Oil temp gauge

[casaleenie]

Need a quick lesson on how a oil temp gauge works...
SW oil temp gauge. I see the wire from the top of the remote oil filter and it goes into the gauge... How is the temp computed or registered?
The temp gauge has never worked and need to get it up and running, so to speak....<img src=images/icon_speech_duh.gif border=0 width=23 height=15 alt=Insert Speech Icon: Duh!>

AL

[pgermond]

H-m-m-m-m, mine goes from the gauge (Autometer) into the top driver-side of my Canton oil pan. Seems to work fine (although I haven't fiddle with yet to determine the accuracy). Guess, that's not much help for your set up. Sorry

Phil

427 Roadster, #4279436
Southern Automotive FE
3:31 and Toploader

Roseville (N.Cal)

[Brent]

The sending unit is a one wire unit meaning that it recieves "ground" from whatever it is screwed into. If the remote filter is not mounted to a grounded surface or if the sending unit was heavily taped or doped on the threads it may not be getting a ground and it will not work.
Hook up a test light to 12V positive on the car and touch the ground side of the light to the remote filter housing. If it lights then touch the base of the sending unit to see if it is grounded to the remote filter mount. If it is then you can look for something else in the sending unit or the gauge itself.

Easy stuff first

Brent

[Jim Harding]

Al,

You really want to know how it works?????

The sending unit is a variable resistor that changes its value as the temperature changes.

In electrical circuits, there is a law that is known as ohm's law. Simply stated, one amp of current will flow in a circuit when one volt of 'pressure' is applied to one ohm of resistance. Current is equal the the voltage divided by the resistance. Voltage is equal to the current times the resistance. And resistance is equal to the voltage divided by the current.

The gauge on the dash is the instrument that measures the current in the circuit. The constant (or near constant) voltage is supplied by the battery. The sender changes its resistance in relation to the temperature of the oil. As the resistance changes, so does the current in the circuit, and the gauge is calibrated to indicate the temperature.

The principal is the same for the water temp and fuel gauge too.

Rather simple don't you think :-)

- Jim -

Jim Harding
La Plata, Maryland

1982 #3004
http://www.capitalareacobraclub.com/albums/album26/1aLeftside.thumb.jpg

[casaleenie]

thanks, Phil, Brent, Jim,

That gives me a starting point... While we're at it... Just because it's easy in this forum, I'm wondering what the acceptable operating temp for the oil?

AL

[Jim Harding]

Al,

I've heard it said that the oil should get at least 160 degrees inorder to 'burn' off mositure and other bad stuff that finds its way into the oil. Don't know how accurate that statement is..... just repeating what others have said.

- Jim -

Jim Harding
La Plata, Maryland

1982 #3004
http://www.capitalareacobraclub.com/albums/album26/1aLeftside.thumb.jpg

[clayfoushee]

Someone told me that the oil termperature should be roughly equivalent to the coolant temp.. The coolants registers between 150 at cruise to 190 at idle, with the fans running. I've never seen the oil temp. higher than 140.

Clay

Unique 9299, 427FE side oiler, top-loader (close), 3.31 rear

Annapolis, MD

[Brent]

Clay,

That may be true without an oil cooler. Especially one thats mounted out front the way ours are.

Brent

[clayfoushee]

Brent,

Yeah, forgot to mention the oil cooler, but I agree. I'm sure that's why the oil temp runs a bit cooler.

Clay

Unique 9299, 427FE side oiler, top-loader (close), 3.31 rear

Annapolis, MD

[Jim Harding]

Don't have a cooler in my car, and the temp probe is mounted low in the 8 qt pan. When sitting still, the oil temp will run about the same as the water temp, or anywhere from 180 to 190. Going down the road, with air moving across the pan, the temp goes down anywhere from 10 to 20 degrees lower than the water.

And where is your temp probe located? Before or after the cooler. If after it, then you probably have heated up the oil enough to cook off any water in the oil.

- Jim-

Jim Harding
La Plata, Maryland

1982 #3004
http://www.capitalareacobraclub.com/albums/album26/1aLeftside.thumb.jpg

[pgermond]

I've got an oil cooler - temp around 120-140 this time of year.

Phil

427 Roadster, #4279436
Southern Automotive FE
3:31 and Toploader

Roseville (N.Cal)

[casaleenie]

Jim,
Temp probe is located on top of filter/ Car has an oil cooler...Was advised by previous owner that the gauge never worked...

AL

[GeorgiaSnake]

Al give me an hour or so to confirm a few things and I'll give you the poop.

Randy

Unique 289 FIA
Southern Automotive 396
Team III 16's
Brilliant Silver

[Okiesnake]

I am going to add an oil thermostat. In actuality, most of our cars probably don't even need an oil cooler on the street. However, they sure look good!
An engine has an operating range where lubrication and fuel mixtures are optimum. Running with the oil too cool will allow water and fuel condensates to build up, plus oil flow will be reduced to many critical areas.
In the wintertime, I place a piece of aluminum over the oil cooler, but a thermostat is really the way to go. I think I'll go with the Mocal OT2 ( see http://www.batinc.net/thermos.htm )for $95.00.

[clayfoushee]

Trent,

Where does that oil thermostat mount. I'm feeling like I need to warm that oil up a bit. I sure as hell don't need "oil flow reduced to many critical areas" in a BB FE.

Clay

Unique 9299, 427FE side oiler, top-loader (close), 3.31 rear

Annapolis, MD

[Okiesnake]

It goes between the oil filter and the oil cooler.
http://www.uniquecobra.com/uploaded/okiesnake/WoThermo.jpg
http://www.uniquecobra.com/uploaded/okiesnake/WThermoCold.jpg
http://www.uniquecobra.com/uploaded/okiesnake/WThermoHot.jpg

[clayfoushee]

So, basically, you have to cut those braided steel hoses and put 4 new fittings on which attach to the thermostat?

Clay

Unique 9299, 427FE side oiler, top-loader (close), 3.31 rear

Annapolis, MD

[casaleenie]

You mean those $425. oil hoses????

AL

[clayfoushee]

Al, that's what I was worried about. Hopefully there are fittings that come with the unit that would allow you to take the hoses off at the oil filter and route the thermo. between the outlet and inlet hoses.

Clay

Unique 9299, 427FE side oiler, top-loader (close), 3.31 rear

Annapolis, MD

[Okiesnake]

The hoses aren't that hard to cut. BTW, Much cheaper than a 427FE side oiler!

[Okiesnake]

Does anyone what AN size hose and fittings Unique uses in their Stainless Steel Oil Cooler Lines? Did a quick search on Jegs http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=2701&prmenbr=361
http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=3982&prmenbr=361
Probably wouldn't need more than an extra 3' – less than $20 for the hose. Plus the cost of the additional 4 fittings.

[clayfoushee]

Trent, no question that it's worth it, if the "too low" 140 deg. oil temp. is really a potential risk to keeping everything in that vintage monster properly lubed. But, it sounds like everyone else with a cooler is registering about the same temp. I do know that SOs love oil everywhere, and are very finicky about being properly lubed so they don't chew themselves apart. Thus, this thread definitely got my attention.

Your schematic was conceptually very good at allowing me to quickly understand how it should be plumbed, but since the lines coming to and from the oil filter to the cooler are on opposite sides of the car.....where does the "crossfeed" line with the thermo. in the middle go? I assume there' s only one valve that opens and closes that connection, just like a coolant thermostat?

Clay

Unique 9299, 427FE side oiler, top-loader (close), 3.31 rear

Annapolis, MD

[Okiesnake]

I must admit that I have never installed an oil cooler thermostat. Hopefully the manufacturers include some kind of documentation as to correct inputs and outputs. You may have to re-rout your lines slightly.
Just did some more web searching. I would recommend you call their tech support # (203-481-9943). The Canton’s thermostat is a little more expensive @ $172.50
http://www.cantonracingproducts.com/oil_cooler_thermostats/oil_cooler_thermostats.html
I plan to also call them and ask what fittings and hose size to use with the #22-595 90° Rotating Remote Oil Filter Adapters and the #22-610 ALUMINUM REMOTE OIL FILTER MOUNT – I believe these are the same Canton models that Unique uses. http://www.cantonracingproducts.com/adapters/remote_filter.html
Canton also sells the #23-800 -10 Stainless Steel Braided hose for $ 7.50 per foot and the #23-802 -12 Stainless Steel Braided hose for $ 8.50 per foot. I don’t know yet what size hose is used. http://www.cantonracingproducts.com/plumbing/plumbing.html

[Okiesnake]

I think I may go all out and add a Accusump system as long as I adding the termostat. see http://www.accusump.com/acc_products/acc_units.html

[GeorgiaSnake]

The lines and fittings are all - 10. From what I've read the oil needs to get above 200. I'm looking into a thermostat as well. I have my cooler diconnected for the winter as the temp stays way to low and the resulting oil pressure is in the 90 psi range when cold.

Thanks for the links to the thermostats.

Randy

Unique 289 FIA
Southern Automotive 396
Team III 16's
Brilliant Silver

[pbrown]

Pegusus Auto Racing has an oil t-stat with -10 fittings. There website is http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/. The site isn't that geat, I recommend ordering a catalog.

--Patrick

[clayfoushee]

I posted this thread over on our CACC site, where there are a number of engine gurus in residence. The clear answer was yes, you should be running a thermostat to get that oil temp. up to 200 at least.....yikes!

Has anyone asked the Weavers about this? Has this ever surfaced here before?

Clay

Unique 9299, 427FE side oiler, top-loader (close), 3.31 rear

Annapolis, MD

[GeorgiaSnake]

It just makes sense that temps need to go above boiling to get moisture out.

Randy

Unique 289 FIA
Southern Automotive 396
Team III 16's
Brilliant Silver

[clayfoushee]

This reference below was supplied by a CACC member who races his Cobra and was champion of his SCCA division this season:

MOCAL thermostats are designed to prevent engine oil from flowing through the oil cooler until the desired temperature is reached. Prolonged use of engines in conditions that oil cannot reach optimum working temperatures will cause sludge formation and crankcase oil dilution, leading to excessive wear especially in the cylinder bores. Thermostats combat this by regulating oil flow to accelerate warm up. This in turn reduces drag, helping to yield optimum engine efficiency and performance.

He said by all means by-pass the cooler until you mount some type of oil thermostat, or you could just stick with the K.I.S.S. principle.


Clay

Unique 9299, 427FE side oiler, top-loader (close), 3.31 rear

Annapolis, MD

[clayfoushee]

Randy, when you disconnected your oil cooler, how did you route the lines?

Clay

Unique 9299, 427FE side oiler, top-loader (close), 3.31 rear

Annapolis, MD

[clayfoushee]

I talked to the Canton Tech people today about their oil thermostat, and spoke to a knowledgeable guy who said it would take quite a bit of plumbing re-routes to install that thermo. on our cars the way the lines are routed and the way they recommend it. The easiest way is to do it is on the front right where the hoses go in and out of the oil cooler. But that would be UGLY!

Gary Hughes (aka Silk here), another CACC member and Unique 289 FIA owner mentioned another simple, at least, temporary fix, in lieu of disconnecting and and routing the lines around the cooler. Gary said he picked up at least 20 degrees doing this on his car in cool weather.

Cardboard!

So here's my crude fix, at least for colder weather, which doesn't look bad at all. I glued two pieces of rectangular cardboard (approx 12"X4.5") and painted it black. Attached velco to the cardboard and edges of the cooler. If this works you could make up some similar pieces of sheet metal, some with holes, some without depending on temp. I think I'll experiment with this for awhile.http://www.uniquecobra.com/uploaded/clayfoushee/oilcoolershield.jpg

Clay

Unique 9299, 427FE side oiler, top-loader (close), 3.31 rear

Annapolis, MD

[Jim Harding]

quote:Originally posted by GeorgiaSnake

It just makes sense that temps need to go above boiling to get moisture out.


Not necessarily Randy..... Turn on your hot water faucet. Probably about 140 degrees right? And you can easily see the water vapor rising upward.

Oil temp is naturally highest after it has done it lubricating/cooling job and is returning to the pan. Then it gets mixed in with the cooler oil in the pan. Is it more prudent to have the oil temp probe high up in the pan, lower in the pan, or somewhere in the oil lines. What I'm getting at, is where should we be looking for this prefered oil temp? Do we want that temp to be what we put back into the block? In the above diagram, it looks like the thermostat opens at 190 degrees. To me, that would be the maximum temp that the oil should be before it is routed into the engine to begin a new 'heat' cycle. Above 190, the cooler does its thing and who knows what the temp it is after it exits the cooler.

Is everyone getting as confused as me over this subject[?][?][?]

Jim Harding
La Plata, Maryland

1982 #3004
http://www.capitalareacobraclub.com/albums/album26/1aLeftside.thumb.jpg

[Okiesnake]

http://www.uniquecobra.com/uploaded/okiesnake/Pic Before.jpg
Basic layout Before

[Okiesnake]

This is layout after

http://www.uniquecobra.com/uploaded/okiesnake/PicAfterThermo&Acc.jpg

Cost of adding just thermostat $ 147.02 (from Pegasus)
Units Part # Description Unit Cost Ext Cost
4 3271-10-000 straight AN10 $8.99 $35.96
1 1226-10AN Thermostat $93.69 $93.69
3 3270-10 Ft of SS Braided Hose $5.79 $17.37
Total to add Thermostat $147.02


Cost to add an automatic Accusump $379.02

1 1241-Cyl ACCUSUMP $177.49 $177.49
1 1245+xx Electro valve $129.99 $129.99
2 3271-10-090 9- degree AN10 $21.99 $43.98
2 10/10/3225 10AN to 10 AN $7.99 $15.98
2 3270-10 Ft of SS Braided Hose $5.79 $11.58
Total to add ACCUSUMP $379.02

To add both Thermostat & Accusump $ 526.04http://www.uniquecobra.com/uploaded/okiesnake/PicAfterThermo&Acc.jpghttp://www.uniquecobra.com/uploaded/okiesnake/AfterPic.jpg

[clayfoushee]

Yep...I'm totally confused, and I'm going to have to go with Jim Harding (above) and the rest of the CACC guys on this one. I strongly suspect that the reading we're getting off that gauge (given where the probe is placed) is not accurate at all given the laws of thermodynamics. Moreover, we're all constantly questioning the readings we're getting off SW gauges and Autometers for that matter. I do know that no matter how accurate a gauge is, correct sensor positioning means everything. That probe on the end of the oil pan drain plug is way low and extended out into the wind flow, so the temp diff. could easily be 20-60 degrees. Until I see more research, I don't think it makes any sense to spend ~$600 in parts, not to mention time on significant surgery.

I would think the Weavers would weigh in on an opinion on this one given their considerable experience. Surely, they've heard this question from their customers in the past. If they don't do it here, I'll give them a call at some point. I just hate to keep bugging them about every little thing, they've been so good, and they have better things to do than answer my constant stupid questions.

In the meantime, I'm gonna experiment with my humble little piece of cardboard and see what that gauge does, while waiting for more definitive info.

Clay

Unique 9299, 427FE side oiler, top-loader (close), 3.31 rear

Annapolis, MD

[Okiesnake]

Clay, basically you need to add a thermostat, 4 - straight AN10 connectors and some more stainless steal hose at $ 5.79 per foot. The first pic is the actual pieces that are most likely on your system now. The bottom pic is what you have now AND additional parts if you want to add a thermostat and or adding an Accusump pre-oiler. The Accusump with the electric switch will quickly kick in if oil pressure drops, like when Autocrossing and the oil pick up can't get oil. It also pre-oils the engine before starting the engine.
To also add the Accusump would be more difficult because find a good location to mount it. I forgot to add the Accusump mounting bracket. They are an additional $19.99 per set of 2. The 3 qt. Accusump unit is 16” long and 4 ¼” in diameter.
The stainless steel hoses are easy to cut. Use a dremel cutting wheel to cut just deep enough around the out perimeter to of the hose to cut the Stainless steel weaving but not all the way through the rubber. Then use either a hose cutter or utility knife to cut through the rest of the rubber. That way the ss weaving stays tight and no debris gets into the hose.

[clayfoushee]

Thanks Trent....I really appreciate the time you took to research this, but the Accusump is a different issue than the thermo. I'm just trying to understand that issue first. If the oil temp sensor is so far removed from the hot oil in the block, such that it's not registering properly, then I'm wondering why do I need the oil thermo in the first place, except in very cold weather. On those rare occasions when I'm feeling silly enough to drive in such weather (which does happen from time to time), why not just cover up the oil cooler?

Clay

Unique 9299, 427FE side oiler, top-loader (close), 3.31 rear

Annapolis, MD

[Okiesnake]

I realize that the Accusump is a separate issue, I just got carried away. I always wanted to add one and figured if I was going to re-plumb, might as well do both at the same time.
I don't believe that the temp sensor is all that inaccurate regardless of its location . Granted it would read lower if the probe were placed after the oil cooler and before returning to the engine. Even then, if the oil is so cool at the temp. sensor that it doesn’t even read, the oil is way too cool going back into the motor.
Clay, post a pic of your oil lines in the engine compartment and the remote oil filter and Remote Oil Filter Adapter.

[pbrown]

Clay,

Unless you are spending time at the track under high load conditions, there is no way you can get your oil temp to 190 while using an oil cooler. You should either use a thermostat or bypass the cooler.

--Patrick

[clayfoushee]

Trent, here's the picture...any ideas welcome.

In the meantime, I'm going to experiment with the shield over the cooler to see what kind of effect it has on the gauge. I' glassed over the cardboard, sanded it and shot it gloss black, so it's strong and looks like it belongs there.
http://www.uniquecobra.com/uploaded/clayfoushee/remoteoilfilter.jpg

Clay

Unique 9299, 427FE side oiler, top-loader (close), 3.31 rear

Annapolis, MD

[WBofTN]

I'm no engineer, but I'm still not sold on this thermostat thing.
To me your engine temp is "just that". If your water temp is 190, then
your oil (as it curculates thru your block) should be close to the same temp.
Which tells me that the oil is getting hot enough to "burn the impurities"
out of it. Plus I change my oil twice a year anyway with very few miles.
My new Dodge truck has an oil cooler - I dont see a thermostat nor am I
aware it has one and Dodge suggest 6k mile oil changes.
All that being said: I've been wrong plenty of times before and will most
likely be wrong again in the future - So I'm all ears.
WB


'93 Unique 427/351W/4sp

[Brent]

I think we are making a mountain out of a mole hill on this one.

The most crucial time in the lubrication of an engine is start up and the first few seconds of running. A oil pre heater of some sort, either a pad on the bottom of the oil pan or a temp rod plugged in proir to starting to get the oil up to operating temp. would be wise. (about 50.00) As for the oil thermostadt. I do not feel excess moisture in the oil will occur. If you feel that it does the next time you change your oil send some off to a lab for testing. We sent our oil off 2-3 times a year to diagnose alcohol dilusion. For those of you that drive your Cobra in the snow,let is sit,drive it in the snow,let it sit,drive it in the snow,etc,etc, you might think about it. Other than that??????

There are alot of Cobras out there with 10K plus miles on them that have the same cooler,lines,adapter,remote mount, etc. as we do.

As for the CC opinions, there are alot of VERY smart people in there,however,there are alot of people that want to turn their Cobras into exibition vehicles with 600 HP etc. It takes a good common sense filter to run all of the opinions through before making a decision. It also seems that other people are always willing to push you to spend your $$$$$$$$$$.

Just a thought
Brent

[clayfoushee]

Yeah, Trent's plumbing solution is certainly elegant, but I continue to wonder if the oil thermo. is necessary. One of our CACC guys, who's also a talented racer and mechanic has a CSX 4000, with a side-oiler and no thermo. He runs with a piece carbon fiber over the cooler, similar to my piece of (now fiberglassed) cardboard in the picture I posted somewhere above.

Clay

Unique 9299, 427FE side oiler, top-loader (close), 3.31 rear

Annapolis, MD

[clayfoushee]

OK guys....how about a simple diagnosis? I just bought a battery-powered laser temp gauge pretty cheap from Pep Boys. Lee Dahmer (who I mentioned previously builds Uniques under license from the Weavers), doesn't run an oil thermo. in his 428, but measures the temp. on the hose exiting the block before the oil filter. That is the only true indication of the REAL operating temp of the oil.

Rain threatening here, so I won't test it today, but let's find out what those temps really are.

Clay

Unique 9299, 427FE side oiler, top-loader (close), 3.31 rear

Annapolis, MD

[Jim Harding]

Sounds like a plan Clay..... since I'm right down the street from you, you can do me on your way down south and points west on your journey to take care of the rest of the guys on this forum................ that is your plan ..... right????? :-)

Jim Harding
La Plata, Maryland

1982 #3004
http://www.capitalareacobraclub.com/albums/album26/1aLeftside.thumb.jpg

[clayfoushee]

LOL.....well not exactly Jim, but you can borrow my gauge anytime!!!! How's your daughter doing?

Clay

Unique 9299, 427FE side oiler, top-loader (close), 3.31 rear

Annapolis, MD

[Jim Harding]

quote:Originally posted by clayfoushee

How's your daughter doing?


Clay... she went back to Georgia! That's where her 'friend' base is, and she said she had a lead on a job down there. Hope she finds something soon..... her mother worries about her baby!!!

- Jim -

Jim Harding
La Plata, Maryland

1982 #3004
http://www.capitalareacobraclub.com/albums/album26/1aLeftside.thumb.jpg

[clayfoushee]

Enjoyed meeting her.....very nice girl. I hope things work out well, and tell her to give me a shout if she wants to contact my sister-in-law in Augusta.

Clay

Unique 9299, 427FE side oiler, top-loader (close), 3.31 rear

Annapolis, MD

[Okiesnake]

WBofTN, My guess your Dodge Truck’s oil cooler it is most likely an automatic transmission fluid cooler that is often used when towing.
Will not having an oil thermostat destroy you engine, No. I agree that we should always take free advice with a big grain of salt. However, for me, when certain individuals like Bob Putnam of ERA talk, I listen. And Bob says “use a thermostat”.
If I only drove my car in the summertime, I wouldn’t be as concerned. But for me and “my world” - There are times when I get the itch and even though its only in the lower 50’s, I go out. There are other times that life gets busy and I may not drive the car in 3 weeks. There are times when I push to car hard and I worry about the G-forces not allowing oil to reach the oil pick up.
So for me and “my world” I am going to add the thermostat for piece of mind and the fact that for less than ½ of 1 percent of the cost of my car, it’s worth it. I don’t have to bother to put the oil cooler cover on and off. The thermostat upgrade doesn’t even require draining the oil and I estimate it will take no more than an hour or two to complete. (Maybe a little messy).
The Accusump - I like the idea of the pre-oiler when I fire up the motor when it has set for 3 weeks. The Accusump also insures oil pressure even under extreme hard cornering. Installation of the Accusump will be a little more challenging but I like the challenge.
Clay, If you do decide to add the oil thermostat, I would mount the thermostat in front of your remote oil filter. Disconnect the return line going into the remote adapter and shorten it and put it into the thermostat. Remove the other line to the oil cooler from the remote oil filter and hook it up to the thermostat. Re-use part of the shortened line for a hose from the thermostat to the filter. (hopefully I said that right).

[clayfoushee]

Trent, I didn't say I wasn't doing it....hey I'm great at spending more money....just that I wanted to experiment to see what the oil temps really are, and then make a decision. My laser-aimed temp. device will answer the question, definitely, once I have a chance (snow tomorrow......#$*#$*!!) to test it under normal conditions, with and without that cover. BTW, that cover with velco anchors takes about 3.5 seconds to put on and less to take off (if I could bend over faster, it would be quicker...LOL) The cardboard was free, and I had the fiberglass, epoxy and paint lying around anyway....what the heck.

Your advice and research in this and other areas have been invaluable. As I said several months ago, "when Okie speaks, I listen." I just wonder why so many, including CSX cars, don't think it's necessary? And, why are the Weavers silent on this? Maybe they just don't want to get into the business of giving people engine advice.....perhaps understandable. To me, these were questions worth pondering. Obviously, installing it isn't going to hurt anything and may offer some measure of protection under certain conditions, except of, of course, when the thermo. malfunctions and decides to NOT open during an autocross in the middle of July.

Let me clarify your suggestion if I decide to install it. When you say "return line into the remote adapter" you mean the hot oil feed hose from the block into the filter....right? So I disconnect both lines to and from the filter, and connect them to the thermostat. Then I run new lines from the thermo. to the filter. Simple enough. Maybe I don't understand, YET, which of the 4 hoses go into which of the 4 openings in the thermo or where the valve is, but wouldn't that shut off oil flow to the filter when closed?

Clay

Unique 9299, 427FE side oiler, top-loader (close), 3.31 rear

Annapolis, MD

[Okiesnake]

Clay,
Currently your oil cooling system makes one big loop (out of the engine – through the oil filter - through the oil cooler and back to the engine).
After the thermostat think of it as one small loop when its below 180 degrees (out of the engine - through the oil filter - through the thermostat and back to the engine), and a big loop when its above 180degrees (out of the engine - through the oil filter –through one of the thermostat passages -through the oil cooler, through the other one of the thermostat passages and back to the engine). As to what passage is what, would be dependent upon the manufacturer and hopefully it is documented. If it is not documented then heating up the thermostat will revel the answer.
It seams to me that most manufacturers such as Unique don't really seam to give a whole lot of input besides headers and engine mounts when it comes to motor issues. There are so many variables and they probably don't want everyone coming them as motor experts. They don't build motors. They don’t make any money on motors and have no profit in it to be everyone’s go to guys.

[clayfoushee]

Trent, thanks again for taking the time to explain. I understand perfectly well the routing of the oil system plumbing as currently configured. It's beautifully simple even with the cooler and remote filter. I was just trying to figure out the inflows and outflows of that oil thermo, and whether it requires major re-routing of the lines. The Canton people are supposed to fax me their installation instructions. I'm sure it will be perfectly clear at that point.....aren't those instructions always clear as mud.....just like the assembly manual......LOL?

Clay

Unique 9299, 427FE side oiler, top-loader (close), 3.31 rear

Annapolis, MD

[clayfoushee]

Trent, by happenstance, just after I wrote the above, I ran across this on CC:

Hi Joe:
Here is what I have. I have what is known as a "sandwhich" adaptor, which fits in between the filter and the filter housing.
The two AN lines and fittings come off of the sandwich and go to the oiler cooler.

There are two types of sandwich adaptors. One with a thermostatic switch and one without. I think you may want one with the theromostatic switch in it. It limits oil to the cooler until the oil achieves a specific temperature.

Another way of doing this is to use the non switch sandwich and run a thermostatic valve switch in-line to the cooler.

Summit has a sandwich adaptor without the thermostat on page 130 of their new Jan-Feb catalog as part number TRD-1313 for Ford V8.

In the Jegs catalog, they list Perma-Cool Remote Oil Thermostats which fit inline between the cooler and the sandwich.

I cannot find a listing for the Sandwich with the integrated thermostat at this time. Probably a call to Doug Herbert, or Jegs or Summit or Danbury Competition Engines would get you a solution. It is possible that even ERA has these in stock.

Let me know what you find out OK?


__________________
Art in CT
See My Cobra Bibliography at http://members.aol.com/necobraclub/index.htm

Total Quality Control: Do It Right The Frist Time!

More to cogitate on, but that in-line thermo. sounds a heckofalot simpler!

Clay

Unique 9299, 427FE side oiler, top-loader (close), 3.31 rear

Annapolis, MD

[Okiesnake]

I saw that post too. I'm not sure how well the thermostat sandwich adaptor would fit on the Unique 427SC, at least with a 351W. There is so liitle room where the filter goes and the frame. You can have a real short filter (I believe Unique gives the part# in the assembly manual)and maybe there is also enough room for the thermostat sandwich adaptor. However, there is definately NOT enough room for a full size filter or a large performance filter such as the Motocraft FL-HP (even without the thermostat sandwich adaptor). Is there more room for the filter on a BB?

[clayfoushee]

Doubt it Trent.....same filter you're running, forget about the sandwich, with integrated thermo. I was more interested in the "in-line" thermo. which sounded to me like a simple (one line in and one line out ) valve which fits between the sandwich and the outflow line to the cooler. Perhaps it's the same thing you're looking at. If so, "never mind." Will try to track it down tomorrow.

Spending way too much time on this, but fortunately I'm still on vacation, so I'm doing this instead of lying on the beach somewhere....am I demented or what?

Clay

Unique 9299, 427FE side oiler, top-loader (close), 3.31 rear

Annapolis, MD

[Okiesnake]

Clay,
So were you thinking about running the integrated thermo sandwich plate at the remote oil filter? That would work! First just route the oil lines, bypassing the oil cooler, (out of the motor - to the remote oil filter - back to the motor). Then screw on the integrated thermo sandwich plate, hook up the oil cooler lines to the integrated thermo sandwich plate! How much is the integrated thermo sandwich plate?
Let's not bring up the demented thing up again. I'm afraid it hits a little too close to home for me!

[clayfoushee]

Trent, no, actually the opposite. I said "forget about the sandwich adaptor," never seen it, and the CC poster I pasted in my note didn't know where to find it either. I was looking for an easier in-line alternative. Never mind.....gonna check those temps with my cover and worry about it later......

Clay

Unique 9299, 427FE side oiler, top-loader (close), 3.31 rear

Annapolis, MD