly don't always make the right moves... the weather is great :D the SPCN / SB100 process ain't the best, but it has been blown way out of proportion and it's the best we have, so I’ll live with it. People out here will bitch about anything and everything. Take it with a grain of salt. Personally, I fell in love with Kentucky and Ohio when my daughter was at Miami of Ohio, and would move in a heartbeat, if it wasn't so damn cold in the winter and humid in the summer. But considering the state of this State, maybe the cold and heat aren't so bad afterall [?]


Phil

427 Roadster, #4279436
Southern Automotive FE
3:31 and Toploader

Roseville (N.Cal)

clayfoushee
January 3rd, 2004, 01:52 PM
Phil,

I know....lived there for 10 years and loved the weather, but it was a little boring after one perfect day after another. As I told you before, I'm contemplating moving back at some point. It is a great state, just a little too on the cutting edge of new regulations to protect us from ourselves. And, I'm a life-long registered Dem......go figure!

Clay

Unique 9299, 427FE side oiler, top-loader (close), 3.31 rear

Annapolis, MD

pgermond
January 3rd, 2004, 02:06 PM
Damn, Clay- isn't it past your bedtime? It's 10 PM here - that means it's 1:00 AM there. Are the football games still on TV?

A Dem? We should trade spots! :D

Have a good Sunday - back to five days a week from 6:30 AM - 6:00 PM on Monday :(


Phil

427 Roadster, #4279436
Southern Automotive FE
3:31 and Toploader

Roseville (N.Cal)

GeorgiaSnake
January 3rd, 2004, 08:15 PM
Don't know what I did - but my line lock works great - go figure:)

Randy

Unique 289 FIA
Southern Automotive 396
Team III 16's
Brilliant Silver

eliminator
January 4th, 2004, 12:22 AM
You know guy's I just don't have aproblem at all. My emergency brake works just fine, will lock up the rear wheels if your coasting along at 20 MPH. I have to ask all you folks that don't have one, WHY???? I am not a line lock fan on any road car. Glad I opted for the emergency brake option. I have designed all the Unique Hardware where they will not be using line locks in the near future. All cars will have an emergency brake that work off the original JAG rear brake calipers. So anyone that is in the early build stage or the order stage, forget that damn line lock.

Eliminator

Okiesnake
January 4th, 2004, 03:34 AM
Phil, I think it may be possible that you have a small air bubble between the master cylinder and the line lock. When you go to release the lock, the bubble is compressing and as a result, there is not enough hydraulic pressure left to release the line lock. I would again make sure all connections are tight and then re-bleed out all the potential air in the line. It seemed like forever before every last bit of air was bled out of mine.

clayfoushee
January 4th, 2004, 06:16 AM
Eliminator,

You mentioned an emergency brake that will work off the Jag rear brake calipers......now that's something I'd love to have immediately. I absolutely hate that line lock, and no matter how much I fool with it, it works one time and then not the next. As I said in an earlier post, I've just given up on it. Those of you that have working ones now, just wait. At some point you probably won't.

QUESTION: How hard would it be to retrofit a real emergency brake on a completed car?

Clay

Unique 9299, 427FE side oiler, top-loader (close), 3.31 rear

Annapolis, MD

pgermond
January 4th, 2004, 07:37 AM
Okie,

I think you are right... that's the only explanation. Next weekend I'm going to try and get the front and rear aligned, and I think I'll see if they can put a pressure bleed on the front and rear (front STILL isn't up to snuff)

Thanks everyone for your comments

Phil

427 Roadster, #4279436
Southern Automotive FE
3:31 and Toploader

Roseville (N.Cal)

Poorboy
January 4th, 2004, 08:32 AM
Clay,
You will need more than just a handle. The emergency brake does not work with the stock calipers. The emergency brake has its own mechanical calipers that will have to added also. Retro fitting a true emergency brake is not impossible on a completed car. The hardest part will be the calipers, because of where they mount(the upper side of the hyd. ones). The easiest would be to remove the rear end assembly.
I am modifing an after market park brake handle to work in Uniques's car. The company that makes the handle said once we have it changed for Unique's car to send it back to them and they would produce it as modified. Unique will have the mechanical calipers available also.

Poorboy

eliminator
January 4th, 2004, 11:21 PM
Clay,
What Poorboy is saying is basically correct, "The easiest would be to remove the rear end assembly." Not true or misstated, the rear caliphers right and left would have to be removed and the emergency brake caliphers installed then you would install the caliphers back in place. It sounds and looks tougher than it is since both bolts on each calipher are safety wired. Then you need the cable and handle assembly and the hardware associated with that. This could be bolted on with the carpet in place then a leather boot would be used to cover the emergency brake assembly and spacer that is required. Unique will have all the parts to do the job. The only other dis-assembly required would be to take the passenger seat out in order to get the handle installed. With all the parts available it would be a good days work if you understood the installation. Better estimate would be 1 1/2 - 2 days.

Eliminator

clayfoushee
January 5th, 2004, 12:06 AM
Hmmm.....

Those wheel chocks work pretty well......

Clay

Unique 9299, 427FE side oiler, top-loader (close), 3.31 rear

Annapolis, MD